Just replaced my 91's rear air struts
DioGreer
09-26-2005, 10:13 PM
My 91 ultra's air struts finally kicked the bucket on me after slowly becoming worse and worse. The air compressor was running nonstop and I disconnected it. Went to Napa auto parts and bought 2 rear air struts and 2 front struts. Paid $340 for everything (including tax). I probably could have found a better deal, but my car was just bottoming out too much.
If you decide to do this, make sure you read the instructions completely (duh) before taking anything off. I will list the procedure and mistakes I made.
Preparations: Disconnect the compressor power connector or negative battery cable.
1. Remove the back seat. Pull up the seat bottom from the back and slide it free from the hooks it seats in. Use a 1" socket to remove the thin metal nuts securing the bottom outside of the seat back. Use a 18mm socket to remove the middle seatbelt nuts. Remove the seat back by lifting it up and then you have access to one of the rear shock top nuts.
(I found out the hard way I had to remove the back seat. Its the only way to access the front top strut nut. Its easier to remove the back seat with the car not jacked up)
2. Pull out the plastic friction pins that hold up the inside trunk cover, giving access to the other top strut nut.
(be careful to not let the speakers fall down, some of the plastic pins secure to the speaker mounts)
3. Set the emergency brake and loosen the rear tire lug nuts (always easier to loosen the nuts while the car is on the ground)
4. Chock the front tires as a precaution to prevent any forward movement.
5. Use a floor jack to jack the rear end up from the center of the rear suspension support (between the tires). Place jackstands beside the floor jack to prevent sudden falling if something happens to the floor jack. If you dont have a floor jack, jack up each side separately and use jack stands to hold the rear end up
6. Remove the tires
7. Use another jack to hold up the control arm of the first side you are working on.
(I didnt do this the first time and the control arm swung down and hit the ground when I unbolted the strut. Luckily the spring didnt pop out)
8. Disconnect the air line from the strut. Dont lose the pin!
9. Remove the nuts holding on the top of the strut using a 15mm socket. One is accesible from removing the back seat and the other is accessible from the trunk.
10. Remove the two bolts and nuts holding on the bottom of the strut. The bolts use a 21mm socket and 15/16" worked for the nut. (It might have been metric, but I didnt have a metric socket that big) Use two wrenches when removing these nuts and bolts. (I would have loved to have access to an impact wrench to do this part)
11. Remove the old strut and take the top bracket off using a T50 torx and 15/16" (again could be metric) open end or box set wrench. You can use a socket to loosen the nut, but you have to use a torx and wrench to get it off.
12. The brake drum might fall off due to the tilt of the unsupported brake assembly. Take it off or secure it.
13. Remount the top bracket to the new strut. The new strut I had used an allen head instead of a torx. (dont remember the size of the allen) Get it on as tight as you can, but its not going to go down all the way.
13. Install the strut and secure the top nuts. Torque to 35 lb ft. (be careful to not let a nut fall down the gap between the metal pieces separating the trunk and back seat. I spent 15 minutes with a magnet getting the nut out :()
14. Install the nuts and bolts securing the bottom of the strut. Torque to 155 lb ft.
15. Reconnect the air line.
16. Lightly pressurize the air struts by grounding the compressor test lead in the engine compartment.
17. Reinstall the tires (and brake drum if removed)
18. Lower the car off the jack/jackstands and tighten lug nuts.
19. Reinstall back seat and inside trunk cover
20. Get alignment done soon after installation is complete
What a pain the first one was, but once I figured out the procedure, the second one went well. Took me about 3.5 hours. Runs like a champ, what a great ride it gives now. I will probably do the front struts tomorrow or wednesday.
I will post my experiences with the front struts soon!
If you decide to do this, make sure you read the instructions completely (duh) before taking anything off. I will list the procedure and mistakes I made.
Preparations: Disconnect the compressor power connector or negative battery cable.
1. Remove the back seat. Pull up the seat bottom from the back and slide it free from the hooks it seats in. Use a 1" socket to remove the thin metal nuts securing the bottom outside of the seat back. Use a 18mm socket to remove the middle seatbelt nuts. Remove the seat back by lifting it up and then you have access to one of the rear shock top nuts.
(I found out the hard way I had to remove the back seat. Its the only way to access the front top strut nut. Its easier to remove the back seat with the car not jacked up)
2. Pull out the plastic friction pins that hold up the inside trunk cover, giving access to the other top strut nut.
(be careful to not let the speakers fall down, some of the plastic pins secure to the speaker mounts)
3. Set the emergency brake and loosen the rear tire lug nuts (always easier to loosen the nuts while the car is on the ground)
4. Chock the front tires as a precaution to prevent any forward movement.
5. Use a floor jack to jack the rear end up from the center of the rear suspension support (between the tires). Place jackstands beside the floor jack to prevent sudden falling if something happens to the floor jack. If you dont have a floor jack, jack up each side separately and use jack stands to hold the rear end up
6. Remove the tires
7. Use another jack to hold up the control arm of the first side you are working on.
(I didnt do this the first time and the control arm swung down and hit the ground when I unbolted the strut. Luckily the spring didnt pop out)
8. Disconnect the air line from the strut. Dont lose the pin!
9. Remove the nuts holding on the top of the strut using a 15mm socket. One is accesible from removing the back seat and the other is accessible from the trunk.
