HELP! 97 Park Ave wont start!

I was driving my car home about three weeks ago, and as i was slowing down to a toll booth, the car shut off. when i went to start it back up, the car just flashed the security lamp. all accessiories work till i turn the key all the way to start, then they all shut off and it blinks the security light. I bought a new key, but i dont know how to program it. also, if thats not it, please tell me what you think it is.
Thanks,
tim

definately a VATS problem (wiring issue?)

Check and clean battery cables, then test battery under load as well as alternator output. Once you’re sure that those are in proper operating condition, if the engine will not turn over, then it could be the VATS. One thing that stood out in your post was that the car shut off while it was running. A VATS related problem should not cause that. Most VATS related problems are encountered on initial start. If the car started and was running, then the VATS system test passed the security check point.
:screwy:

Two weeks ago, I had a 94 LeSabre with the same problem, however, the owner (relative) drove the car home from a routine trip and all was fine. The next morning it would not start (turn over) no clicking, or anything. The lights would work until you tried to start it, and then everything would go off, except the security light. I checked the battery voltage and had 12.4 V. I then checked the cable connections for tightness and they were tight. Tried it again, and nothing! I then removed the negative cable and it was clean. Next, I removed the positive cables (two piggyback) and they had a small amount of corrosion where it contacts the battery. I thought that is not bad enough to cause this problem. I then pulled the two cables apart and found a small amount of corrosion at that point, so I got the soda water and a brass wire brush and cleaned all the parts of the terminals and reinstalled them to the battery. It fired up the first try and has not given a problem since.
:iceslolan

The point of this story is to emphasize the importance of clean connections. It does not take much corrosion on the side mount terminals to cause a problem.

I remember back in the days when all batteries had top post and with an inch of corrosion around the terminals, they would still start the car. We would just pour some soda water on the crud and wash it off!
:sadwavey:

Its got the little glass transponder in it, so its not the vats system, right? The car is at my parents house right now, so im going home to attempt the cleaning. so no one has any idea why it just shut off while i was driving?

(wiring issue?)

:attention:

i dont know, i think im screwed.

Ok, i have the other key, which i know is fine. the battery was low, so i am charging it. it still is exactly the same problem. i dont know whats going on and what im going to do. my parents dont want it sitting at their place anymore, and i cant drive it off.

Are you saying that after you charged the battery and cleaned the terminals, that it will not turn over? Do you here any clicking noise when you try to start it, or is it just dead? Do you have a full 12 volts + at the battery and how far down does the voltage drop when you try to start it? We need more information and troubleshooting to help you through this!

Here is a good link on the VATS to help you understand how it works;

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf
VATS & PASSKEY 11 systems

one more thing... i said everything turned on. i was partially wrong. when the key is on (like running, not at the start position) the info center is not on. does this mean anything?

ok, back up to square one a sec and do some basic troubleshooting. make sure all your maxi-fuses in the engine compartment are ok, especially any for the ECM/BCM.

Like Hotz28 said, check the terminals, battery voltage, and cables. And Wrightz28 check the fuses. I have a 95 PA, wouldn't start, got a jump from AAA, started, wouldn't start with buick to buick jump with skinny cables. New battery and cleaned the cable connectors and terminals, worked fine for a week or so. Quit when I stopped to get a wire wheel tool at the dealer. New post and fresh cleaning and started fine for a week or so. Alternator and battery tested fine at the dealer no start. Week or so later no start, towed by AAA to friendly mechanic, new starter (old was tired, old, original, not inclined to work everyday) and new positive cable because some, very little corrosion was evident. Month and a half now and no problem. Gauge on dash shows more volts? Over all starting is better and even shifts smoother.

Worunner :feedback: :slap: If it is still not running, you could donate it to a worthwhile cause, me!! :iceslolan