this came STRAIGHT from a gm tech.....

to fix the clunk in the drivetrain from a dead stop(chirp, clunk, bump...etc...) pull the driveshaft and stuff a raquetball in the yoke and reinstall driveshaft.....

it fixed my bro inlaws on his 01.....been that way for 30000miles.....

You've got to be kidding me....

So where do I stick the racquetball to fix 2-3 upshift clunk? =)

Can I drop a tennis ball in the gas tank to make my fuel guage read correctly again? Or some marbles down the oil fill tube so my piston slap goes away? LOL

Just bustin your chops man. I am sure you will get plenty of humorous comments on that post. If it works, hey, I would try it.

sounds logical because it would apply pressure to keep the joint tight but it sounds kinda rigging it instead of fixing it. but whatever works i guess.

this came STRAIGHT from a gm tech.....
to fix the clunk in the drivetrain from a dead stop(chirp, clunk, bump...etc...) pull the driveshaft and stuff a raquetball in the yoke and reinstall driveshaft.....
it fixed my bro inlaws on his 01.....been that way for 30000miles.....

So do you use the heavy duty blue balls, the standard duty black balls, high visability red balls, or the environmentally friendly green balls? Sorry - but its too good an opening to not take a little stab :smile: :smile:

I guess if it works - its works. But what would the preventive maintenance plan on something like this be - change to a new ball every 25,000 miles ???


Man - to think of a truck and its costs - and then if some jiggy thing like this works and holds up and doesn't hurt anything - new definition of technical improvements :smile: :smile:

White Lightening

I think i would use a spring...

99Redsilverado, You cracked me up, I'm roaring but you know, I may just try it. I've been building chevys for 41 years, used duct tape, chicken wire, wood plugs, tarp straps and who knows whatelse just to go down the road. Saturday, in goes a ball. I don't know how it'll work when the outside diameter of the slip yoke is too small but hell I'm game. I'll let you know.

Let me get this straight, what can I lose but a raquetball.

I drop the driveshaft and put the ball exactly where, I'm not exactly sure what the yoke is. I've changed u-joints before and I thought it was what the u-joint attached into.. or is it the shaft piece that slides into the back of the transmission?

So where do I stick the racquetball to fix 2-3 upshift clunk? =)

you dont because thats a programming problem.....go get your pcm reflashed.....

bu yeah, i was speechless when he told me, i thought he was trying to make me feel stupid.....but like i said my brother in law's quit chirping and its been like that for 30k miles.....

I wouldn't mind trying it. But what happens if I want to get it out of there.........? How would I do that?

long pair of needle nose pliers

Let me get this straight, what can I lose but a raquetball.

I drop the driveshaft and put the ball exactly where, I'm not exactly sure what the yoke is. I've changed u-joints before and I thought it was what the u-joint attached into.. or is it the shaft piece that slides into the back of the transmission?

its the end that slides in to the t-case

I also have the clunking problem when first taking off and then when coming to a stop. Does this raquet ball fix really work? I am to the point where I would try just about anything to fix it. Anyone else out there tried this with any luck? Thanks in advance.

like i said my brother in law's quit chirping and its been like that for 30k miles.....

/I\
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read above

I thought about it last night and it makes sense. If the spline is a bit loose then there will be a small movement and as we all know, a clank. So the ball would create enough pressure to stablize the tail shaft. Beats hell out of buying a new yoke. Well, if I can get in the shop tomorrow aand on the lift I try it. If not, maybe during the week.

fixed my 2-3 upshift clunk by adding 2 bottles of ATF conditioner. My clunk was happennning under light throttle accelleration on a 2005 chevy 4x4. Just stumbled on to this fix as I've always used conditioner in all my trucks and never had tranny troubles. Anyway noticed slight clunk since getting new. By the time I got around to putting in the conditioner and after about 1000 miles it went away.

What brand conditioner did you use? I was going to dump a bottle of Lucas in it. Mine has 30,000 on it and does it under light throttle. Once in awhile in slow traffic when I jump on it, it downshifts hard, bangs and goes like hell. Keep looking back to see if the diff is laying in the road!!!!

I just used an off the shelf product from the local parts napa store

As you've probably noticed by now I'm not the mechanic, I know basic stuff but using technical terms, I'm lost! lol

One more break it down barney style review for me, you drop the drive shaft, and you stuff the raquet ball inside the silver shaft that you insert into the back of the t-case? I'm not exactly sure what the yoke is so that description doesn't help me. Sorry to sound stupid, but I'm gonna give this a shot because I'm about to blow up my truck cause of this clunk!

