First off, sorry if this has already been addressed by someone before but, I'm a new member and my search turned up nothing. I usually come on these forums and I can find answers to my problems without even having to post but I thought I'de try posting this time to get some more direct answers.

Ok, so I have a 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL 3.1L V-6. There are a few things wrong with it and I have some ideas on what they could be but, I'm not a 100% sure. I have a fairly decent amount of knowledge about cars but GM has proven to be most difficult for me to work with. So I thought I'de seek some help on here.

1. My "Service Engine Soon" light comes on at about 45-50mph. The light only comes on when I let go of the throttle at that speed. Otherwise it never comes on. I was thinking bad O2 sensor? Any ideas?

2. My positive battery cable(red) terminal bolt head is stripped. I've tried almost everything to get it off other than some obvious violent methods. Are there any other ways to fix this? I'm assuming because of the cars "complicated" design that I'm going to end up having to replace the whole battery cable. Is there ANY other way around this?

3. Sometimes when I reverse out of my driveway my rear brakes will make a loud WOOMP noise while backing up with the brakes applied slightly. This doesn't happen at any other time while driving and it only does it sometimes. I noticed while changing my rotors that my calipers were kind of sticking to my rotors. (when I removed the wheel the rotors did not spin freely. Parking brake was off no brakes applied.) I C-Clamped them to reset them and went about replacing the rotors. I have no trouble stopping. There's no wobbling or anything like that. Any ideas on what could be causing that noise?

4. My tail lights work. My rear turn signals work. But my brake lights only work when I have my right turn signal on. Naturally I thought it had to be a relay switch gone bad. I could not locate the relay underneath the dash by the brake pedal where it usually is so I assumed it must be in the steering column. Is this correct?

:eek7:

Sorry for the long post. Any help will be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks!

-GRB

Ist, the SES lites needs to be scanned for the code/problem, no other way here. 2cnd, try prying out ward on the cables end as you unscrew it. 3rd ,there is always some drag on the brake caliper/rotors/pads, normal, sometimes dampness on the brakes, especially the rear can cause some noise whe first applied after sitting. 4th, the brake lites sound like the common problem of a bad signal switch, but should be checked out with a wiring diagram.

Ist, the SES lites needs to be scanned for the code/problem, no other way here. 2cnd, try prying out ward on the cables end as you unscrew it. 3rd ,there is always some drag on the brake caliper/rotors/pads, normal, sometimes dampness on the brakes, especially the rear can cause some noise whe first applied after sitting. 4th, the brake lites sound like the common problem of a bad signal switch, but should be checked out with a wiring diagram.

Thanks for the speedy reply!

How exactly would I go about getting the SES scanned? I don't have a scanner. I know where the plug is for it but I cannot do it myself because well, I don't have the device lol. Could I take it to like Auto-Zone or somewhere similar and have this done?

I can't unscrew the battery terminal. It is stripped. I can't get ANY grip on it what-so-ever. I'm affraid to take it off because I don't want to not be able to get it back into the new battery.

It does it even if the car has been driven and if the rotors are dry. For instance. I can park it for 1 minute, then when I go to reverse, it will do make the noise. The only time it doesn't do it is if I do not apply brake while reversing.

Again, thanks for the reply!

Thanks for the speedy reply!

How exactly would I go about getting the SES scanned? I don't have a scanner. I know where the plug is for it but I cannot do it myself because well, I don't have the device lol. Could I take it to like Auto-Zone or somewhere similar and have this done?

I can't unscrew the battery terminal. It is stripped. I can't get ANY grip on it what-so-ever. I'm affraid to take it off because I don't want to not be able to get it back into the new battery.

It does it even if the car has been driven and if the rotors are dry. For instance. I can park it for 1 minute, then when I go to reverse, it will do make the noise. The only time it doesn't do it is if I do not apply brake while reversing.

Again, thanks for the reply!
AZ will not scan obd1 cars, you could jump pins a and b in the connector and count the flashes, batauto.com has the procedure for this. Sounds like a new battery and cable here, unless you can get someone more familiar with the process to help you.

