My 1999 Honda stalls while driving! Nobody can fix! HELP!

Hello,
I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX coupe. For over a year now, I have been experiencing the following problems.

1. Initially, it started out that if I would drive the car for a little while then shut it off to do a small errand (i.e. grab the mail), it would not restart for about 10-15 minutes. I would hear an extended cranking type noise. It began as very intermittent.
2. My car then progressed to stalling on me when I was either stopped at a red light or slowing down to take a turn.
3. NOW, my car regularly stalls in the middle of the road WHILE I AM DRIVING! This is very scary!

I have had my car looked at like 8 times! The first 2 times at a Honda dealer, they told me they "could not duplicate" the problem. Then I took it to a non-dealer, who referred me back to the dealer b/c they couldn't figure it out. So I went to a different Honda dealer and they first replaced the ignition switch. That didn't work. Then they replaced the immobilizer system, and that didn't work. Then they told me I needed a whole new computer for my car and that would cost $1260. I declined further service b/c I didn't feel confident that this was the true problem. So then I brought it to ANOTHER non-dealer who then replaced the ignition module control and then a coil pack. NOTHING HAS WORKED! I don't know what else to do at this point! Can anyone tell me what this could be!?

There was a recall for some 1997-2000 Accords for the IGNITION SWITCH, but they told me that my car doesn't fall under that recall. I think I might have to trade her in because nobody can fix it ! Please help! Thank you!!!

Sounds like they have looked at all the things I would expect to be the problem except the main relay. Because it is an intermittent problem, troubleshooting will probably come down to replacing all those items, one at a time, that could cause the problem. Start with the most likely ones then go to the cheap items. The ECU could be the cause but I would think you would get an ECU code. You might try a used ECU to see if the problem goes away. If that doesn 't fix the problem, you might be able to sell it back to the junkyard at a lower price then you paid.

Thank you. What is the ECU??

I don't believe that there are any codes coming up? Could the main relay not give off any code?

The ECU is hte car's computer. When you get a Check Engine light, your ECU stores a specific code that can be retreived and tell you what hte specific problem is.

As far as the main relay, if you are having a wire in that area intermittantly becoming loose, moist, or grounding out or something, that could be the problem.

I am not getting any "Check Engine" light.

Is it possible that 1 thing is causing the car to not start and something else is causing the car to stall while driving? Meaning, could TWO things be wrong w/ my car, or does anyone think that ONE thing is causing both?

I know nothing about cars....

The dealer who told me it was the computer wrote on the invoice (after replacing the immobilizer ring and ignition switch):

"Replaced Immbolization Ring. Key Immob. Light will not come on - Intermitt rec om'd pcm. Customer aware and declined".

I have NO idea what any of that means.

"Replaced Immbolization Ring. Key Immob. Light will not come on - Intermitt rec om'd pcm. Customer aware and declined".

The head of your key has a resistor in it and when you put in in the ignition, the Immoblization ring detects this resistance and allows you start the car. The ring wraps around the ignition switch right where you stick your key in. The rest of that is just mechanic talk.

I had an Accord with the EXACT same sysmptoms as yours. I had several mechanics look at it and no one knew anything. Then I met a man that saved my baby! He found that the little chip inside the distributor was burned out, and causing the intermittant stalling. I cant remember what the part is called but it controls your electronic timing. If I remember correctly, we had to replace the entire distibutor because the chip was soldered onto it. We got a used distributor from the junk yard, and it worked great for years! I dont know if this is your problem, but you really dont many more choices left, and ECU's are expensive, even at junk yards.

i had a diffrent kind of vehicle that was doing simular to yours and we replaced all kinds of parts and came to find out it was a ground wire make sure you check all you grounds and power wires especially at the distributor and alternator and starter. good luck. if you do find out what it is please let us know. thanks

Thank you. What is the ECU??

I don't believe that there are any codes coming up? Could the main relay not give off any code?
Find the ECU. Sometimes when electrical parts get hot,they crap out. Start the car, and use a hair dryer to heat up the engine shuts down. Replace the ecu if it does. First check out the EGR valve. if it sticks open it will stall the engine.

When it dies while driving, does it start back up right away, or does it have to sit or have extended cranking time before restarting?

If it's hard to restart, does giving it some gas pedal seem to help it?

Does it seem to die the instant you drop the gas pedal when it happens, or is there a period when it's idling fine and then it stalls?

at the moment the car doesnt start up again, thats the best time to check for fuel, spark, power, and cam timing. it will make your pinpointing of the problem much easier.

good luck.

try this, you may not get a engine check light but put the car in the ON position, pump the gas 5 times, and look at the check engine light, it will flash, it will flash how ever many times, count how many times it flashs, record the number, it will give you a sec or 2, then another time it will give you anther number, it will eventually stop and you will have a code, find what the code means by doing a search on google, so you can have a better guess on the problem

My brother has a civic that did the same thing he changed samething in the distributor that timmytim in post above mentioned.
Jeff

Guys, guys - supercoup8 woke this thread up - it's 3 months old. I doubt lvpj is still sitting there scratching his/her head, wondering what an ECU is.

Did anyone get this problem fixed? My car does the same thing now. I was stalling before and I changed the IAC valve and it went away but it did it again today after 5 months. Anyone have an idea why it won't start and it started to stall again let me know.

I got mine fixed it was the coil inside the distributor when it got hot it would not start or when you where driving sometimes just die at a light or stop sign hope you find the problem good luck

In the useless information dept, my cousin bought a NEW Dodge Neon (I know...she had it coming) that exihibited a very similar syndrome. 3 ECMs and two complete wiring harnesses later, along with hundreds of diagnostic hours (it was in the shop over 3 weeks, off and on) and other assorted parts, the Dodge zone rep authorized the dealer to take the car back and give her full value on another vehicle.

They said it was going back to the factory to be torn down to find the problem. Personally, I think that sounds like a good fate for all Neons.

That thing inside the distrubutor is called "igniter". Which creates the spark at the plug. It costs about $120 new (dealer). But I remember seeing a table cross reference the electronics manufacturers' part number for the ingiter module. The part costs couple dollars only. Did anyone ever seen that table?

Hello, I have a similar problem with my 99 accord. Last winter it would start to shut off, it felt like someone was pressing the brake while I had the gas pedal to the floor and sometimes it would pick up and keep going. We ahd the ignition recall fixed and haven't had any problems unitl now. But it is getting colder again so I guess we didn't fix it. There is no check engine light that comes on. Any suggestions about what could cause this problem.

it is your main relay. it turns off ,then won t start for some time. i had the same problem. but it took me soon time to figure it out. it is located under your dash, driver side in between your steering collum and your driver fuse panel.it is a gray box 1.5inch wide by 2.5inch long by1.5inch in depth. junk yard cost 20$, junk yard taking it off 5$, your nieghbor putting it on-$priceles:popcorn: