slow window drag.

I've spent the better part of the day wrestling with my windows. (Cleaning / greasing / putting back on the tracks.) I, once again, have a functional passenger window, but they are still slow. After messing with them quite a lot, I have came to the conclusion that the motor is fine, but the rubber seal where the window pops out of the door is dragging so much that the motor is working overtime to get it up. Is there anything that can be done to treat the rubber for it to cause less friction?

i know exactly what your going through. my rubber gaskets were cut down though to allow the window to move freely and i regret doing that. now i can hear wind coming up through the door when im on the highway, hahaha.

Actually would anyone happen to have any pics of how to take the window off the track and how to remove the motor??? pics would be more helpful being as how i am more of a visual learner, if not its alright, i just need to know how to get the glass off the track so i can grease up the tracking to make sure the motor really is shot on the back passenger window. i want to do this myself to save some $$ i hope its not too much of a P.I.T.A. thanks in advance!

This is just me speaking from my experience over the weekend... So take it for what its worth.

My passenger window was very hit and miss for a few years. It would work for a month then quit for 3 months... This last time, it had not worked for at least six months.

When I took the door apart, I put the key in the ignition, turned to on then hit the switch. I could hear the motor trying to work, so that gave me some hope. I inspected the whole thing to see if it was off the tracks or what the deal was. Turns out it had just wedged itself stuck by going all the way up then pushing back down on the track once the window had reached the top of the door. I had to take the track loose to break the window loose.

Once I had it carefully going up and down (with the tracks loose) I just greased the heck out of the tracks and repeatedly ran it up and down. After about 20 rotations, I was satisfied that it was properly lubed. It's now working good as new.

I say all that... to say this... I do not recommend taking the actual window loose from the track. That would have made my job 10 times harder and I would have not been able to grease the tracks any better than simply running the window up and down.

Hope this helps. Also, be sure the glass stays in the felt tracks on the front and back of the door. Mine popped out and that became the most frustrating part of the whole project.

yeah the same is happening with mine, when i go to push the switch, i can hear the motor making a clicking sound and the lights dim a little when i push the buttion too, so i know its getting power, ill definetly check that out though. thanks

I work for an auto glass company so i do this everyday. 3M makes a silicone spray for mouldings. I would suggest the dry type less mess. They make a wet type but it will leave a slime on the window.This spray conditions the moulding while lubing it up. Make sure the window is in the tracks in the front and back sometimes it wil pinch it and will seem to be in the track but will fall between the moulding and the metal frame binding it up. Also even though the motor seem to be running it may be getting week and may eventualy go out. Hope this helps some.

would you happen to know the exact name of the dry type silicone spray so i can look for it in stores?

Go onto 3M website. It is called silicon spray. You would want the dry type. We get ours from our warehouse so not sure were you could buy it i am sure they would show you on that website.It will help alot.