94 4Runner 170K General Questions

I have pretty well scoured this forum so if I did miss something obvious that has been previously posted, sorry. I just purchased a 94 4x4 with AT. I have the apparently common 'not going into' or 'drops out of' OD problem so I am going to replace the thermostat ASAP and if that doesn't do the trick then flush the coolant system and then the AT fluid. Secondly, the rear tailgate will not open - the window operates as expected. It goes down OK but 'sluggish going up' and only via the consol switch - the key switch is bad. However, once the window is down the door lock will still not come up and thus the door will not open. I am hoping this is either a relay, switch or and adjustment but haven't been into it yet. Thirdly, the CD does not play - the radio is fine but the CD just goes in and out but just sits there - any hope of repair or 'just replace it'? Finally, in general is there need (if no problems are apparent) in draining and replacing fluids in the AT, PS, differentials, transfer or should they just be checked and topped if necessary?

One last thing, Toyota repl the head gasket in 98 but no clue about the timing belt. I've been told the 3VZE won't damage the valves etc if the timing belt breaks. Is this true?

TIA for your time.

...the CD does not play - the radio is fine but the CD just goes in and out but just sits there - any hope of repair or 'just replace it'?

PM SidneyCanada about this - he hangs out in the 4Runner forum

Finally, in general is there need (if no problems are apparent) in draining and replacing fluids in the AT, PS, differentials, transfer or should they just be checked and topped if necessary?

Yes, the AT drain or flush is important to keep running - every 30 k or so.

PS is important - every 60K or so

Differentials and transfer case - every 30K or so

You can probably get away with longer drain intervals, but these are the intervals I recommend to be safe.

Check maintenance requirements here:

http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet?tid=edmunds.a.landing.feature.. 4.*

One last thing, Toyota repl the head gasket in 98 but no clue about the timing belt. I've been told the 3VZE won't damage the valves etc if the timing belt breaks. Is this true?

Yes, it is a non-interference engine.

Not sure about the lock on the 94 92 you have to pull it up manually.
As for the sluggishness it is usually an alignment problem the frame of the gate is weak and gets to sagging from use, kneeling on it or cargo weight.
There is a relay logic box that controls all the circuits concerning the window wiper defog ect.

Thanks for the replys. I got into the tailgate and the lock handle connecting rod had simply popped out of its retainer clip so i just put that back together and covered it up. I'll look at the keyswitch later; from the looks of things I'll probably need to spend a bit of time in there (corrosion :eek7: ). Bought a thermostat today and as soon as I have time I'll get that changed and let u know if that got the O/D problem fixed. Thx again.

Thanks for the replys. I got into the tailgate and the lock handle connecting rod had simply popped out of its retainer clip so i just put that back together and covered it up. I'll look at the keyswitch later; from the looks of things I'll probably need to spend a bit of time in there (corrosion :eek7: ). Bought a thermostat today and as soon as I have time I'll get that changed and let u know if that got the O/D problem fixed. Thx again.
I've still got the same problem. Be careful, if you put the new stat in, it warms up quick and your shifting problem will be "temporarily" cured, but you may start to overheat pretty quick. Don't go too far from the shop. Let me know how it goes.

I did get my thermostat from Toyota. I've learned that lesson already on my wife's 01 Camry (100k with reg maint hasn't seen a day on the shop). I won't be 'scared off' either (you guys are probably gonna be hearing from me for a while :screwy: ) if the thermostat doesn't fix it I'll move on to the next thing omn the 'list'. Appreciate the input though, I'll watch for the overheating for sure.

(Look we suggested to you to replace the new stat with the old one and when you did the overheating problem went away again.
THE OVERHEATING PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY THE NEW THERMOSTAT!!!!!!
and I doubt seriously that YOUR OD problem will be cured by the thermostat anyway.
Why won't you listen?

We just want to help but if you stonewall the advice then don't scare off others.
The thermostat is an EASY replacement just make sure you get one from the dealer and not Kragens or Shucks or from a junk yard. Frustrated.)

4Wheel,
First off, I do appreciate the advice...My intent is not to scare anyone off of something that allows people to gain knowledge about things they don't know...I was clearly stating a caution to the poster, nothing more, nothing less...Isn't the whole idea of a forum to give people advice and share a wealth of knowledge?...the poster may or may not end up with the same problem. His questions are similar in nature to my post. In my eyes, not a big deal. Relax.

