Guys I did a timing belt change, water pump and serp belt change on sunday on my wifes 1998 trooper with 3.5L. I didnt have any manual to do this but used general info pick up here and few years ago did a toyota 4 runner and figured this trooper should be similar. The truck runs very smooth but has no power. I was thinking that I possibly may have gotten the crank off a tooth or two because the truck has no get up & go and in the garage was spitting black soot out of the tail pipe. In the only directions I found to do timing belt it says to turn the crank pully clockwise to get slack into the belt while you try to fit on the belt which I did but when it was done I noticed that the two camshaft pullys and marks were lined up but the crank shaft was rotated clock wise like two teeth possibly from its mark. do you think this is why no power under acelleration??

You answered you own question my man!:iceslolan You cant move ANYTHING once that T-belt is removed. I always recommend taking a paint marker & marking the two cam sprockets and the crank sprocket with their position to the block. Your valve timing is off a few teeth. Problem is, to figure out where you are now could be a bear. Only way to make sure 100% is to remove the cam covers, find TDC of #1, line up the cams for both sides per spec (dunno what that is:banghead: ) & snap the belt back on. Lotsa work. Always mark before that belt comes off!

Joel

I know where the cams were at due to them having their marks plus I added one to the lower part of the sprocket to make sure I was staying within limits. I know where the crank was due to its mark and again I know that I rotated that clockwise about 1/4 to 1/2 turn and put the belt on. By doing so the cam marks were right on I know that and thats why I think its running so smooth. But the crank mark was advanced to the right (clockwise) a tooth or two and thats what I think is causing it to be sluggish. I believe when the piston comes up for its compression stroke the valves are already open and not allowing it to make enough compression. Again I am no certified mechanic but was curious if you guys feel the same?? By turning the crank clockwise would that cause it to be sluggish but yet run smooth & idle smooth?? Thanks for the reply. I did a toyota 4 runner a few years ago ( almost same set up) and had a cam out of time and it ran like crap so thats why I asked if the crank was out would it be smooth but sluggish? Thanks.

.. By turning the crank clockwise would that cause it to be sluggish but yet run smooth & idle smooth??

Yes. If you are off just a tooth or 2 on the crank, she'll run, but wont run 100% right. Actually, since you know the cam sprockets are perfeclty in phase with one another, you'd only have to remove one valve cover in the event of a major misalignment. You'd just have to move both sides the exact same amount. You will have to pull it apart again and realign the t-belt and sprocket markers.

Joel

Yep just got done and it runs fine. As I thought the crank was off two teeth to the clockwise position. Thank God I had the cams marked and there was a factory green mark on the crank sprocket and it lined with a green mark on the block. Thats how I knew it was off. I marked the crank this time myself too and made sure the cams were on and put the belt back on rotated it till the marks came back around and all was good. As a note I was glad I went in there because my timing belt tensioner bolt was loose somehow and actually backed out some. So I tightened that down checked all and put it together and runs like a top. Thanks for the help.:rofl::grinyes::lol::thumbsup: