How hard is to replace the front end pinion and carrier bearings? I don't have speacialty tools.

I'm getting a growling noise and a hard pull to the right, which only occurs after driving at 60MPH or higher for 10 or 15 minutes. The growling and pull to the right is a on and off pulse that occurs 1 per second or so. There is also a drag associated with it. The drag and growl become constant if you let off the gas. I replaced the right side front wheel bearing assembly with no change. The left side front wheel bearing assembly had been replaced at the shop already, but could be suspect as the problem started 4 or 5 months after that. The rear end (differential out to and including the wheel hubs) was swapped out with a used one. This had an improvement, but the problem is still there.

Is swapping out the front differential carrier and pinon bearings the best bet?

If the niose started after replacing the wheel bearings, i would have the wheel bearings checked, both sides. Replacing carrier & pinion bearings are expensive Hope this helps Dale

Sounds like a caliper hanging up or something...

Had the same thing on my 97. Have a shop that does differentials do the work - NOT a dealer. Dealer wanted $1200 and three days - I had a local shop that does differential work do it - $529 and one day. I would not attempt to do the job myself. The shop has the tools and experienced mechanics that can replace the bearings and set up the gears again after the repair. If you set up the gears wrong they will howl like a banshee and will wear rapidly.

Had the same thing on my 97. Have a shop that does differentials do the work - NOT a dealer. Dealer wanted $1200 and three days - I had a local shop that does differential work do it - $529 and one day. I would not attempt to do the job myself. The shop has the tools and experienced mechanics that can replace the bearings and set up the gears again after the repair. If you set up the gears wrong they will howl like a banshee and will wear rapidly.

After re-reading your post - I would first check the brake caliper on the right side. Does your pedal pulse when applying the brakes? Is there grease on the rotor? Do your pads look good with no broken off pieces? How old are you brake lines at the caliper. Internal failure of the flex line can act like a check valve in the line, allowing pressure one way but restricting the release of pressure on return. I used to have the chronic Jeep problem with warped rotors and pulsing pedal upon brake application. I got a set of four drilled and slotted rotors off of eBay and installed them. I haven't had a brake problem in two years now.

The brake pedel doesn't pulsate when applying the brakes. There is no grease on the rotor. The pads looked good. I don't remember any broken off pieces. I might check that again though. I don't know how old the brake lines are at the caliper. They looked okay, but that would be pretty cheap to replace just to make sure.