I have had problems with this thing for going on a year. Seems that the sirst problem was "water in the gas". After I droped the tank, drained and cleaned it seemed to fix the problem. During that process I also did plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body. Now about 8 months and around 3 thousand miles later low and behold similar problems have come back but with a vingance. My tach goes crazy and it starts to miss and it feels like the car is going to jerk to a halt. I then again dropped the tank and clean it out again, it did seem to help but I get a SES light. I get it scanned and it seems that it was an evap code. But the componants that could cause that code were singled out and tested good. The guy said it could be that the gas cap was not installed properly. He cleared the code and the light was gone for about 3 days. The vehicle started to miss and die now. And today it got so bad that I could hardly keep the eng. running in park while giving it a good amount of fuel and it just sounded horrible. The RPMs were all over the place and the eng was makeing knocking sounds. The SES light will come on and go off at will. I have noticed a strange smell sometimes, maybe the "rotten egg smell" I have seen talked a little bit in here. What does that smell mean? What should I do next?

One quick question, I may have forgot to put the clamps on the fill tube hose where it connects to the tank and maybe even the small tube on the front of the tank ( I guess it would be for venting???) Could those two small things be the cause of all this?

Here is a follow up. I just got back from the mechanic's shop and the four codes that have been registered are the 335 crankshaft position sensor ( which seemed to be a extreme worry ) and the 341 camshaft position sensor (also a major concern ) and 440 evap code ( no worry at all with this one, in time though ) and a 706 transmit ion range sensor circuit.

Can anyone help me with the some info on the first two codes. I can "shade tree mechanic" around a car pretty good but I have never been into these two situations. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On edit: From what little I have gotten to read it seems that the crank sensor and cam sensor works somewhat together, what is the likelyhood of both sensors going bad?

The crank and camshaft sensor going bad that fast? Weird.

First, I think you might need to take a look at your latest tuneup.

Have you ever changed the cap and rotor?

Ever changed the fuel filter?

The crank and camshaft sensor going bad that fast? Weird.

First, I think you might need to take a look at your latest tuneup.

Have you ever changed the cap and rotor?

Ever changed the fuel filter?

I have not done the cap and rotor. All I did were the plugs, wires, pcv valve, air filter, and the fuel filter. I have done the fuel filter on several differant occations.

Is there a way to test those sensors to see if they are in fact bad? And would a bad cap/rotor give the codes for the two sensors?

Cap and rotor will cause misfires which could be taken as a sensor malfunction.

I have no idea why you changed the plugs and wires yet left the cap and rotor???

Here is an update. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor ( alot easier than I thought it was going to be ) and I also replace the camshaft position sensor ( man was that one a major pain in the a$$ ) and problems were solved. And I figured I would go ahead and finish my tune-up and replaced the cap and rotor.

Excellent, is the 440 code still there?

Not as of yet. I am crossing my fingers that it won't but I have a feeling that it may, don't really know why I do, maybe because I have not had very good luck with this thing.

But untill it does my next project is the ABS light. I have an idea that which hub is bad. It should still be under waranty. Man that freaking hud was a mother to get off last time. And even harder to get back on. Would anti-seize help it going on next time????

Have the ABS computer scanned, it could be another thing causing it.