brakes

The master cylinder went out on my 1989 ford thunderbird base model 3.8 liter and i replaced it and bled the brakes and now i still have no brakes and the pasenger side rear drum is sticking to the drums what is going on :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Did you replace the flex lines? Flex lines deteriorate internally and can act like one-way valves not allowing the brakes to release or blocking fluid from getting to the wheel cylinders and calipers and preventing braking.
If the lines are old (more than five years), I would replace them, properly adjust the rear brakes, then bleed the system.

For your sticking brakes, KimMG's suggestion is a good one. If you bleed that cylinder does the brake stop dragging? Remove the drum and be sure the brake hardware isn't broken (springs, retainers). This is also a good time to check the wheel cylinders for fluid leakage and brake shoe contamination. Does your brake pedal go to the floor? Did you bleed the master cylinder before you installed it? If you didn't then it can take quite awhile to bleed all the air out of the system.

Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it? Is the brake warning light on? Your proportioning valve may have crapped out.

Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it? Is the brake warning light on? Your proportioning valve may have crapped out.
yes i benched bled the master cylinder and no the brake warning light is not on

just wondering could the brake booster be going bad

Brake booster would not cause sticking brakes. What are your symptoms? Have they changed from what you posted above? Did you inspect and adjust the rear brakes? Flex lines deteriorate on the inside and show no outward signs of deterioration. They develop clogs and prevent the flow of fluid.

i still have no brake pedal and the drum is not stuck anymore adjusted the brake adjuster

It is possible that you have replaced a master cylinder with a defective master cylinder (i.e. a bad replacement part)---could be that the plunger is stuck inside the cylinder and has caused the lock up? Just a thought for you if all else is not explainable.

when i bought the master cylinder i bought the new one not a remanufactured one so idk if it could be bad or not

1.) Are the rear shoes seated properly and adjusted to where there is a slight drag when you turn the drum?
2.) New doesn't always mean good.
3.) When you pump the pedal does it get firm? After pumping the pedal, does the pedal then go to the floor without opening a bleeder? When you open a bleed screw with the brake pedal depressed, do you get a good strong stream of fluid from each wheel?
4.) When bench bleeding a master cylinder, care must be used not to push the cylinder in too far. If you push it in too far, you may blow the seals.
5.) In what order are you bleeding the brakes? You should start from the wheel that is farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest.
6.) What's idk?