99 rodeo v6
is this something problematic to do? any cautionary tales?
thanks
Jan.

it's always a good thing to do--every 30000 miles or so.

issues? not really. drop the trans pan, wash and wipe it clean, install new filter and gasket--reinstall pan--fill with trans fluid.

there are more detailed instructions on the FAQ's page (located at the bottom of my sig--click joe isuzu for more info.)

Thanks!!
On another note, about my previious post and problem...I just found out that to replace 2 bolts that have something to do with the heads, it is going to cost $230 or so, that includes overnight mail, but $^&K !!
ouch!
does anyone know of any extended warranty/insurance type coverage for used autos bought from owner?

just replacing 2 bolts?

you should be able to go to the local auto parts store and find a set there--maybe $30 at most.

of course--i don't know the whole situation about this. fill me in.

directory,
The mechanic and shop owner thought the same thing you did, but apparently that is not the case, they had to order these big bad bolts from isuzu and have them delivered to the nearest dealership, which is 60 miles away, shipping was included in this price.
The bolts (as I understand it in my novice non mechanics mind) are 2 of 16 that they had to take out to get to the valves, they are quite long, like 6ish inches and sort of springy, so that they can take the shaking around in there.
The body of the engine was aluminum and the bolts are steel, so the threads were rusty (he showed them to me today) so 2 of them had to be drilled out and they will have to be replaced, so that is where the hundred dollar bolts came in, they are the replacements.
ouch! We were all shocked at the price...this mechanic is not very impressed with this engine...I am not sure if anyone else could have done it better, the import guys, who would have charged me quite a bit more for this valve job, might have had more experience and known some trick, but, it evens out in what they charge comparatively.

I'm going to get the transmission flushed as soon as I get the truck back and can afford it, maybe sooner, I might charge it, after pricing a transmission today!
How long does it take for a tranny to go, once it begins slipping, does anyone know, not that this truck is slipping, a buddy of mine has a pathy and his revs (alot) before it goes into 2nd.

Does anyone in the Oklahoma area want to buy my Rodeo? Just kidding, I think :)
I haven't decided what to do, can't really afford another car payment, but I also don't know if I have the time for all of the upkeep required...maybe when I get her back, I will fall in love again and find the time.

Jan.

so, I just re-read the FAQ page and thanks to Ryan for putting that truly marvelous page together!
and I see that there is a debate of some kind about draining and replacing tranny fluids and flushing tranny...can a few of you expound on this debate, what are your thoughts on either one, pro or con???
thanks

I also saw OEM mentioned several times, what does this mean? Is it a brand or something more?

Sorry for the question, I am just a girl, who never in a million years thought she would spend this much time reading and thinking about engines....and if I were a rich girl, I can promise you, I would be at another site right now :)

What kind of oil should I be using, I saw Chevron Techron Concentrate mentioned, is that a type of oil, a brand or an oil additive? I guess I need to become closer to my friend who manages a local AutoZone!! :0) I have been trying to find him a house for years now and I heard he just bought a FSBO (for sale by owner!) :( leaving me out in the cold...so, the way I look at it, he owes me for my time :)

Also, now that my engine is half taken apart, is this a good time for my mechanic to clean the EGR valve, or is any easier to get to now as any other time, I mean, the truck is just sitting there, half naked, I think I should be doing all I can (with his help of course) to prevent any future $$$$$ issues.
and I did not have the oil filter changed at last oil change, is that any easier to do now that the heads and valves are off? what about the fuel filter, same question?

I know these are a lot of issues at once, I hope someone has the heart to advise on all of these questions. I surely do appreciate the help...maybe you can tell that I have pretty much decided to try to keep this truck in my yard for as long as possible, instead of selling her now (of course that could change if she doesn't run like she used to once she is all put back together...but then, how will I sell her?....I really think that won't happen. These things have a way of working out, at least in my life they usually do :)

thanks again!
Jan

Chevron Techron Concentrate is a gas additive to help clean fuel injectors and it helps to clean up some carbon out of the valves.

The EGR can be do at anytime. It is a 20 minute job. 2 bolts, unplug one wire pack, clean and reinstall.

so, I just re-read the FAQ page and thanks to Ryan for putting that truly marvelous page together!

yeah, we are all very appreciative of that page:1:

and I see that there is a debate of some kind about draining and replacing tranny fluids and flushing tranny...can a few of you expound on this debate, what are your thoughts on either one, pro or con???
thanks

just draining the pan will leave the metal sludge and sediment in the bottom. you really want to drop the whole pan and clean it out completely. if you don't the metal particles can flush up through the system again and would start damaging the trans. it really is a good maintainance procedure. plus--it really can't hurt...

