I have the right haynes manual but my caravan doesn't have the tensioner assy as shown. there is no square hole for prybar as my '88 had and I don't see an easy way to get it off/install new one. I tried torqueing tension pulley nut clock wise as described for 3.3L but it didn't move. Any help?

Not sure this shows you anything different but here ya go: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/10/b6/be/0900823d8010b6be.jsp Scroll to bottom for the 3.3 Ltr

I have changed the drive belt several times on my 96 GC 3.8 ltr. Should be the same as the 3.3. The tensioner has a 15 mm bolt head and not a hole. Sears has a $30 kit just for drive belts that is really just a piece of long bar stock with a handle and a socket peg on the other end. Comes with shorty sockets that let you get between the tensioner and the fender. Works great.

As you pry down on the bar the tensioner pully should move down and relieve tension on the belt. Even if the tensioner was stuck in position you should be able to get enough force on it to move it down. I had to change the tensioner once because it was stuck in postion and not automatically adjusting. It would however, move when I pryed it down.

If you really had to you might be able to loosen the alternator and get it off that way.

I managed to change belt last sunday. The autozone article helped. I have the 3.3L tensioner on my 3.0! It was sticky/stubborn but did move with longer extention pipe on wrench. My old belt had lots of cracks across ribs but nothing ripped out, still good per book but I changed it any way, I've put 60k on this car, it's probably the orig. belt.

Thanks for coming back and posting the outcome. Don't know how you wound up with a non spec tensioner but, next time you change the belt you may want to consider getting the correct one. By then it will probably be time to change it anyway. Never hurts to change a belt with that many miles regardless of it's appearance. Good move. Glad to hear you persevered and overcame. Cheers.