Replacing front hubs 91 grand prix

Before I replace both of the front hubs, is there any special tools needed or secrets to make the job easier. Im a diy'er and I feel like its something I can handle. The hardest thing from what I looked at this afternoon on the car was gonna be removing the bolts from the backside that holds the hubs on and maybe installing the new studbolts on the new hub. It doesnt appear to have much clearance to install the new stud bolts or was I just not seeing things properly? Other than that, I think Im ready for the task. I have all the tools necessary to get all the way to the hub and remove the drive axle. Anyone have any pointers other than to the questions I have? Thanks.

Before I replace both of the front hubs, is there any special tools needed or secrets to make the job easier. Im a diy'er and I feel like its something I can handle. The hardest thing from what I looked at this afternoon on the car was gonna be removing the bolts from the backside that holds the hubs on and maybe installing the new studbolts on the new hub. It doesnt appear to have much clearance to install the new stud bolts or was I just not seeing things properly? Other than that, I think Im ready for the task. I have all the tools necessary to get all the way to the hub and remove the drive axle. Anyone have any pointers other than to the questions I have? Thanks.

Sorry, I can't give you any tips. I had my left front done by the dealer for $350, parts and all, about 3 years ago because it was singing a tune I didn't like. Keep us posted. Might have to do the right some day.

I just posted a stalling problem question too, in a reply to another '91 owner who started the thread. Perhaps you've come across this wierd thing.

Good luck!

Before I replace both of the front hubs, is there any special tools needed or secrets to make the job easier. Im a diy'er and I feel like its something I can handle. The hardest thing from what I looked at this afternoon on the car was gonna be removing the bolts from the backside that holds the hubs on and maybe installing the new studbolts on the new hub. It doesnt appear to have much clearance to install the new stud bolts or was I just not seeing things properly? Other than that, I think Im ready for the task. I have all the tools necessary to get all the way to the hub and remove the drive axle. Anyone have any pointers other than to the questions I have? Thanks.
Check the repair guides on autozone.com/repairinfo.

use a good torque wrench and torque everything to spec, and do not use an impact wrench to install the new hub. The hammering action of an impact can put small dents in the bearing race causing premature failure. Follow the torques spec included with the new hub if it differs from the repair manual, as changes in hub designs can necessitate a new torque spec.

Thanks for the help guys. I changed the hub assembly this morning and all went well. Took about an hour and that horrid sound is finally gone! Wife says the next project is to replace the rear struts if its a DIY job. They have been making a little rattle sound recently and have also started settling an inch or so when the car comes to a stop. Please tell me its not too hard of a job, I want to get that done and then take out the instrument cluster and have my father in law fix the well know sauder problem and the car will be in good shape for a while.:grinyes: (I hope)

Actually replacing the struts isn't difficult, but you will need an alignment when you're done. Those cars require a 4-wheel alignment, and replacing the rear struts will mis-align it.

I will start a new topic if no one answers my question. I have had constant humming noise 3 days now on my 2001 GT with 73K miles (related to speed but not RPM). I read up on all the posts on humming noise and the problem is likely wheel bearing or transmission...

Yesterday when I did my oil change, I removed my front wheel and rotor to see if replaceing the wheel bearing is too difficult for me (before I go out buy the $200 hub assembly). Well, everything should be easy and with my 1/2'-drive 13MM socket and 2-inch extension and my 15-inch breaker bar, the bottom 2 13MM nuts came off without any trouble. However, I can't get my socket/entension to the top 13MM nut. The strut is in my way as I don't have enough room to slip my extenstion or breaker bar. I know if I remove the strut, I will be OK. I really don't want to remove the strut if I don't need to.

So for anyone who have replaced front hub assembly, do you have to remove your strut? Yesterday I did not remove the 36mm axle nut as I don't have axle socket. Will removing the axle and push the axle make the top nut accessible?

I am still not 100% convinced I have a wheel bearing problem and all of my local and online stores want $200+ for Timken or BCA wheel hub (2001 with plastic clip). Richtazz, how much is GM one with shipping to 01752?

Thanks,

I got my hubs from Rich and replaced both at the same time. My car had an extremely loud whining roar in the front end and replacing the hubs did the trick. I broke two 15mm sockets and one 13 and a universal getting everything off. A 36mm axle socket is about $10. It is a pain getting to the 13mm bolts but a universal may help.

The best description of my humming noise is from wife that it sounds like "motocycle". Not the Harley Davidson heavy sound. It is more of the quiet sound of a japanese motorcycle. If you can picture a japanese-motorcycle from a distance in front of your car. Except the sound is coming from under the hood.

I am not conclusive that the sound is from my front driver wheel hub. I think it is louder from the driver side of the engine. But if I roll down the window, the sound is less because of the wind noise. Because my driver-side wheel has had a slight play, replacing the hub is not a bad idea.

So far based on my excise yesterday, getting the 2 15mm caliper/bracket bolts, the 36mm axle nut, or the 2 bottom 13mm hub bolts are very easy. The top one has a bad angle. I tried the universal joint but it is like my son's snake toy and I could keep the whole thing stable...

BTW, does the GM hub from Rich come with 3 new 13mm bolts? Also did you use a hub puller? If so, any particular size I should get.

I did PM Rich on price quote for 01 hub with plastic clip...

I did PM Rich on price quote for 01 hub with plastic clip...

The hubs from Rich does come with new bolts with thread locker already on. I just used a 3 jaw puller to pull the hub off the axle.

Well, all was good with the hub replacement for a few days. Im not sure if its related but a few days after replacing the hub I now have a LOUD popping noise when backing up and turning the wheel hard left and sometimes it will do it if the wheel is turned left at a slow speed (5-10mph) and I hit a dip like when I leave my gravel driveway and it changes over to pavement. My thoughts are that

A - I may not have gotten the axle splines in exactly the right place in the hub and it has put the cv axle in a bind maybe? Is this possible?

B - I have an issue with the steering joint where the rack and pinion ties to the wheel to turn it.

C - maybe its a coincidence and the cv axle is going out and needs replacing.

D - Could it be something to do with a strut mount? Ive heard people on here complain of a popping noise from these on the forums.

E - I bought a cheap hub and I need to exchange it while its under warranty.


I have already pulled the wheel back off the car and made sure all the bolts were tight, the nut holding the shaft in is tight, and everything to do with the braking system is tight. The lugs were tight also. We also moved the steering wheel back and forth a small amount and I didnt notice any play in the steering joint close to the wheel but would it make a diffeence if the wheel were on the ground with weight on it? I will stop here and see what you guys think so far and maybe the weather will hold out this weekend so I can try some of your ideas. Thanks!

Did you tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench to Spec? You can't just tighten it up, you have to torque it down to a specific torque value to properly pre-load the bearing. Failure to do so will allow lateral play in the bearing that will cause a popping noise like you describe.

I sure didnt torque it. I just used a half inch drive pull handle and tightened it all I could by hand. What torque value should it have? I can borrow a quality one from my boss and check it to see.

I used an inexpensive $20 1/2-drive torque wrench that I bought at Advanced Auto. It max out at 150f-lb and it is good enough.

On my 01 GT, there is no washer behind the 36mm axle nut (my instruction does indicate a washer). Do you have a washer on your car?

When you removed your old hub, did you use a puller and just hammered the axle out? The guy at Autozone told me that most mechanics use brass (not iron) hammer to pound the axle out. I used a 3-jar puller per wlkjr's advise.