AZ will not scan obd1 cars, you could jump pins a and b in the connector and count the flashes, batauto.com has the procedure for this. Sounds like a new battery and cable here, unless you can get someone more familiar with the process to help you.Hmm. Well, thanks for the info man!

I figured out the battery cable issue, I will be fixing it ASAP.

I will definatly look into either purchasing one of these diagnostic devices or going to a shop that will do it.. Thanks for the BATAUTO.com tip!

Anybody else have any ideas on anything? I love this car man. I love the body style. The engine could use some work but I'de keep the body. I already have 18" 5 Spoke Pulse aftermarkets on it. They look nice with the low profile tires on it. Rides a little bumpier but its worth it IMO. Turning is a little easier as well.

Thanks again!

Anyone??

You can try Auto Zone they will scan trouble codes N\C
For the Battery cable use a hacksaw to remove the nut then replace the bolt and nut.
Service light might be related to the transmission, 45 to 50 mph is when it shifts into lockup, possible speed sensor

good luck

Hey thanks for the reply.

I'll be sure to let you guys know how things turn out.

The battery was a simple misunderstanding on my behalf. I ended up just simply having to remove the rubber insulators on the terminals. Then the terminals slide right out, the new ones go in and the bolt goes on. The original terminals are one piece. The rubber insulator holds them in. The ones I have now are A LOT better.

Relating to the SES light at 45-50 when you let off the throttle - that sounds like EGR valve. pull your codes to be sure, but based on your description, that's what it sounds like.

You have a three-pintle digital EGR valve, capable of different levels of exhaust gas mixture. At deceleration, the pintles are supposed to close. If just one sticks slightly open, it will cause an SES light. You can try removing your EGR valve and cleaning the carbon from the mounting plate and around the pintle valves (comes apart fairly easy).

Wow. Hey, thanks for the information Manny. I never would have though EGR...

I'll be sure to get my codes sorted first. If it turns out to be the EGR should I attempt to clean it first or just replace the part?

If you are talking about the little bal check vavle that used to be locate in the valve covers it can be cleaned with WD40 and as long as it make a rattle when you shake it it usually i alright. I had a problem with the hose going to this valve it was cracked but the crack was on a mold line and not visible. Thanks to the Cutlass sound deadening I could nbot hear the engin e noise either but open the hood whne it was running and it sounded like a jet fighter. That helped my car run better. But it is the 3.4 DOHC and as such a completely different animal.

Re your tail lites, brake lites, yes, we had this problem all, turn signals and brake lite are in the switch inside the steering column on the turn signal switch. If you're having brake lite trouble, that's likely the problem, first check the switch on your brake pedal. If that's not it, and likely not, then its the switch in the column, the 94's are notorious for the POS switch that breaks after about 7-8 years. You have to pull the steering wheel off to replace it, its not bad once the wheel is off.

Wow. Hey, thanks for the information Manny. I never would have though EGR...

I'll be sure to get my codes sorted first. If it turns out to be the EGR should I attempt to clean it first or just replace the part?

Try and clean it first, it comes off fairly easy, two bolts either 10 or 13 mm (I forget which), and the EGR valve itself is held together with torx screws.

Get some intake cleaner, and remove the carbon from the mounting plate, inside and out.

You can actually test your EGR valve with a 9v battery. If you have an extra EGR wiring harness it makes the test really simple (got one from a j/y) - the wiring harness contains 4 wires: two brown, one red, and one what seems to be a funny shade of grey.

One of the brown wires is ground, and the other three control the three pintle valves. Once you find the ground wire, if you engergize the other three one at a time, you will actually hear the pintle open with a "click" - it will give you an indication as to whether all three pintle valves are working or not.

A new EGR will run you for at least $168.00, whereas a j/y EGR may cost $15.00. If it is your EGR and you go the j/y route, keep a 9v in your pocket as you scout the j/y so you know you got a decent one.

Wow guys. Thanks again for all the input!

Even with my basic knowledge of cars, because this is a GM, I'm not exactly sure where the EGR valve is located. Usually somewhere near the exaust manifold correct? But I'm good with tools and I'm sure I can find the part in time. Any chance you could give me some tips on where it may be located?