multiple problems!

whats up forum. Well to start i joined this forum a little over 2 weeks ago with a fuel resistor problem the mechanic that i brought it to told me he tightened up the wires on the resistor and that i was good to go. I replaced the purge solenoid because i kept getting P0441 code.
so here i am today and the car keeps dying after it gets hot, when i let cool down for a 30 mins or so it starts right up and I can drive for about 15 mins and then the car dies out. I brought it to a new mechanic was told that i need a new fuel pump. I had the fuel pump replaced in august 2004.
I ordered the fuel pump resistor kit from ZZP so hopefully after this new fuel pump and the resistor is replaced I hope that i dont have anymore problems.
Im doing the fuel resistor myself.
The reason I posted this thread is because it seems like a chain reaction after I get everything fixed.
After all this is done should I have the starter or crankshaft or ignition switches checked or replaced??? Whats next???

anyone???

Did you ever get the fuel pressure tested?

i checked where the fuel injection was yesterday, there was gas being sent to the engine. I just cannot determine if this is going to be a persistant electrical problem for however long i have this car. even if the fuel resistor is replaced, ya know.

Im sorry bob i didnt answer your question. I myself havent checked the fuel pressure other than at the fuel injection line. My car is in the shop now and I told the mechanic to replace the fuel pump if that was the problem.

i checked where the fuel injection was yesterday, there was gas being sent to the engine. I just cannot determine if this is going to be a persistant electrical problem for however long i have this car. even if the fuel resistor is replaced, ya know.

While you are waiting for the fuel pump resistor for the fuel pump speed relay it wouldn't hurt to test the actual fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail. There is a Schrader valve where you can hookup an automotive fuel pressure gauge. This way you can verify whether fuel pressure is in specs. Normally around 48 - 55 psi depending on method of testing. This will check the fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

What other symptoms do you have when the car stalls? Any idiot lights on, SES light, what does the tach do right at the time of stall?

the car starts and i drive for a while say about 30 mins or so and then the car dies out and says check gauges, then when i go to start it, it doesnt kick over and the battery light oil light come on and go off and it doesnt start at all. the service engine light hasnt come on since i replaced the purge solenoid and had the DTC cleared, that was the other day on tuesday. sure enough all this happened yesterday.

the car starts and i drive for a while say about 30 mins or so and then the car dies out and says check gauges, then when i go to start it, it doesnt kick over and the battery light oil light come on and go off and it doesnt start at all. the service engine light hasnt come on since i replaced the purge solenoid and had the DTC cleared, that was the other day on tuesday. sure enough all this happened yesterday.

Yeah that doesn't sound good Joey. Based on the symptoms I'd rule out the crank position sensor. So when it stalls you're not getting any engine cranking even though the battery appears to be good. Last GP I worked with a similar problem was a '98 GTP in the local club. After troubleshooting the ignition circuits I found a bad ignition switch and harness assembly. Not good news but it should give you an idea since you weren't confident that all of your problems would be resolved.

bob should i have the ignition switch and harness assembly replaced after the fuel pump and resistor are fixed? To be honest with you I love this car way too much and invested way to much money to even think of getting rid of her!!! I will never trade this car in or get rid of it. I probably will have other cars but im still keeping this 1 for the rest of my life. Just for sentimental reasons!!!

bob should i have the ignition switch and harness assembly replaced after the fuel pump and resistor are fixed? To be honest with you I love this car way too much and invested way to much money to even think of getting rid of her!!! I will never trade this car in or get rid of it. I probably will have other cars but im still keeping this 1 for the rest of my life. Just for sentimental reasons!!!

Based on having a '97 model I would. The ignition switch is a common problem when our poor cars age. The contacts get arced out or burned which causes high resistance (voltage drop). Many of the relays won't energize as a result. It won't get any better. Just make sure you get a good deal on the part to include labor and don't get ripped off knowing you live in the Big Apple. BTW - It can be done DIY but it can be pretty tedious replacing it. I have the procedure posted all over the place. Good luck!

BTW - I replaced mine over 3 years ago when the DIC started acting up.

thanks bob. Ill order the parts today and search the forum for the post. Thanks for being patient with me, your awesome. btw did you ever read the reply i left you in the P0441 thread??? take care.

thanks bob. Ill order the parts today and search the forum for the post. Thanks for being patient with me, your awesome. btw did you ever read the reply i left you in the P0441 thread??? take care.

Yes I did. Thanks a bunch. :bigthumb:

Just in case you decide to DIY and so you know whats in store here is the R&R procedure:

BEFORE BEGINING THIS REPAIR REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS.

Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back slightly with a small screwdriver. One from an electronics tool set will work. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.

Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the cover.

Remove the two screws that hold the top steering column cover in place.

Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. You will see with your mirror near the back end of the cylinder housing a small hole. Stick a small allen wrench in the hole, this will release the key cylinder so that it can be pulled out. Once the key cylinder is removed the column top cover is free to be removed.

The black box below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using your mirror you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.

Remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it.

Undo the two screws holding the ignition switch.

Undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing the bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it.

There is a black wiring plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch plug that need to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward.

Cut any tywraps holding the wire harness in place and feed it out of the dash.

To install do the reverse of the above, and tywrap the new harness into place. Be sure to properly align the key cylinder when replacing it in the housing and if the key will not come out of the cylinder there is a silver key release button at the bottom of the white device in front of the ignition switch. Press it and the key will come out. Also when replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part on the steering column that fits in the slot.

The AC-Delco part number for the ignition switch/harness is D1491D (GM#26068757). Dealer retail is $123.10. I work at an AC-Delco distributor in Flint, MI and could sell it to you for $61.55 if you can't find one locally. PM me with your Zip Code for a shipping quote if you're interested.

My son's G.P. had the same symptoms, dying out after it heats up wait 15 min. start. I found 3 broken wires on the harness were it attaches to satablizer bar (on passange side), the under side is sharp and wore through the wires.