Hi Guys, I just happened onto this forum after doing a google search.. Looks like a great place so I registered..

I just bought a used 1989 S-10 2.8L 5 sp. with 130k miles on it.. I was excited as this is my 1st 4WD truck.. The truck is very clean and the engine is remarkably clean.. Well as luck would have it, I'm starting to notice little things here and there..

Number one, I noticed the serp belt had a slight amount of wear on the front.. Looks like the tensioner is a little of center..

Number two, the truck has started to leak oil.. After looking, it looks like the o-ring under the distributer is shot..

Number three, The truck is now making a noise at low speeds when I turn.. I can feel it thump right under the accelerator.. I know a guy that used to be a GM Mechanic.. Went for a test drive and he turned the wheel back and forth several times He said it was a ball joint.. We then jacked the truck up and tried moving the front wheels.. The driver side had visual play in it.. The passenger side seemed fine..

The guy was telling me he would charge me $1300 to fix everything.. The tensioner, the o-ring leak, and all of the ball joints..

That's seems nuts and I think I might try to fix it myself..

My main question involved the ball joint, if indeed that's what it is.. Is there any way to determine if it's the upper or lower joint on the driver side? It looks like the lowers have been replaed as they are bolted on.. The uppers have rivets..

Do I absolutely have to change them all at the same time? Or is that just a good idea? I've heard the lower ones are a beast.. If I could just get away with changing the upper driver side, it would make my day..

The guy also said on a 4WD the front axle parts have to come out? Is this true?

What is involved in changing the ball joints? Tips tricks? I've heard to buy the moog replacements..

Thanks for any help you can offer.. Great Forum..
Michael

no you dont have to change all the joints and you shouldnt have to remove the front diff or axles from the car just maybe the axle from the knuckle. It seems pretty pricy but the ball joints are at least $60-80 a piece. the pulley may run $50 and the distributer has to come out. plus an alignment after the joints. those are cheep prices from autobone. It is a lot of work prbly what a dealer would charge. you could do the tensioner symply take the belt of unbolt the tensioner and reverse to install. the dist involves timing the engine make your own judgment. Sears replaced two lower balljoint and a wheel aligment in my girlfriend chrysler minivan for under $400. good luck!!

Welcome . . . I just joined myself last month even though I've been checking in to this forum for more than a year.

The first thing you should do is get a Haynes Manual. It's a small investment that will give you years of value. It gives you step by step instructions including photos for most operations including the distributor and ball joints you describe. (It's also good bedtime reading if you don't have a life).

$1300 is crazy. You can do all these things yourself for just the cost of parts if you have the tools and a sheltered place to work.

The tensioner is easy. It will help if you have the sticker under the hood showing the belt routing so you get it back on right.

Distributor o-ring. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully and don't turn the crankshaft while the distributor is out.

Ball joints are just messy grunt work and yes you likely will have to drill out the rivets. They're pretty soft. I shear the heads off with an air chisel after drilling part way through. Moog are good, expensive, but lifetime guaranteed.

All of the above and more can be found on line at the following link.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Good luck!