Think my switch is bad on passenger side door. 98 Ram 1500 4x4 5.2.
Has anyone got the service manual. There should be something that states the ohm resistance between the terminals on the lock switch and also tells what terminals to check in neutral, lock, and unlock positions. I know what terminals to check on the newer rams but the 94-2001 rams have the lock and window switch integrated. So its hard to tell which wires are for what. Thanks in advance. Arg, gonna have to pick up that manual for the 98 ram, if anyone knows where to get it cheap would be appreciated. 90 bucks from chrysler.

Think my switch is bad on passenger side door. 98 Ram 1500 4x4 5.2.
Has anyone got the service manual. There should be something that states the ohm resistance between the terminals on the lock switch and also tells what terminals to check in neutral, lock, and unlock positions. I know what terminals to check on the newer rams but the 94-2001 rams have the lock and window switch integrated. So its hard to tell which wires are for what. Thanks in advance. Arg, gonna have to pick up that manual for the 98 ram, if anyone knows where to get it cheap would be appreciated. 90 bucks from chrysler.

I got a Haynes manual from O'reily's for 18 bucks. The manual says to do the following to test the switch:

1. check the fuse

2. operate the door lock switches in both directions with the engine off. Listen for the click of the relay operating.

3. If there is no click, check for voltage at the switches. If no voltage is present, check the wiring between the fuse block and the switches for shorts and opens.

4. If voltage is present but no click is heard, test the switch for continuity. Replace if there is no continuity in both switch positions.

5. If you have continuity but the relay doesn't click, check the wiring between the switch and the relay for continuity. Repair the wiring if there is no continuity.

6. If the relay is getting voltage from the switch but is not sendig voltage to the solenoids, check for a bad ground at the relay case. If you have a good ground, replace the relay.

7. If only 1 lock solenoid operates, remove the trim panel from the affected door and check for voltage at the solenoid while the lock switch is operated. One of the wires should have voltage in the lock position; the other should have voltage in the unlocked position.

8. If the inoperative solenoid is receiving voltage, relace the solenoid.

9. If the solenoid is not receiving voltage check for an open or short in the wire between the lock solenoid and the relay.

It is common for wires to break in the portion of the harness between the body and door.

This is long but hope it helps.

Thanks for the info dadof4s. Im sure it will help many of the ambitious, however it is winter here and im too lazy to actually do repairs outside until it warms up. So i was looking for the ohm values, which i can take the switch inside and check. lol

Thanks for the info dadof4s. Im sure it will help many of the ambitious, however it is winter here and im too lazy to actually do repairs outside until it warms up. So i was looking for the ohm values, which i can take the switch inside and check. lol

I know what you mean about cold. However we have been having highs in the 70's and 80's here in Tx.

The Hayne's manual I have does not show the ohms value. At least not that I could find it.

Yeah, i really thank you for the effort. Those values wouldnt be in the retail manuals. Symptoms lead to the switch though, driver door and keyless will unlock/lock the passenger door but passenger door switch wont. Know im getting at least some power to the switch as it lights up and window goes up and down. Part is only $30 bucks at the dealer anyway.