Okay guys, I want your input...I'd really like to be able to use the back of my truck to hold more than my spare, my tools, and my Hi-Lift & shovel, so I've been eyeing getting a nice roof basket. I built my own roof rack floor a while back, and although I like the design, I don't have the time right now to perfect it...so...I'm thinking about getting one of the 42x50 KargoMaster racks, BUT, weight is a huge concern of mine. My truck is already kind of high, and hence, more tipsy than it used to be. I'm worried about how it would handle with a roof basket stuffed with a 100 pound Swamper, Hi-Lift, etc. up there. As such, if I do end up getting the roof basket, I'll probably want to go with the aluminum rack...anyone know the weight difference between the two of them (aluminum Kargomaster vs. steel) ???

Finally, for those of you who have them, how much (if at all) do you notice the onroad and offroad lean/cornering when you fully load the basket? I've contemplated putting all the stuff up on the roof for around town driving, and then yanking the tire back down to the cargo area when I go wheeling...

Anyway, seeking input...

p.s. I know a somewhat obvious solution is to get a rear carrier (or have my KMA altered into one), but right now I really don't want to pursue that--call me a pansy, but I like my visibility out the rear window.

Have you looked out the back window of a truck with the tire on the back? It really isn't that bad since the tire mainly blocks the area where you would have to turn your head all the way around anyway. As far as actually backing up, mine hasn't affected me at all. The only thing it does is make it hard to see small cars behind me in the rearview mirror, so I've learned to compensate with the other mirrors and a weaving down the road technique! :D

Yeah, this past weekend I drove MT's and FSRBiker's trucks for a total of about an hour (they were testing how tippy mine was), and right now I don't want the tire back there.

BTW, you think YOU have a hard time seeing small cars... :)

Gothamist, I have the 42X60" KargoMaster Steel rack that was replaced with an aluminum floor (meaning the top rails are still steel, but the entire floor is now aluminum). I can definitely say that the steel is MUCH more heavy in comparison. Don't have exact numbers since I've never weighed them, but lifting the steel floor takes a little bit of effort.

As far as leaning goes, I have never noticed. I had my steel rack up top and took it down while I was waiting for the aluminum floor to arrive (about 3 weeks) and put the new rack back on after that time. At no point, both when I put the rack on and took it off, did I notice any more lean that I had previously. I have the front swaybar connected onroad, but the rears are disconnected. Even when I put my spare up top, I don't notice any excessive leaning. Often, I have to remind myself that I have a tire up top so I can remember to check the straps to make sure the tire is still sturdy.

I think you'll be fine with an aluminum KargoMaster rack up top even with your lift.

So the aluminum rack is a lot lighter, huh...cool.

When I had my Swamper on the roof (hasn't been up there since before the lift) I could tell it was up there, but it wasn't a huge deal...did worry me a few times offroad though. I guess the rack + Hi-Lift shouldn't add more than about 60 pounds over the weight of the spare (does this number seem right to you guys) ?

Does the aluminum rack (or at least the parts you've seen) seem as sturdy as the steel one?

The KM rack that I have weighs about 40-45 lbs. so the aluminum one should definitely be lighter.

I haven't noticed any problems cornering or anything when it's been fully loaded down ... my acceleration, however, sucked. Not to mention the gas mileage ....

From the couple weeks that I've had the aluminum bottom, I haven't seen anything that would suggest that the aluminum will fall apart faster than the steel (should even outlast it since it won't rust). The cross member beams are galvanized (sp?) steel just like the steel rack, so both are supported the same. I suppose if you put something very heavy at the ends, you run the risk of bending the aluminum bars, but that better be something extremely heavy and small. If you are putting a tire up top, the tire will be supported by the cross member rail which can easily take the weight.

Philosopher is right about the gas mileage though (I haven't noticed an acceleration drop much). I think I've lost about 1 MPG since adding the roof rack.

I hear you guys on that one (remember I had my Swamper on the roof for 3 months.) I think I can live with the acceleration (it already sucks), as for the gas mileage--if I can get 16 on the highway @ 65 I'll be fine. My city mileage already sucks bigtime.

The kilimanjaro weighs 35lbs. I own one and absolutely love it. I was told by Kargomaster that the weight diff between the kili and the bushman is 30lbs.

T said his weighs about 40-45 so you figure it out. When I had it all put together, I was really impressed with it's lightness. By the way Mike, I bought mine on your recommendation. Thanks again.

Originally posted by Sc00ter
The kilimanjaro weighs 35lbs. I own one and absolutely love it. I was told by Kargomaster that the weight diff between the kili and the bushman is 30lbs.

T said his weighs about 40-45 so you figure it out. When I had it all put together, I was really impressed with it's lightness. By the way Mike, I bought mine on your recommendation. Thanks again.



Oh, so maybe mine actually weighs like 50 -55 lbs. I don't think it can be any more than that because I can lift it over my head to put it on my truck. :)

No sweat, glad I helped you out. I actually bought mine because of FSR's recommendation. :D

hey goth,

i have the kilimanjaro 42x60 rack. i can tell you that it is solidly built and very sturdy. with my hilift, shovel, ipf 960's, cb antenna, 4 gallons of water and back up light up top my X doesnt really feel top heavy at all. you will notice that it leans alittle more but not to the point of being dangerous or the point of being higher risk of rollover. rust isnt a problem with this rack either.


jason

Jason,

How did you mount the CB antenna to the roof rack? It is an NGP antenna? And how is the reception?

I need to relocate mine from the base of the roof rail mount to something with better grounding properties.

scoot

i used a kargomaster light mount. 2 in the front of the rack for my IPF's and 2 light mounts in the rear; one for my back up light and the other for the antenna. used a 3 ft firestik antenna. reception is great you just have to fold it down when going thru the thick stuff and thats where reception really suffers. antenna is stud mounted with a spring base and ez over fold down. managed to get an SWR of 1.3 across the board

I assume that is a Non Ground Plane antenna?

the light mount the antenna is mounted to is metal but the rack is aluminum. the antenna itself isnt grounded to anything but the light mount. i guess the antenna established a grounding plane with the rack but i'm not sure. with an SWR of 1.3 i think it has to be grounded somewhere.

$0.02.....



Would putting the heavy stuff INSIDE the X, and the light stuff on top work for you at all?

I do environmental work...and 4 wheel into some hairy spots carrying a lot of heavy test equipment...I try to put the heaviest stuff on the floor behind the seats, etc....anything to help me through the off camber with out needing a sunroof by the gas pedal...

So 50 lb lead acid batteries, hi-lift, spare, tools, cans, etc....go low....First aid/survival kits, tarps, ropes, clothes...go in a waterproof bag on the roof, and or on top of the heavy crap inside...

Even if its impractical for ALL of your stuff...maybe a gas can for example, the concept goes a long way towards keeping your knees away from your ears as you hang by the seat belt....


:D


- Lance.

Anytime you can lower the center of mass and gravity the better your truck will feel on an angle.