http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/Swap121.JPG


I don't know....think this cam has some lift??
http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/Swap118.JPG

Just slightly.

Looks good, but your neighbors are going to hate you mang! :thumbsup:

Looks good. When is it going to be finished?

Teh sex!!!

Dude, really, your neighbors will not like you. I suggest you give them all ridea and let them know why it is so loud....

I am hoping the weather holds out for me until after next weekend.
Hoping the first weekend in November to start it.

What tires are you running on the rears?

Nitto drag radials for now.

I mean what size? Are you still on the stock rims??

:eek:

Been in a 455 superduty-equipped buick skylark on stock tires, won't do that again.

275/40/17's

Stock rims.

That looks pretty sweet.

Pfft. Not as much lift as my VTAK. :p

Pfft. Don't even have stud girdles.

Thats probably the weakest motor i've ever seen in my life.

Gnarliest rocker arms ever.

Thats probably the weakest motor i've ever seen in my life.
I know. Sad really.

Have you already primed the oil system and everything!? I'm getting excited, engine builds are so fun! lol

Nope, not primed yet.

I need it in the engine bay for that. Easiest way on this motor is to make sure there is no fuel or spark and crank it over a couple times.

And today....

Front cover is on, power steering pump is on, removed stock clutch master cylinder, cleaned rear cover, removed stock torque arm. Didn't spend much time out there today....damn weather was crap until about 3PM.

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/Swap122.JPG

This piece had so much flex, no wonder they say a good torque arm is a good thing.
http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/Swap124.JPG

How do you prime the oil pump on the new small blocks? Looks to me like there'd have to be a better way other then turning it over with no fuel or spark.

I know on the old blocks, you just stick a drill down where the distributor goes and turn the oil pump untill the drill bogs down.

There are a couple ways. All of which involve more work than I am going to give.

Pull the harness on the coils, and pull the fuel injectors fuse....and crank. Only takes a couple cranks...and all the internals already have a nice coating of assembly lube on them.
If that doesn't work....dynamite should force some oil up.

If that doesn't work....dynamite should force some oil up.


Now here's a story about a poor mountaineer... barely kept his family fed... out one day shootin at some food... and up came up some bubblin crudeee....

Oil that is.
Black Gold.
Texas Tea...

:icon16:

10 steps forward and 999 back.

Thinking I want different pistons. :lol:

I will have a clip up sometime in March.

Lol. Heard that then.

Surely you aint already wanting to swap out pistons????

I am. :lol:

Probably not going to though. That is a lot of work, and I believe a good tune is the key around the full dish.

HAHA, doesn't even have it in the car yet and you want new pistons :lol:

So what is that old saying....neighbors may sell cars, but torque wins races...? Screw teh neighbors, you don't need to be sneaking out of hte neighborhood in the middle of the night after you're 18 anyway. :evillol:

:lol:

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/Swap128.JPG


Talk about a mess.

i beleive its HP sells cars, HP wins races...or at least that is the truth ;)

Lol. It may not ever run again!

Well, if those new fangle SBCs are like the old SBCs, then put the timing to it and it'll scream. Mine is set on 40*, which is way too much for your situation, but you get the idea.

My new setup for next year is going to be high compression (wanting 14 or 14.5:1) and a tunnel ram :evillol:!