You pretty much have it. I didn't put the ball in yet but I will as soon as I can get to a lift. Rain and mud messed up my plan this past weekend. I did put in a bottle of lucas trans conditioner, went for a long ride and have noticed a difference. Here's what I'll do: Mark the drive shaft on the ends with a marker or chalk so you put it together the same way you took it apart. Disconnect the shaft at the rear, lower it and slowly pull it out of the transfer case, put your ball in, probably will need a stick to shove it in, put a little trans fluid on the outside of the shaft {don't want to crack the seal}and slowly put in back in. Connect to the rear and go like hell. Like I said, I didn't do mine yet. Take your time.

I have got to try this. Nothing to lose but a raquetball right?

You pretty much have it. I didn't put the ball in yet but I will as soon as I can get to a lift. Rain and mud messed up my plan this past weekend. I did put in a bottle of lucas trans conditioner, went for a long ride and have noticed a difference. Here's what I'll do: Mark the drive shaft on the ends with a marker or chalk so you put it together the same way you took it apart. Disconnect the shaft at the rear, lower it and slowly pull it out of the transfer case, put your ball in, probably will need a stick to shove it in, put a little trans fluid on the outside of the shaft {don't want to crack the seal}and slowly put in back in. Connect to the rear and go like hell. Like I said, I didn't do mine yet. Take your time.

I've replaced my u-joints before, so I know how to take it apart. I just needed clarification on exactly where I put the ball before I did and had it in the wrong place (not that you really could but, you don't know me!!) While I'm on this subject... Does anyone have the same problem as me when pulling out from a dead stop, it seems like something in the rear maybe slips for a second then grabs, doesn't clunk and doesn't do it everytime, but there's a minor slip feeling, I don't remember noticing it before but maybe I wasn't looking for more Chevy noises.

Damn man, our trucks must have been built by the same guy. I get that little slip every so often. Sometimes I'll jump in and go, then a mila second slip, next time I break the tires loose. I think we need to get it programmed again.

Is a raquetball the same as a tennis ball?

Is a raquetball the same as a tennis ball?

No, raquetballs are smaller, no felt on the outside, and are usually blue in color. They are somewhere between a golf ball and a tennis ball in size.

I tried this mod and I couldn't get the whole racquet ball in there so i tore it in half and just stuffed half of it in there. After a couple of days still no clunk. Its worth the $2.50 for the balls, thanks for the info.

I tried this mod and I couldn't get the whole racquet ball in there so i tore it in half and just stuffed half of it in there.

You must be very strong :naughty:

I tried this mod and I couldn't get the whole racquet ball in there so i tore it in half and just stuffed half of it in there. After a couple of days still no clunk. Its worth the $2.50 for the balls, thanks for the info.

Well that's what I was waiting for, a report of someone on here that tried it with success. I guess this weekend brings the jerry rig it with a raquetball clinic. Wonder if the guy that invented the raquetball ever thought that his creation would solve the problem of Silverado owners and help mask a crappy design by GM. I'll post my results when I get around to doing it!

Well, I tried to stuff a ball in the shaft!!!!! It was a no go. I even tried using a ring compressor. What I did realize is the aluminum driveshaft does resonate sound much more than a steel one. I can live with the clank {which is minimal}and the clunk seems to have vanished after a bottle of lucas and 500 miles. Monday it goes to the dealer for a rusting bumper on the inside and tailgate straps which snapped.

It is too big for the yoke, after a couple of weeks with half of the ball in mine, still no clunk.

Is this problem only on 4wd models?

Mine is a 4 wheel drive

Does anyone have the same problem as me when pulling out from a dead stop, it seems like something in the rear maybe slips for a second then grabs, doesn't clunk and doesn't do it everytime, but there's a minor slip feeling, I don't remember noticing it before but maybe I wasn't looking for more Chevy noises.

It's funny that I read this post today. I was about to start a thread asking this very question. Every so often when starting from a dead stop I get a small slip and then it's off to the races. There's no noise assosiated with it. It's almost like dumping the clutch in a standard but it happens as low RPM. It's not too annoying but I wonder if it will cause problems in the long run. It doesn't happen all the time and it usually happens after I've backed out of somewhere and went from reverse to drive (at a dead stop). Anyone else have this issue?

Is this problem only on 4wd models?


Mine does it and its a 4wd.

It's funny that I read this post today. I was about to start a thread asking this very question. Every so often when starting from a dead stop I get a small slip and then it's off to the races. There's no noise assosiated with it. It's almost like dumping the clutch in a standard but it happens as low RPM. It's not too annoying but I wonder if it will cause problems in the long run. It doesn't happen all the time and it usually happens after I've backed out of somewhere and went from reverse to drive (at a dead stop). Anyone else have this issue?

