starts but shuts off immediatly

1995 t-bird 4.6 I have checked tps replaced plugs & wires new computer new fuel pressure regulator does anyone have any suggestion on what else it could be. thank you for any input

Does it stop just as soon as you let go of the starter switch? IF SO you are not getting any electrical feed from your ignition switch up to the ignition. The reason it runs with the ignition switch in the start position is because it is designed to provide extra power for starting from another source. I am not that familiar with the '95 bird to tell you what to check or what the problem may be. Hopefully someone else will jump in here.

it actually runs a second or two before it shuts off. had control module checked today and it is fine. it doesn't start everytime, but when it does, it just shuts off. not sure where else to check.

my 96 is doing that. i've been told to chech catalytic conv. apparantly i have 3 of them, but going to have them checked soon, if i can keep it running long enought to get to a shop. maybe this could be your prob too. hope it helps.

my 96 is doing that. i've been told to check catalytic conv. apparantly i have 3 of them, but going to have them checked soon, if i can keep it running long enough to get to a shop. maybe this could be your prob too. hope it helps.

It might also be a vacuum problem. EGR? Open the hood and get someone to start it, listen close for hissing sounds. If your catalytic converters are plugged, then yes it could cause this, restriction will cause back pressure and it will stall. one of the most common symptoms of bad cat is that you will smell a rotten egg (sulfur) smell. Mine were plugged on my 93, I had 3 as well. Replacin them would have cost me 150$ per cat, too expensive for me! What I did was, I went to a shop and just got them cut out, and straight pipe welded in. This not only solved the problem, but gave me an incredible boost in power and fuel efficiency. Now I only did this because, the province I was living in did not have such strict pollution laws then, In doing this, my car may now not pass inspections in some provinces/states. Hope This helps!

i had some prob with 1990 sc and it turned out to be my ignitoin switch, so u should probally have that checked out.

My 96 4.6 was doing the same thing, it was the fuel pump going bad, well not going... it was gone!

ok nls1,first forget the converters.if they are bad your engine will run but get very hot very fast.if your engine fires, you have spark&fuel at least temporaily.its possible your fuel filter could be plugged up. I would first check the iac motor,( idle air control) "sometimes" you can tap on these lightly and they may work 4 a while.it si located on the throttle body,controls amount of air entering your engine at idle. it si possible to disassemble these & clean them.not recommended if you are not familiar w/them,hope this helps

A friend of mine had a sc and it would just die after a while soon it got so bad that it wouldnt get out of the driveway.We replaced the dis module and a few other sensors then got fed up with it.Took it to a shop and it turned out to be the crank position sensor.Runs perfect every since.Maybe that will help cause apparently it cant hurt.

check your throttle body bolts,sounds crazy but its possible they r loose. you can check the resistance of the coils they should have about 8 ohms of resistance on primary & 14 on secondary. did you check fuel pressure,you need around 40 to 45 lbs,running or not. the crank sensor may be the culprit,not real sure how to check it. technology is great isnt it.

This will sound crazy but these motors are sensitive to electrical shortages check and make sure the negative post on your battery is not full of corrosion. If it is it can cause a voltage drop in the system and the sensors will send wrong signals to the ECM one being the IAC.

SC owners with this problem if all else fails your problem will more than likely be a leak in your intercooler tubes.

Well it looks like EVERYBODY is throwing in their 2 cents so I guess Ill throw mine out there too. I too would forget the cats. If they were plugged you would've had thos problem getting progressively worse and it would still run just really bad. How does it sound when you do get it started? Does it sound like its missing a few cylinders or anything? A crank possition sensor would make it run like shit also. I would have to think either a vacum leak or the IAC as my primary culprits. Visually check the vacum lines for cracks and check the joints to make sure all the lines are clamped down tight. For the IAC I dont really know what you can do. Take it off and take a guess.

I put a remote start system on my car and unplugged my tach sensor while I was installing it and it caused the same issue, but I would also check the crank position sensor.