I also saw OEM mentioned several times, what does this mean? Is it a brand or something more?

it means Original Equipment Manufacturer-- meaning the part is the same as the original equipment it would replace-that was made by the vehicle maker

Sorry for the question, I am just a girl, who never in a million years thought she would spend this much time reading and thinking about engines....and if I were a rich girl, I can promise you, I would be at another site right now :)

trust us guys..we wish more girls would take interest in their vehicles...it would save us the worry :icon16:

at the very least learn how to jump a battery and change a tire.:rolleyes:

What kind of oil should I be using, I saw Chevron Techron Concentrate mentioned, is that a type of oil, a brand or an oil additive?

i believe it's an additive. there are a ton of posts on this forum about types of oil to use. i use penzoil 10w30....but that's just me. everyone has an opinion about the oil to use...read the forum posts, you'll see what i mean:uhoh:

Also, now that my engine is half taken apart, is this a good time for my mechanic to clean the EGR valve, or is any easier to get to now as any other time,

it can be done in about 30 minutes any time you want.

I mean, the truck is just sitting there, half naked,

hey...me too...:eek7:

and I did not have the oil filter changed at last oil change, is that any easier to do now that the heads and valves are off? what about the fuel filter, same question?

you didn't get the oil filter changed???:uhoh: why not?

the fuel filter can be done a little later also..

I know these are a lot of issues at once, I hope someone has the heart to advise on all of these questions.

:icesangel :thumbsup:

let us know how it turns out. it's a bummer about the bolts...specialty parts can be expensive.

First: reply ONLY to: Rmasters3@fuse.net, otherwise I don't get them. Click Reply doesn't get me the e-mail.

I asked an Isuzu Dealer service guy today if the ATF was Dexron III, and he said to use ONLY Isuzu ATF, or "problems would shortly follow". He also indicated there was some special additive in the Isuzu fluid as the reason. A subsequent conversation with his boss told me there is a special fluid used to corrrect a shudder problem, otherwise Dexron III is what you want. Anyone have insight on this?

FWIW: I changed the ATF & replaced the transmission filter on my 2000 Rodeo, several years ago. Used a transmission additive made by Lubeguard, which I use in most of my transmissions, and have had no problems.

Still I know Honda has it's own ATF and with the Passport/Rodeo commonality I thought the Honda fluid or equivilant is shwat should be used.

Help, anyone?

it's always a good thing to do--every 30000 miles or so.

issues? not really. drop the trans pan, wash and wipe it clean, install new filter and gasket--reinstall pan--fill with trans fluid.

there are more detailed instructions on the FAQ's page (located at the bottom of my sig--click joe isuzu for more info.)

Wow! That sounds SO easy. Too bad it isn't - At least not on a 4WD.

Drop the trans pan: That includes supporting the transfer case at the rear, removing the trans/transfer case crossmember, then removing the rear transmission mount so you can reach the three trans pan bolts at the extreme rear.

http://72.19.213.157/files/4L30EPanMount.jpg

Then the cleanup, old filter removal, and assembly with the new filter. Don't forget to clean the magnet in the pan:

http://72.19.213.157/files/4L30TransPanInterior.jpg

Install new filter and gasket--reinstall pan: I'd suggest reusing the OEM pan gasket if at all possible, or purchasing another GM/Hydramatic pan gasket. The gaskets supplied with filter kits are typically cork, and will never seal as well as the original nitrile gasket. I usually throw them away and use the original when possible, since leakers are no fun.

Once you reinstall the pan, don't forget to install the trans mount, torque to 34 ft/lb, and install the six crossmember bolts. Since you had so much fun removing them (you'll see) be a nice guy and apply anti seize to the bolts before assembly. You may be the next one to deal with it.

Fill with trans fluid: This is easy enough, so long as you flip the vehicle upside-down, have an ATF pump in your shop, or use an oil suction gun. The suction gun works quite well, but remember to clean it out thoroughly before using it to pump fresh fluid in. Expect to pump in just under four quarts.

Use only Dexron III as recommended by the manual. Plan on doing this every 30K miles if you tow with the truck, or every 50K miles otherwise. I know the factory suggests 100K intervals when not towing, but that's well beyond their warranty period, too. If they even suspect you have towed, hauled, or used the vehicle in cold, hot, or dusty climates, you have no warranty.

A flush via the cooler lines is not a bad thing, but it doesn't do anything for the filter, or the debris in the pan. Ideally, draining the pan and torque converter would be best.

wow BB that sounds pretty intense. Do you have any idea what a shop would charge to do a thing like that?
Will I be safe getting that done at someplace like Walmart, or should I take the truck to a tranny shop?
My mechanic said to have it done at wallyworld for about $70 but he was talking about a flush.
appreciate your photos and the tale!
Jan.

No, no, no, no Walmart visits period for your vehicle! At least not within their maintenance shop - front parking lot is as close as you want your truck to the Walmart store.

