95 Riviera stalls out.

95 Riviera w/sc stalls out once in a while when slowing down or when I'm at a stop(only when its warmed up). Had it checked out but the place I took it could not read the codes so they said to take it to the dealer. When I took it to the dealer, the codes were gone and the car did not act up so they could not get any codes. I'm sure it will be back soon.Anyone have this problem and find out what it was?

My 97 without SC does it too. Dealer said nothing wrong. Changed crank sensor and temp sensor with no effect. When it gets to where it won't start right back up then maybe I'll know.If you find out please post it.

I bought my 95 SC about a year ago and after 6 months it stranded me with stalling problems. I took it to a shop who put it on a code reader and the crank sensor code came up. At that time they declined to tell me whether or not they would be confident that this sensor was indeed the problem and at no charge bowed out of fixing it. Then I took it to a higher end shop that worked on it for 3 days. They checked and tested the ignition system to no avail and then checked the wires individually for continuity and again they all passed. Luckily or unluckily, however you want to see it, the car would stall out frequently enough that they could see the problem reoccurring on short drives and continued to test it and finally they decided to due a cure all and swapped out the main computer in the car. It was a used computer and cost me $700 in the end but this seemed to clear everything up. Till last week (about 5000km later) I was driving for about 2 hrs and the car began to chug and stall again. I took it in this time and the code came up for EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). They swapped out the plugs and cleared the code and again all is well. They sighted a bad burn causing a carbon build up on this sensor.
I also experience a rough idle occassionally once the car is warmed up. I am not a mechanic but work with electronics and know how susceptible they can be to heat and I can't help but wonder if something involving either sensor/pcm housing are insuficently insulated or located poorly.

Thanks for the info. I guess the first thing I should do if I don't get a code soon is to replace the EGR sensor.Correct Seagull79? Then move on from there.

could be the torque converter lock up solenoid. it could also be the egr but it would most likely set a hard code if the egr was bad

Had the car out again this weekend and it had a couple moments of hesitation on the highway. I will be taking it back to the shop to see what the code is. The SES light has returned!! I didn't have the EGR sensor replaced they just told me that they cleared the code and to see if the problem re-occured. The only lasting fix that worked for me was the computer swapout. Unfortunatly I have yet to solve the stalling mystery.:banghead:

I was looking at another forum and a guy there was experiencing the stalling problem as well and he eventually found that he had a bad positve connection. Unfortunatly I haven't found out where he hasn't returned to the forum. He did say that this got rid of all his problems!!! I looked in the owners manual at the fuse layout and in my case I have had a Crank Sensor code, EGR sensor code and had to replace a PCM all of which are off of the fuse panel on the side of the dash??!! If something (connector) was loose and the engine compartment heats up it could worsen the connection. Un fortunatly I do not have a garage and its the dead of winter outside but I would like to investigate further. Any thoughts anyone??

95 Lesabre 3.8L. For a few month my car ran good on the road, but a few times a week while running it shut off (lights flash) for a split of a second. A warm day last week it stalled 4 times in 20 minutes on the free way at around 65 mph. I shifted to neuture, started the engine (light off) and continue to run.

Read a dianostics and it says that the ECM register higher than 125 mpr by error and shut the engine automatically. The fix was not provided.

Since the ECM is only $99, I like to change the ECM. I was told the ECM is located under the passanger side dash panel. Do I need to open the plastic cover. Please advise.

The torque converter would shut down the computer and turn off the car. It is a $350.00 job. They drop the trasmission replace the sensor or the converter. This happend on my Skylark. The way I fixed it was disconecting the sensor. If you can live with the service light on once in a while, it does not hurt a thing. Also it saves you a few $$$$.