95 Buick Park Ave Climate control module

Recently purchased a 95 Park avenue. Initially the climate control module was "stuck" on A/C as soon as the car was turned on. I took it back to the "car dealer" to get it fixed and he replaced with a previously used climate control module. With this climate control module when the heat or the ac is turned on half the car (driver' side) blows hot air through the vents and floor and the other side (passenger side) blows cold air. This piece is very expensive to purchase new. Does anyone have some troubleshooting tips .....Please.

Two things could cause what you described.
1) Low Freon
2) Blender door actuator

I worked on my 98 LeSabre this summer for connector problems on the programmer. If yours is built the same as mine for dual automatic air conditioning, the bottom of the programmer box had a link rod that snaps onto the heater box itself and controls the mix of air to the passenger side.

I wonder if that link is not snapped onto the white plastic connector that's a part of the door inside the heater box. It's a press fit just push it in. Take off the sound deadener panel under the passenger dash and look up. You'll see a vertical box at the right like a large paperback book sitting at an angle to the heater box with a metal rod about 5 inches long extending left toward the heater box. It should be snapped onto a nylon connector.

Thank you very mcuh for responding. I will try your suggestion this weekend. I hope it works!! Thank you

My HOT & COLD PROBLEM HAS BEEN RESOLVED!!!
Please note if what I did was you meant it worked. I took the car to a Milea. The guy told me that I should do the following:
In the glove box there are two plastic things on either side. One has to remove them inorder to get to the back of the glove box. There was a lever in ther about 3-5 inches that had switched to the left. I had to move the lever to the right and the problem was solved. The only thing is that I have to do every time I get in the car. I have to try to create something that will hold it in its place!!

Did you see anthing that looked like this pic while working behind the glove box? It should have a rod connected to it.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/297374AC_actuator21.jpg (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/%5Bimg%5Dhttp://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/297374AC_actuator21.jpg%5B/img%5D)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/297374AC_actuator2.jpg

My HOT & COLD PROBLEM HAS BEEN RESOLVED!!!
Please note if what I did was you meant it worked. I took the car to a Milea. The guy told me that I should do the following:
In the glove box there are two plastic things on either side. One has to remove them inorder to get to the back of the glove box. There was a lever in ther about 3-5 inches that had switched to the left. I had to move the lever to the right and the problem was solved. The only thing is that I have to do every time I get in the car. I have to try to create something that will hold it in its place!!

That lever should be connected to a threaded rod to an actuator motor.
But, I'm having the same problem you describe, and for some reason the
actuator motor isn't working. Still trying to get to the bottom of it.

Ed

Replace the actuator, they cost about 37 bucks from Advanced!

Replace the actuator, they cost about 37 bucks from Advanced!

I've ordered one. However, I bench tested it and found the lever moves
when I apply 12v to the terminals going to the little motor, reversing direction when I reversed polarity. So, actuator is probably OK. I'm now thinking possibly sensors.

Thanks.

Ed

I believe the actuator should be powered with 5V, instead of 12V. You may have jolted it to life with the 12V!:rofl::disappoin:screwy:

I believe the actuator should be powered with 5V, instead of 12V. You may have jolted it to life with the 12V!:rofl::disappoin:screwy:

The reference votage for the actuator position feedback is 5V, but the
motor gets +/- 8V, according to diagrams in AllDate. But you're right,
I hit it pretty hard at 12V. It didn't seem to care, though... no smoke!
Probably moved 50% faster than it would at 8V.

I may put it back in the car until I get the new one, so I can try some other things. For example, people here (you, perhaps?) have given various reset
sequences, e.g., ignition on/off etc, or removing NEG battery cable,
to get rid of the blinking display.

It's amazing how many posts there have been on this issue, yet no service bulletins as far as I can tell from AllData.

thanks.

Ed