Clunking noises - power steering rack?

I've been getting progressively worse clunking noises when I turn my wheel left or right for the past couple of weeks. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the firewall (which makes us suspect it's the power steering).

Additionally, the other night coming home from work my ABS light, Low Trac Light (I have a DIC), and Check Tire Press light all came on & wouldn't shut off.

I haven't gone to AutoZone for a diagnostic reading yet - when I do, I'll post any error codes here. In the meantime, my main questions are:

-Does this sound like rack & pinion to you, or something else?

-Is a rack & pinion full unit replacement a possible DIY job, with a couple experienced gearheads and a plethora of tools?


Thanks in advance for any comments.

Thjis does not sound like a rack and pinion issue. It sounds more like you have a problem with either the control arm bushings or the axle shafts. The trac off light, abs and etc are probably caused by a bad ABS sensor. It is doubtful that the guys at Autozone can scan it for you due to the fact that you need and ABS compatable scanner to do this type of scan. If you have a rack and pinion issue you should feel tight steering or a large amount of noise when turning. Sometimes the rack and pinion will refuse to go one way or the other. I would also check the tie rod ends to make sure they are not bad.

Since I get clunking EITHER way when turning the wheel, if I put the front end on jack stands and had someone looking at each wheel, maybe I could pinpoint which bushing or rod that's giving me the noise?

Did you have your wheel bearing hub replaced?? Sometimes it's a cheap wheel hub causes that kind of noice. That was an issue with my car.

I had a 1989 Grand Prix and started to get a clunk when turning the wheel and it turned out to be a loose bolt on the cradle assembly. You have 4 bolts that hold the cradle to the bottom of the car. Just a thought if all else fails.

Dave

Well, we took a look at the front end while turning back and forth in the driveway, and there's definitely a shudder in the front passenger wheel, accompanied by a clunk. My father thinks it's that tie rod end, and I hope he's right.

just curious,.....did you find out what it is?
i've had a broken sway bar, missing bushing replaced, missing bolt from subframe replaced, bolt tightened on the cradle, (loose from the factory), new strut plates, and i'm having the same kind of problem but nothing yet has fixed it. this includes several alignments and new tires.

I've got a slight clunk/pop in my steering system (97 GP SE) and I haven't spent the time to track it down, but I've done some research to see where GP owners commonly have loose steering issues.

It sounds like there was an issue with the yoke at the pinion getting loose and creating noise since the joint was dry. I believe there was a TSB and it included getting a tube of grease at the GM dealer and greasing that joint.

As far as tie-rods go, you can simply check those by turning on the ignition so you can turn the wheel (don't start the car) and having someone look at the tie-rod as you work the steering wheel back and forth. If the tie-rod moves before the knuckle it's attached to moves, then the ball joint in the tie-rod is wearing out.

To check ball joints, slightly jack the car up so you can slip a crowbar under the tire and then push down on the crowbar to pry up on the tire. If you feel popping/excessive movement, then the ball joints are going out.

I've got a slight clunk/pop in my steering system (97 GP SE) and I haven't spent the time to track it down, but I've done some research to see where GP owners commonly have loose steering issues.

It sounds like there was an issue with the yoke at the pinion getting loose and creating noise since the joint was dry. I believe there was a TSB and it included getting a tube of grease at the GM dealer and greasing that joint.


On the Intermediate Steering Shaft noise, there are two GM TSBs out on the problem.

Here is a synopsis of the first GM TSB. It affected primarily 2001 - 2002 Chevy Monte Carlos and other GM vehicles to include other "W" bodies such as the Regal and Grand Prix which could be prone to a similar problem.

A clunk type noise from the front of the vehicle during a turning manuver - sometimes also felt through the steering wheel when the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop when the vehicle isn't moving - may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft. This results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise (TSB 01-02-32-001B, July 2002)

A GM dealer should have a kit, GM #26098237. This kit contains instructions, a syringe of lube, and a rubber cork/stopper to plug yoke end of shaft when forcing lube into splines. Cost is approximately $12. A GM Kent-Moore tool to keep the steering column locked, as stated in the TSB is normally required but not necessary. Doing this repair could damage wiring on SIR coil, if wheel is turned excessively with ISS removed. GM's original TSB listed the lube kit as a fix, but the latest TSB calls for ISS (intermediate steering shaft) replacement.

TSB 01-02-32-001C - Sept 2003

Calls for ISS replacement.

Well I replaced the front passenger tie-rod, and was 1/16th of an inch off, when measuring between the tires, so I got through it without messing up the alignment.

The clunking & noises are gone - steering's solid again.


I am still getting "Low Track" and "ABS" lights after about 30-60 mins of driving. Excess heat knocking out a semi-faulty sensor, perhaps?

I am still getting "Low Track" and "ABS" lights after about 30-60 mins of driving. Excess heat knocking out a semi-faulty sensor, perhaps?

If you suspect you have a flaky wheel sensor electrically and its not a mechanical fault such as the sensor pickup mechanism try running a static resistance test on it. Go across the two wheel sensor contacts hub side at the electrical plug with a multimeter. You'll get around 1K ohms. Also, check the condition of the wiring along the control arm and at the connector.

Even if the wheel sensor fails the resistance check you'll still need a hub/bearing assembly.

Your ABS/Trac-off light is most likely a hub bearing going bad, as the abs wheel speed sensor is part of the hub.

Well if I got a bearing going, it will begin to worsen to the point where I feel vibration and hear some noise - right now it's all right, so that's a future expense for me.