Well, as predicted by some I'm back. I had Toyota replace my thermostat last week and though hooray the O/D problem has disappeared I now have an overheating problem.

As long as the outside temp stays below 50F everything seems to be OK. The temp guage runs about centerline. If the outside temp gets into the 50s the temp guage runs too warm. It hasn't gotten into the red yet but it can get close if I am stopped in traffic on a warm day. I can offset the rise in temp by setting the air temp control to it's hottest setting (even if I am not running the blower). Running the blower will bring the temp guage down even further. btw - When I had them replace the thermostat they also flushed the coolant system. Also, I don't have the option of going back to the old thermostat.

I don't think it is a sensing problem - I just don't think the cooling system is bleeding off the heat effectively. What is a valid test for the fan clutch. It freewheels for several seconds once the engine is stopped.

Warm weather i scoming on soon so I know I have to take care of this ASAP.

TIA,
Gary

1)Toyota automatic transmissions are some of the most reliable in the world "but" if the transmission fluid was not replaced regularly by the prior owner which seems it was not then the shift solenoids begin to stick specially with at cold temperatures as the tranny fluid does not lube well and causes more shifting problems and causes more load on the engine hence running hotter than normal once warmed up.I had bad luck with genuine Toyota (Kuzeh make) of thermostat right out of the box.
Replacing the shift solenoids is easy,just drop the oil pan and replace them,but they usually cost $150 US each.

2)On average every 6 years dust builds up in your home or car causing the CD laser eye to become dirty and not reads CD's,take the CD player out and clean the eye with Q-tips and alcohol or windex by "lightly" touching the eye a couple of times.

3)The teeth in the rear tailgate motor become stripped with use and the problem is more noticeable with the window going up because of gravity so you need a new tailgate motor:

4-Runner rear tailgate window motor:

A)80’s Celica/Supra
B)87-91 Camry (left or back door) Toyota # 85720-32040,NipponDenso # 062100-2410
C)passenger side door power window motor out of Camry
D)Mazda 323 or 626’s passenger or driver’s side window motor two of the holes line up while the 3rd needs filing

The above motors are exactly the same with the exception of the wire harness plug as the 4-Runner's tailgate motor harness plug is more weather proof so it's a different plug,just cut the old one off and crimpt it to the new motor,those motors can be hand for next to nothing as there is no demand at junk yards and car parts cost less then "Toyota SUV" parts.

4)The tailgate rear outside key lock is fine if it rotates,if not lube it with: any of these deep penetrating oils in the following order:

AeroKroil Oil (from Kanolabs)
PB Blaster
Liquid Wrench
Toyota Rust Penetrant or High Performance Penetrating lube
Rust Check
Fluid Film

it may take about 50 to 100 turns of the key lock to free it up as Toyota key locks have been known to seize up as corrosion builds up in areas where road salt is used to melt winter snow.
If the key rotates and no power is present then one or both of the blue wires connected to that key lock are broken off as they are short and easily get tangled in the window travel path not allowing the window to drop all the way down and de-activate the inside safety release lock.

5)Replacing the 3VZE timing belt is easy just don't forget to replace the idler bearings as they have been known to seize,see below for complete details:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/v6tbelt/index.html

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 247 000 KM

http://groups.google.com/group/hfx.forsale/browse_thread/thread/43940ce83231ab85/4e4c696fbf04837f?q=sidney+tv+repair&rnum=1#4e4c696fbf04837f

http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/May02/May18.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/SonyAudMod.html
http://www.newark.com/product-details/image/mcm/image/32-9495.jpg
http://www.tipsmaster.ca/hottips-1.HTM
http://www.tipsmaster.ca/1011-TV32C50-007.jpg
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/June03/June0315.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Apr03/Apr033.html


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:grinno:

Well, it's been a while but I thought I would add a further note to anyone who may reference this thread. The over heating problem cleared up on its own. I have no explanation - the only thing I saw that would indicate a possible culprit was a small piece of orange RTV that was the excess of what was apparently applied by Toyota when they replaced my thermostat made it's way to the top of the radiator and I removed it. The problem didn't clear up instantly afterward but pretty much slowly straightened itself out. I have been driving in 90+ degree weather with the AC running and the temp gauge runs at midline.

i've had the same problems with my rear window.... not sure about the "key" open/close but if you remove the interior panel and the plate you will be able to see the lock mechanism... i simply greased up the joints and it worked...