Let me see if I can explain this problem.....
I start my car and everything runs fine, I put the car in reverse everything is fine, then I put the car in drive and drive it about less then 100 yards and my car shuts off and then my battery cuts on and everything is fine expect the engine is off. So I put the car back in park and restart it and then it runs fine. Now, if i run my car for a little bit and then but the car in reverse and then drive everything is fine.
I was told the problem could be the PCM chip, they said it needs to be replaced. They say the chip needs to warm up that's why if I warm up the car then drive it everything is fine.

Is it the PCM chip or computer chip the problem or is it something else.......

How many miles are on your GTP and is it stock or modded? I've never heard of a PCM needing warm up so it's probably something else.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Let me see if I can explain this problem.....
I start my car and everything runs fine, I put the car in reverse everything is fine, then I put the car in drive and drive it about less then 100 yards and my car shuts off and then my battery cuts on and everything is fine expect the engine is off. So I put the car back in park and restart it and then it runs fine. Now, if i run my car for a little bit and then but the car in reverse and then drive everything is fine.
I was told the problem could be the PCM chip, they said it needs to be replaced. They say the chip needs to warm up that's why if I warm up the car then drive it everything is fine.

Is it the PCM chip or computer chip the problem or is it something else.......

98,000 miles on the car and the car is stocked..... someone suggested that it could either be the fuel injectors ( and if it is, they said they would need to be cleaned) or it could be the alternator but that wouldn't really make any sense....

I read another thread and it might sound like it is the crankshaft position sensor, but I don't have problems cranking the car, it starts with no problem...

any thoughs.......

98,000 miles on the car and the car is stocked..... someone suggested that it could either be the fuel injectors ( and if it is, they said they would need to be cleaned) or it could be the alternator but that wouldn't really make any sense....

I'm a little confused on the description of your problem. When it cuts off are you losing lights and instrumentation. How well does it crank over?






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I'm a little confused on the description of your problem. When it cuts off are you losing lights and instrumentation. How well does it crank over?






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

when it cuts off I am not losing lights or anything.... it's the like battery just restartes but the engine is still off
never have a problem starting the car, doesn't make any clicking sounds or what.....

when it cuts off I am not losing lights or anything.... it's the like battery just restartes but the engine is still off
never have a problem starting the car, doesn't make any clicking sounds or what.....

Your battery and alternator are probably OK. I sent you a PM on other possibilities.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I have had a in the tank electric fuel pump do that in a 88 ford T-bird turbo coupe.... don't know if that is any help? :confused:

Sounds more like a crankshaft position sensor to me. But just for general principle I would check fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) first which should tell you if the fuel pump, fuel pump relays, fuel filter or fuel pump resistor are causing the problem.

With vaccum off the pressure reading will be in a range of 48 - 55 psi. The median is 52 psi. With vacuum connected at the FPR it will read a 4 to 7 psi drop (less) but nothing under 45 psi.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.