My 2001 Z-71 was doing this exact thing. I explained it to my Chev service manager and they replaced the slip yoke with a updated nickle plated yoke. That was back when I was still under warranty.

So has anyone been able to stuff the whole ball in? I'm thinking of doing it this weekend, just want to know what to be prepared for.

UPDATE: Well I did the lucas tranny treatment, it started to work a little better but I still had a clank once in awhile. Tried to stuff a ball in the yoke but gave up. Took into the dealer monday and they flashed the puter and found one up-grade. Haven't noticed the slip between 1-2 and the clang is gone but I did hear the clunk one time. All in all I'm a bit happier. Oh yeah they changed the steering shaft also.

In response to my squawk and slip when pulling out from a dead stop, I finally broke down and took her to the dealer cause I was tired of trying to find Waldo with blindfolds on. Turns out the noise was from two places...

Slipyoke (which I DID lubricate), needed a specialer (yes it's my new word) type of lubricant then I used..

I had some rubbing of some sorts in the leaf springs so they added rubber insulators to them to keep from metal to metal grinding. $88 later and I'm quiet as can be. Now I just have to re-break down and dump the $130ish it's gonna take for them to put the replacement steering column unit in.

It is too big for the yoke, after a couple of weeks with half of the ball in mine, still no clunk.


It's been a couple months now, how's the 1/2 ball solution working?

this came STRAIGHT from a gm tech.....

to fix the clunk in the drivetrain from a dead stop(chirp, clunk, bump...etc...) pull the driveshaft and stuff a raquetball in the yoke and reinstall driveshaft.....

it fixed my bro inlaws on his 01.....been that way for 30000miles.....

Better Solution! Do like your suppose to and grease up splines. I had the "Start/Stop" clunk for 2 years. Greesed with Slick 50 and have been good now for almost 2 years. LOL.

Mine is still quite, I wish that I would have known about this 2 years ago.

Mine is still quite, I wish that I would have known about this 2 years ago.

awesome

Better Solution! Do like your suppose to and grease up splines. I had the "Start/Stop" clunk for 2 years. Greesed with Slick 50 and have been good now for almost 2 years. LOL.

I'm not a whiz on the driveshaft portion of vehicles. When I took my truck to the dealer they greased the slip yoke and it stopped that squawk when I pulled out. I think it's starting to wear off because the noise is coming back. Where exactly should I grease and what kind is best to use? Am I dropping the drive shaft and greasing the yoke that slides into the transfer case? Thanks.

I'm not a whiz on the driveshaft portion of vehicles. When I took my truck to the dealer they greased the slip yoke and it stopped that squawk when I pulled out. I think it's starting to wear off because the noise is coming back. Where exactly should I grease and what kind is best to use? Am I dropping the drive shaft and greasing the yoke that slides into the transfer case? Thanks.


Fire24,

Put two scratches on each drive shaft so that you may realign them later. There is likely a Carrier bearing holding one of the shafts, don't remember which. Drop the back shaft at the Differential, pull the shaft out of the yoke. Don't damage the splines. Clean both spline and yoke. Grease with as much good grease as you can. I used slick50, there may be a better choice. I don't believe the Zerk fitting distributes the grease. Reassemble. Good luck.

Fire24,

Put two scratches on each drive shaft so that you may realign them later. There is likely a Carrier bearing holding one of the shafts, don't remember which. Drop the back shaft at the Differential, pull the shaft out of the yoke. Don't damage the splines. Clean both spline and yoke. Grease with as much good grease as you can. I used slick50, there may be a better choice. I don't believe the Zerk fitting distributes the grease. Reassemble. Good luck.

Alright thanks a lot!! That's what I figured but I thought I should ask first. Thanks again.

I know this thread is old, but now that it's months later, have any of you guys who put the ball in had any problems? Still quiet? Just curious. Thinking of trying this on mine. Clunk is not too bad, and I can actually get it to not do it if I stop a certain way, but I figured I'd try it...

this came STRAIGHT from a gm tech.....

to fix the clunk in the drivetrain from a dead stop(chirp, clunk, bump...etc...) pull the driveshaft and stuff a raquetball in the yoke and reinstall driveshaft.....

it fixed my bro inlaws on his 01.....been that way for 30000miles.....

I think it's a great idea - every shaft oughta have at least ONE ball...

mine has a clunk when i put it in gear doesnt matter what gear .

would this be the same problem or is it my u-joints?

I think it's a great idea - every shaft oughta have at least ONE ball...

:rofl:

mine has a clunk when i put it in gear doesnt matter what gear .

would this be the same problem or is it my u-joints?