Seriously.

The mechanic that's working on your engine should be able to assist with your transmission fluid change out. What I would do is have the pan dropped, change filter, clean magnet and THEN do the transmission flush to get the oil fluid out of the torque converter.

Forgot how many miles you have, but if you have over 100k and have never changed the filter I would absolutely do that FIRST before a transmission flush.

Walmart, Jiffy Lube, Grease Monkey, etc. are notoriously known for underfilling these transmissions causing them to overheat, big $$$$, as you've already read.

First: reply ONLY to: Rmasters3@fuse.net, otherwise I don't get them. Click Reply doesn't get me the e-mail.

I asked an Isuzu Dealer service guy today if the ATF was Dexron/Mercon, and he said to use ONLY Isuzu ATF, or "problems would shortly follow". He also indicated there was some special additive in the Isuzu fluid as the reason. A subsequent conversation with his boss told me there is a special fluid used to corrrect a shudder problem, otherwise Dexron is what you want. Anyone have insight on this?

FWIW: I changed the ATF & replaced the transmission filter on my 2000 Rodeo, several years ago. Used a transmission additive made by Lubeguard, which I use in most of my transmissions, and have had no problems.

Still I know Honda has it's own ATF and with the Passport/Rodeo commonality I thought the Honda fluid or equivilant is shwat should be used.

Help, anyone?


FWIW, the Isuzu Rodeo, Honduh Passport, and several flavors of BMW 3-Series (318i, 325s) used the General Motors Hydramatic 4L30-E transmission. The people who assembled and sold the vehicle can say whatever they want. The people who service the vehicles for the people who assembled and sold the vehicle can say whatever they want about what they believe the people who assembled and sold the vehicle might have said. Regardless, General Motors (designer, builder, and supplier of the transmissions) recommends Dexron III for it's 4L30-Es.

You can go with some mechanic's vague recollection of what he thinks he might have heard or possibly even read when skimming a factory service manual that has been translated three times, of believe the builder of the transmission.

That said, Hydramatic Division of GM also approves Mobil 1 Synthetic AT or ATF 3309, AMSOIL ATF or ATD, and Red Line Synthetic ATF in its assemblies.

Excellent pics BB! How'd the old filter look? I know the magnets get ugly, but I've never seen a trans filter get plugged with much of anything. I did a bunch of drain/fill cycles on my 4L30E when I had it. I used merc/dex3 universal from advance auto (in gallon jugs). It shifted as nice as it always did on it.

Joel

No, no, no, no Walmart visits period for your vehicle! At least not within their maintenance shop - front parking lot is as close as you want your truck to the Walmart store.

wally world is usually where i get the oil changed, not ok??



The mechanic that's working on your engine should be able to assist with your transmission fluid change out. What I would do is have the pan dropped, change filter, clean magnet and THEN do the transmission flush to get the oil fluid out of the torque converter.

they are the ones who sent me to wally world..well the owner of the car lot said they could do a flush there for about $70..he is usually turning cars over so fast he is not that worried about how long they perform though.
when you say, change the "filter", which filter exactly are you referring to??


Forgot how many miles you have, but if you have over 100k and have never changed the filter I would absolutely do that FIRST before a transmission flush.
I have about 80k miles and don't have ANY history on the truck, so I don't know what has been done, I am trying to be as proactive as possible, and still be able to afford to eat!

Walmart, Jiffy Lube, Grease Monkey, etc. are notoriously known for underfilling these transmissions causing them to overheat, big $$$$, as you've already read.

So, if my mechanic can't or doesn't want to handle it, shoud I seek the help of a tranny shop (I live in a smallish town)??

thanks for your reply and words of advice!!
Jan.

You stand a much better chance with a tranny shop, yes, just make sure it's NOT AAMCO, they like to tell customers they have problems, even when they don't.

I've been to Oklahoma more times then I can remember, I love those small southern towns, and you're right, you are limited on good service choices.

I'm guessing from your comments that you're into the Realistate business? Do you have co-workers that may have suggestions on places they go?

It's not the easiest thing owning an Import vehicle, but that transmission is a GM unit, though I admit, not one most people want to deal with. So I can't say as I blame your mechanic.

The "filter" that I was referring to is the filter in the transmission pan, it can do you wonders if you replace it at your mileage.

After putting that kind of time, money into rebuilding/fixing your engine, make SURE your mechanic does you right by installing ALL new radiator hoses - not just the upper/lower front hoses, but all of your major ones that are, I'm sure by now, showing their age. There are 8 most important ones, that I feel are more effected by age, rather then just mileage -

1 upper hose - Generally exposed to a LOT of heat, should change every 2-3yrs

1 lower hose - the upper & lower are the 2 big primary hoses you see when you 1st pop the hood.

