84 4runner

I'm looking at a 84 4runner with 150,000 miles on it. it is a 4cyl with a stick shift. Any thing I should be aware of or onthe lookout for. the price tag is $1600 or OBO and it has my curiosity. thanks for any help

This reply may be too late, but the main thing to check for is frame rust (unless you're in the southwest of course). The frames rust from the inside out, so when it becomes obvious, it is usually bad. Check especially anywhere the frame turns upward from horizontal, above the rear wheels, and where the fuel tank sits against the frame.

Also find out if/when the timing chain was replaced.

Depending on where you are, $1600 sounds a bit high, unless it's perfect.

Check the back fenders and frame for deep rust by taking a hammer and tapping the back frame,also do a fluid analysis on the engine oil by buying a fluid/oil analysis kit from any Caterpillar dealer's parts dept or some heavy duty shops which would tell you how healthy the engine is if the engine oil and radiator coolant was changed regularly on those engines you can get at least 300 000 miles.

Remove the spark plugs and look at them as a picture means a thousand words if it has a manual tranny park the vehicle on a hill facing downwards then put the tranny in first gear and shut it off,don't use the parking brake or foot break if the vehicle holds itself well in first then your engines piston rings are great then you have high compression (no leakage past the rings),also when the engine is running remove the oil filler cap and see if you have b l o w by,a healthy engine should have a vaccum effect if you put your palm on the oil filler cap.

Finally if you have a portable air compressor perform a leak down test on the engine,for more info on a leak down test do a search on Google.
By the way find out where the guy works which would tell you if it has highway miles or city miles.Pull the ECU codes.

About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.

To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.htmll
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/toyotaobd.shtml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links/toyota_trouble_codes.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm

Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.

Also verify that the VIN (serial #) matches the parts & color of the vehicle that you might buy incase it was in an accident or stolen (made from chop shop parts):

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/vin
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/vin/
http://www.4runners.org/articles/vin_code.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_dts.html
http://www.autoinsurancetips.com/toyota_vin.htm
http://www.sr5.net/sr5axles.htm
http://www.geocities.com/toyotashawn/ratios.html

Here are some good starters if you buy it:

1)check all 4 spark plugs,rotor & distributor cap
2)clean throttle body
3)Replace front (exhaust/front pipe)oxygen sensor
4)replace alternator carbon brushes
5)Replace starter copper contacts
6)Lube brake bleeder screws,other parts including rubber suspension parts & spare tire assembly
7)Check 5 speed manual tranny pilot shift lever bushing & seat for excesssive wear and in auto tranny CHANGE THE FLUID to avoid shift solenoids from going bad
8)sandblast frame specially back frames if you live in an area where it snows and road salt is used then coat frame with http://www.por15.com

And in detail below are the above info:

Check all 4 spark plugs,rotor & distributor cap.Then clean the throttle body and replace the oxygen sensor.Also pull the ECU codes incase a part is an electronic sensor is faulty or bad wiring.

Usually excessive short trip city miles combined with low octane gasoline causes excessive carbon build up in the throttle body which does not allow sufficient airflow and hence the butterfly flap/accelerator plate to close all the way.

To clean the throttle body remove the air intake hose and examine the intake and throttle body for excessive carbon build if found then buy a can of throttle body cleaner labeled "safe on oxygen sensors,TPS's and catalytic converters" do not use carb cleaner make sure your engine is fully warmed up prior to using as when the throttle body is hot it dissolves the carbon easily and quickly.The labels usually specify to park the vehicle at ground level (0 degrees,no inclination) and have the engine running but I disagree I instead park the vehicle on a hill facing down and shut the engine off and hold a rag below the lip of the throttle body and poor the stuff and use a tooth brush.

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 246 000 KM

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thanks for the info but I decided not to go with this 4runner.
I'm going to look for something newer, 50k to 100k miles.
Thanks again, Woody