10. Remove the two bolts and nuts holding on the bottom of the strut. The bolts use a 21mm socket and 15/16" worked for the nut. (It might have been metric, but I didnt have a metric socket that big) Use two wrenches when removing these nuts and bolts. (I would have loved to have access to an impact wrench to do this part)
11. Remove the old strut and take the top bracket off using a T50 torx and 15/16" (again could be metric) open end or box set wrench. You can use a socket to loosen the nut, but you have to use a torx and wrench to get it off.
12. The brake drum might fall off due to the tilt of the unsupported brake assembly. Take it off or secure it.
13. Remount the top bracket to the new strut. The new strut I had used an allen head instead of a torx. (dont remember the size of the allen) Get it on as tight as you can, but its not going to go down all the way.
13. Install the strut and secure the top nuts. Torque to 35 lb ft. (be careful to not let a nut fall down the gap between the metal pieces separating the trunk and back seat. I spent 15 minutes with a magnet getting the nut out :()
14. Install the nuts and bolts securing the bottom of the strut. Torque to 155 lb ft.
15. Reconnect the air line.
16. Lightly pressurize the air struts by grounding the compressor test lead in the engine compartment.
17. Reinstall the tires (and brake drum if removed)
18. Lower the car off the jack/jackstands and tighten lug nuts.
19. Reinstall back seat and inside trunk cover
20. Get alignment done soon after installation is complete
What a pain the first one was, but once I figured out the procedure, the second one went well. Took me about 3.5 hours. Runs like a champ, what a great ride it gives now. I will probably do the front struts tomorrow or wednesday.
I will post my experiences with the front struts soon!
volkerc
09-27-2005, 04:04 PM
thanks for sharing.
HotZ28
09-27-2005, 05:19 PM
Good info and thanks again for sharing! I agree with every step in the procedure except the removal of the rear seat to access the top strut bolts. I have a 92 PAU (basically the same car) and was able to access all the top strut bolts from inside the trunk. I wonder why you had to take the back seat out??
DioGreer
09-27-2005, 09:11 PM
Good info and thanks again for sharing! I agree with every step in the procedure except the removal of the rear seat to access the top strut bolts. I have a 92 PAU (basically the same car) and was able to access all the top strut bolts from inside the trunk. I wonder why you had to take the back seat out??
The service manual said that it might not be necessary to remove the back seat. I had to remove it. It was the only way to get to the front nuts. I guess they modified the design on later models to avoid having to remove the back seat. It is a pain to deal with, but you do find all kinds of neat stuff when you take the seat out. :) (found about $1 in change and several pens)
The service manual said that it might not be necessary to remove the back seat. I had to remove it. It was the only way to get to the front nuts. I guess they modified the design on later models to avoid having to remove the back seat. It is a pain to deal with, but you do find all kinds of neat stuff when you take the seat out. :) (found about $1 in change and several pens)
volkerc
09-29-2005, 06:14 AM
(found about $1 in change and several pens)
...and they say work does not pay off...
...and they say work does not pay off...
kennycu
12-11-2005, 08:01 PM
Well that's nice you had such an easy time replacing your rear struts. I just got done wrestling with the lower bolts and they still aren't out! They are locked in solid. Well, at least the bottom one is. I finally got the top one out after much persuation. I soaked the bottom bolt in PB Blaster for the night and will try again tomorrow.The nuts came off fine. The bolts seemed to be rusted in by the stabilizer mount. Can't even turn them. What a PITA. Any suggestions are welcome.
It did look like it was going to be an easy job...seat out..top bolts easy....bottom bolts...UH-OH!!!
It did look like it was going to be an easy job...seat out..top bolts easy....bottom bolts...UH-OH!!!
kaspr
12-12-2005, 04:26 PM
kennycu, I just did this job, and I agree that those lower strut mounting bolts are the problem. what worked for me is to take a 1/2" drive breaker bar with an extension (3" or so), and put the 15/16" socket (or whatever it is) on it, and either stand on the breaker bar and jump until the bolt turns, or squat with your back to the car and use your legs to pull the breaker bar up (whichever way works best for you), and that will at least get the bolt turned. Then spray it some more and start hammering on it with a nice hammer. Then use a punch or a 3/8" drive extension to punch the bolt through once it gets into the hole. Hope that works for you.
Kaspr
Kaspr
kennycu
12-12-2005, 08:59 PM
Thanks for the reply. I blew out a socket last night and it's too cold tonight. I'll try again tomorrow. I had a pipe on the end of my 1/2" ratchet and thought I got it loose. Went for the second crank and only got another knuckle buster. Socket was toast. Stinks to be one bolt away from a complete job.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2024