2 Heater core hoses - passanger side up against the firewall

2 Throttle intake hoses - probably not too bad at 80k miles though, I have 155k and I'm just now changing these 2 hoses for the 1st time.

1 By-pass hose - not quite sure where your's is located on the DOHC, OR if you even have one.

1 oil cooler to block hose - mechanic should know where to find this on your engine, this was the 1st non-primary hose on mine to go.

There is another VIP hose on the sohc engine that's a 3-peice section down the center of the heads under the intake housing, but I'm not sure if you have the same set-up on the dohc engine.

P.S. I would not be having any kind of vehicle servicing done at Walmart, some have had good luck, but I've heard horror stories as well.

The Rambler is right. I'd try to avoid the "Quick Lube" or department store chain service bays as much as possible. It's not that there is no possibility of them having a competent technician, but the likelihood is lower, and the chances of them having the latest service and technical information and training are relatively slim. If you drove a Ford into WalMart for a transmission service, they dropped the pan, and found this:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/graphics/uselesspart1.jpg

...They might button it up and tell you to call a tow truck. A transmission shop or dealer service department would handle it without even mentioning it.

Your options for this particular transmission are the Isuzu dealer service department, a BMW service department, a Honduh service department, a reputable transmission shop, or yourself. If you're not in a hurry and a bit frugal, you can frequently find dealer service "specials" that offer discounts on routine maintenance services, such as this.

Replacing the filter is important. While they seldom completely plug, their effective filtration is probably spent at about 50-60,000 miles. After that, little filtration is happening, but it doesn't really have to unless a hard part is failing. The real problem is the fluid flow restriction.

So, if my mechanic can't or doesn't want to handle it, shoud I seek the help of a tranny shop (I live in a smallish town)??

thanks for your reply and words of advice!!
Jan.


a lot of mechanics/shops won't touch automatic transmissions. My mechanics, who are great, said their policy is to do no A/T work. They won't even flush them. It is best to go to a tranny shop for this. I was considering attempting to do mine, but I'm going to pass. A/T's are not the easiest things to deal with.


marc

Dexron III sounds like it's the right stuff, but how about Dexron V? Not looking for trouble, but is it appropriate to use the next "new & improved" level of Dexron (like going from engine oil rated a "D" to one rated "E")?

Dexron III sounds like it's the right stuff, but how about Dexron V? Not looking for trouble, but is it appropriate to use the next "new & improved" level of Dexron (like going from engine oil rated a "D" to one rated "E")?

Problem is, is Dexron V may not be compatible with Dextron III - of course, if you're doing a whole transmission flush, that's a different story, in terms of getting all of the old out.

Personally, I'm not sure if a transmission that calls for a certain Dextron should have ONLY that level or if you can move up. The thing is though, these 4L30-E's are picky enough as it is, I don't know if I'd personally have the guts to try.

OK, Bowtie, I give up! What is that?

Ford has used those for years on the powertrain assembly line. They mate a transmission to an engine, set it in a crate, and send it off to the assembly point. When the engine/trans is installed on the cradle and the appropriate transmission dipstick tube is inserted to fit the intended vehicle, that plug is pushed out of the fill hole and into the oil pan.

The plug is inserted at the transmission plant to seal in the oil and keep out contamination. The first person to remove the trans oil pan gets to remove it. If they aren't aware of the plug, they tend to begin to worry, since it looks like it might be something more important.

FWIW, the Isuzu Rodeo, Honduh Passport, and several flavors of BMW 3-Series (318i, 325s) used the General Motors Hydramatic 4L30-E transmission. The people who assembled and sold the vehicle can say whatever they want. The people who service the vehicles for the people who assembled and sold the vehicle can say whatever they want about what they believe the people who assembled and sold the vehicle might have said. Regardless, General Motors (designer, builder, and supplier of the transmissions) recommends Dexron III for it's 4L30-Es.

You can go with some mechanic's vague recollection of what he thinks he might have heard or possibly even read when skimming a factory service manual that has been translated three times, of believe the builder of the transmission.

That said, Hydramatic Division of GM also approves Mobil 1 Synthetic AT or ATF 3309, AMSOIL ATF or ATD, and Red Line Synthetic ATF in its assemblies.


that's good info! thanks!

Ford has used those for years on the powertrain assembly line. They mate a transmission to an engine, set it in a crate, and send it off to the assembly point. When the engine/trans is installed on the cradle and the appropriate transmission dipstick tube is inserted to fit the intended vehicle, that plug is pushed out of the fill hole and into the oil pan.

The plug is inserted at the transmission plant to seal in the oil and keep out contamination. The first person to remove the trans oil pan gets to remove it. If they aren't aware of the plug, they tend to begin to worry, since it looks like it might be something more important.


wow...how did you acquire this knowledge? it's not something everyone just knows...

by the way..wal-mart is bad