That sounds like it might be u-joints, or just play somewhere else in the driveline. I'm not even sure mine is the same thing this thread is about. It doesn't clunk when I take off, put it in gear, anything like that. Only when I come to a complete stop. I can make it not do it by pumping the brakes a little and easing to a stop, but if I just slow down and stop normally by pressing the pedal and holding it, it will usually clunk a little. It sounds and feels like it's coming from the right area to be the shaft where it goes into the tranny though...

Brought my truck to dealer last week, and I noticed a can of racquet balls on one of the mechanics tool box. I didn't think anything of it, at the time. I was there to have them replace the center console cover (it snapped right off the springs, 2000 miles on truck.

Brought my truck to dealer last week, and I noticed a can of racquet balls on one of the mechanics tool box.

That's awesome. :rofl: Did it gave a GM part number?

That's awesome. :rofl: Did it gave a GM part number?



Yea the part # said "Pro Penn worlds finest"

I was thinking of trying this. Anybody have any pictures?? Just curious to see someone stuff an entire racquetball inside a yoke. I havent had my yoke off yet but every other yoke I've ever seen there is no way possible to stuff a racquetball in there. I'm willing to try it if it works, better than $250.00 for a new yoke.

I find this post quite interesting. I don't think a raquet ball would hurt anything, but is seems a cheesy way to fix this. I bought a used 01 silverado, and after driving it a couple weeks with the chirp/clunk, I had to do something. I tried some grease (not the "special grease"), and it helped for a very short time. I purchased a new slip yoke (came with u-joint) and picked up a new rear u-joint and the clunk is gone. I was nervous about changing u-joints in the aluminum drive shaft, but with the u-joint tool from Harbor Freight and a little TLC, it was pretty simple.

For those of you completely annoyed by the clunk, I recommend giving this a shot.

I could be way off, but I have a manual trans. and I've never had the clunk! However I did blow up the posi-unit on a burnout.The guys at drivetrain specialists told me the factory supplied Eaton unit in the diff. is famous for the clunk and it's what keeps them in business replacing them! I replaced it with an Auburn unit and absolutely love it!

I could be way off, but I have a manual trans. and I've never had the clunk! However I did blow up the posi-unit on a burnout.The guys at drivetrain specialists told me the factory supplied Eaton unit in the diff. is famous for the clunk and it's what keeps them in business replacing them! I replaced it with an Auburn unit and absolutely love it!


How much did the install cost??

Well all together ring and pinion included about 900.00. not bad considering the factory eaton unit from the dealer was around 8 bills by itself! the Auburn unit is about half as much and nowhere near as problematic, replaced the ring and pinion cause the eaton unit took the stock one out! Also the 900 include labor from my friends shop:)

Well all together ring and pinion included about 900.00. not bad considering the factory eaton unit from the dealer was around 8 bills by itself! the Auburn unit is about half as much and nowhere near as problematic, replaced the ring and pinion cause the eaton unit took the stock one out! Also the 900 include labor from my friends shop:)

Thanks for the repy.

Not a bad deal.

The one thing my truck does not have is the posi.

How long did it take for the install?

My friend did it in about half a day! I'm not that mechanically inclined so he does all the hard stuff, the only thing was we weren't sure on axle bearing size, chevy seemed to have used 2 sizes.I love the new unit and it didn't take long to get over the fear of that haunting broken gear sound, it seems to hook up quite well now! I got the parts from a place here in MI called drivetrain specialists.

this came STRAIGHT from a gm tech.....

to fix the clunk in the drivetrain from a dead stop(chirp, clunk, bump...etc...) pull the driveshaft and stuff a raquetball in the yoke and reinstall driveshaft.....

it fixed my bro inlaws on his 01.....been that way for 30000miles.....

I have a '99 z71 ext. cab and the "clunk" was terrible in it. I put a raquetball in it this week and it is 100% better. Now let me tell you the easy part of the job...getting the ball all the way in the yoke. I finally got it in by making a tiny hole in the ball so the air could escape and it could collapse. I then used a broom handle to ram it all the way in the yoke tube aling with a little grease to help it. Now here comes the hard part...installing the driveshaft back in the truck. Since you now have a raquetball as a "spring" inside the yoke you have to compress it to get the rear u-joints back into the pinion shaft yoke. I hade to use a come-a-long for this part. I took the ratcheting end of the come-a-long and hooked it onto the cross member that is right below the tailshaft and then wrapped the cable end around the driveshaft right in front of the ears on the driveshaft itself. Then slowly take up on the com-a-long while push up on the driveshaft until it clears the pinion yoke. This is where a second man comes in handy. Now as you guide the rear u-joints back into the pinion yoke let the second man let the com-a-long off easy. Then your done with the hard part. It was amazing to shift the truck back and forth from R to D here just about nothing. It does work and I even had a GM Service manager tell me that there shop thinks it is a good fix for this problem.