First time on this board, I'm new to Dodge but not to cars.
96 Ram 360 v8 engine. The rear 4 cylinders are not running due to a max of 3 volts pulsing to the injectors(DC measured), whereas the front 4 cylinders are getting 9+ volts! It starts and runs fine, even though it's only running on the front 4 cylinders. I can unplug all 4 rear injectors and no change!
I've checked(before finding the voltage to the injectors problem):
Plugs/wires/cap/rotor(NEW)
CTS-read 1.6Kohms, but no real change when jumped or not.
timing chain
battery cables/wires
for vacuum leaks-intake etc.--none.
MAP sensor-OK
TPS sensor-OK
IAC--works good--adjusts for any changes.
Computer--tried swapping with a salvage one to no avail.

Can someone please help!?

I'd trace the wires and check for a common place that the wires for those 4 injectors run to; there may be some corrosion somewhere along that path.

Sounds like a pretty good idea. I'm going back at 1pm today(tues.10-4) to continue checking a bit. I'm going to check if the rear injectors are getting a full 12 volts. If it's a power problem and the computer supplies power, I could just install a relay to give those 4 injectors power. Now if it's just that the computer is not completing the ground circuit, then I have a bigger problem. Maybe I can also read the voltage at the computer and see if it's trying to ground but not making it to the injectors. My biggest problem is that I don't have a wiring diagram, which means buying an FSM for $150. Suck. I'll probably end up telling him I can't fix it unless he wants to PAY. He said he doesn't want to spend any more money on it, he'll sell it for $1000 though. It's got 140K miles on it. I may buy it, but it's a big hassle to buy and then re-sell a vehicle. Licensing alone is like $150. Eh, anyway, here I go, we'll see if anything pops up.

I know that on later years, when Dodge started using the distributorless systems, that there were 2 coils so that the engine could continue home if one failed. You may have a similar set up in the wiring. Bummer not having the wiring diagram, but I'd think you would be able to trace things back from each injector.

Well, I just got back from the job. I brought my noid light this time and checked the injector connectors with it--they were all the same. I still have no clue why the front 4 would be 9+ volts and the rears 3 yesterday, but onwards... I listened to the rear injectors with a stethoscope and they WERE ticking, same as fronts. So then I was almost sure the injectors were the problem. Upon pulling them out I found heavy sediment in them clogging them all up. After cleaning with brake clean(just to see), the truck ran infinitely better, but some of the injectors still aren't flowing, so we may have them ultrasonically cleaned. They said they had just replaced the pump and sock inside the tank already, which is weird that there would be so much sediment in the injectors now. It was like wet powdered sugar. So anyways, I don't know if he'll have me FIX the problem or not(read:$$), but at least it's running on like 5-6 cylinders now well, and the other 2-3 partially. :)

His truck will only have the one coil.

His truck will only have the one coil.

Thanks, Bleed (long time no see)

Funsami, sounds like you may have tracked it down. If the injectors are filled with sediment....that sounds like "it".

That truck could probably use new injectors by now anyway.

Yea, it definitely needs new injectors, but the owner just wants to "fix" it... I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and I'm going to clean them in injector cleaner with the ultrasonic going and then give them some power to open and close them while it's going. Should get the rest of any crud left in them. Basically he's buying me the cleaner for my work to clean all 8 injectors. Not bad considering they usually charge $30 per injector for the same type of cleaning.

On a side note--I worked on a '90 Dodge Dakota 4 cylinder yesterday. It had a bogging down, then jumping back to power problem. As far as I know it is fixed--I found the owner had put in new plug wires and not inserted the ends into the disty cap far enough. The spark was having to jump like 1/2" to get to the wires!! Just another tidbit of info for the searchers out there. :)

If you're going to have the injectors out to clean them, maybe try to switch one in the back for one of the ones in front first. If it works find, you'll know it's not the dirty injector, but rather the voltage issue.