How 2 Replace CV Halfshaft (driveaxle) drivers side

Hello everyone... I'm a newbie to the site. I could really use a little help here. I have a 93 Dodge Caravan. I just replaced the front tires, mount/balance etc. Put the others in the rear and balanced. For the first couple of days the van really drove nice with a slight wobble at slower speeds. I thought well I have another bad tire in the rear and I will replace those in a couple of weeks. Now the thing really wobbles, shakes etc. Enough to wear I spill coffee all over the place. At slow speeds it is there but not bad. Now here is the part I'm not sure about. If I push on the gas to get going it rattles and wobbles but, let my foot off and coast nothing. Same thing going down hill where I would just coast same thing no vibration etc. I was told that it sounded like a Drive Shaft and that these vehicles were known for this problem. What are you thoughts ?
Secondly if it does need a drive shaft is there a way to check and know for sure? And last, how do you replace one. I have some general automotive background but this would be a first for me.

Thanking you in advance for any help you may have.

easy way to do it would be:

loosen lugnuts
loosen shaft nut (it's like a 1.25 inch socket). I can't remember metric size for it.
raise and jack van.
remove disc brake assembly.
pop out tie rod end out of spindle.
Loosen the three nuts securing the top of the strut to your towers. This gives you some "wiggle" room.
place oil pan below tranny where you will be pulling axle shaft
pull spindle outward and pry axle shaft out by pushing axle shaft into tranny and bend the exterior joint to get out of bearing hub.

instalation is reverse from stated above.

hits/tips:

1. never move vehicle on wheels with out shaft in bearing. The load will destroy bearings
2. torque axle shaft nut

If you are not up to the task yourself, it costs about $300-$350 to have a shop do it.

Someone should tell viper what to do to check out his driveshaft.

I suspect that you can block the rear wheels, and jack both front wheels off the ground. With the engine off, and the tranny in neutral, and the wheels pointed straight ahead turn one of the wheels by hand. Since the wheels will be hanging fully extended, you will have the CV joints bent a little. You should feel a little play in the gears, but it should turn smoothly. If you turn the wheel, and it gets harder at one spot, that could be the half shaft binding.

Next take the wheel off, and without sticking you head under the van, feel the rubber boots around the CV joints. They should not have any rips in them.

If you need to stick your head underneath to do this inspection properly, use jackstands! This comes from someone who considers himself extremely lucky in his teenage years to not be under the car when the jack failed.

Anyone else wanna put in thier 2 cents? I've never done this on anything but a Honda.

Just my 2 cents but if you loosen the 3 top tower nuts make sure that you tighten them down exactly in the same postion otherwise it would seem to me that you would need to get the front end aligned afterwards.

I replaced the shafts on both sides and didnt know to loosen these nuts and things went fine for me anyways.

Thanks alot Capoeta.. This helps alot. I got underneath it (with jack stands lol) and I felt a little overwelmed not know exactly what has to come apart and what does not. Now I just hope I can get the parts free from the years of rust ie Strut Bolts on the tower. I will mark these as suggested.

Thank all of you who have replied. Each one will help me through this.



easy way to do it would be:

loosen lugnuts
loosen shaft nut (it's like a 1.25 inch socket). I can't remember metric size for it.
raise and jack van.
remove disc brake assembly.
pop out tie rod end out of spindle.
Loosen the three nuts securing the top of the strut to your towers. This gives you some "wiggle" room.
place oil pan below tranny where you will be pulling axle shaft
pull spindle outward and pry axle shaft out by pushing axle shaft into tranny and bend the exterior joint to get out of bearing hub.

instalation is reverse from stated above.

hits/tips:

1. never move vehicle on wheels with out shaft in bearing. The load will destroy bearings
2. torque axle shaft nut

Someone should tell viper what to do to check out his driveshaft.

I suspect that you can block the rear wheels, and jack both front wheels off the ground. With the engine off, and the tranny in neutral, and the wheels pointed straight ahead turn one of the wheels by hand. Since the wheels will be hanging fully extended, you will have the CV joints bent a little. You should feel a little play in the gears, but it should turn smoothly. If you turn the wheel, and it gets harder at one spot, that could be the half shaft binding.

Next take the wheel off, and without sticking you head under the van, feel the rubber boots around the CV joints. They should not have any rips in them.

If you need to stick your head underneath to do this inspection properly, use jackstands! This comes from someone who considers himself extremely lucky in his teenage years to not be under the car when the jack failed.

Anyone else wanna put in thier 2 cents? I've never done this on anything but a Honda.
Thanks... Not until after replacing 3 tires did I finally find out that it is probably the half shaft. It only wobbles like this when under a load. I have practiced and can now slowly, gradually get it up to speed. A little wobble between up to 45 and then it smoothes right out.

Thanks again.

Just my 2 cents but if you loosen the 3 top tower nuts make sure that you tighten them down exactly in the same postion otherwise it would seem to me that you would need to get the front end aligned afterwards.

I replaced the shafts on both sides and didnt know to loosen these nuts and things went fine for me anyways.
Yeah, I heard about this. That will buy me a little time until I'm ready for the alignment. I want to get one anyways since I bought new tires.

Thanks again.