Engine removal 3VZE

Do I HAVE to pull the automatic trans with the motor? Also my antifreeze was pinkish.What does that mean?

No, the engine can be removed with the transmission still attached.

Also, no, you can remove the motor without the transmission. I bet the pink antifreeze color is fine rust particles.

the motor comes out without the tranny, all u have to do to separate the motor from the trans is remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts ( six of them). There is a cover between the engine and the trans that u remove, then u can gain access to them. Then you remove all the transmission bellhousing bolts , and they will separate. the harder part is getting them back together, your gonna need to support the tranny and lift it a little with a floor jack. best to take out the radiator so when your using a cherry picker you dont ram into it. hope this helps.

toyota brand coolant is pink

Its been awhile but it was a SUCCESS! Just unbolt the flywheel and the bell housing. the 17mm swivel is critical. And yes Toyota antifreeze is pink.:) This was my fifth engine pull and is was a breeze. Do you have any suggestions on how to gai n HP at the machine shop?

The only real way to get any more horse power is to add headrers and get rid of the fan and put an electric one attached to the radiator. The afn alone is like 10 hp cause you take off a 20lb weight off the motor=less effect for the motor. If you bore it out any make sure to get really good head bolts cause the 3vze is notorious for the headgasket goin poopy on it cyl #1 & #6 and thats my $.02 check these links for some of the stuff
Fan= http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/churnd_fan/churnd.htm

Headers= http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/churnd_headers/churnd.htm

Itake silencer= http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/blu_intake/blu.htm

Only girly men use pink antifreeze :)

The head gasket issue with this motor is NOT a head bolt problem.
It is a design problem with the heads at those locations due to the delta in expansion coefficients between cast iron and aluminum.
Make sure you use OEM gasket materials as the have been redesigned to combat this issue.
Good luck.

Gettin better than oem head bolts can be torqued a few more lbs and help prevent the whole head gasket prob :)

The main reason to torque ANYTHING is to prevent thread compromise.
Once threads have been overtorqued it is only a matter of time. I have seen this happen at the track many times over torque has compromised the threads then under extreme conditions sustained hi rpms and heat the threads move enough to release pressure on the gasket then wtf you don't even finish.
Plus,
These are not standard torque to spec bolt designs.
They should NEVER be reused once heated.
They are actually torqued to a spec then STRETCHED another 1/2 turn 1/4 turn at a time. The torque actually gets easier in the last two steps.
They should NEVER be reused once heated.

The real problem is the surface areas on the outer edges of the #1 & #6 cylinders is a lot smaller and is subjected to higher thermal gradients then internal gasket areas.
Read below:

Bimetal Stress
One factor that makes many engines hard to seal today is aluminum cylinder heads on cast iron blocks. Aluminum heads save weight but expand 1.7 times faster than cast iron when they get hot. The difference in expansion rates creates a lot of motion and scrubbing between the head and the block. If the head gasket can’t handle this motion and isn’t strong enough to withstand the shearing forces that occur every time the engine is started, run and allowed to cool back down, it will eventually leak.

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us80222.htm

Monies spent on OEM gaskets designed to combat this issue will be well spent.

The only real way to get any more horse power is to add headrers and get rid of the fan and put an electric one attached to the radiator. The afn alone is like 10 hp cause you take off a 20lb weight off the motor=less effect for the motor. If you bore it out any make sure to get really good head bolts cause the 3vze is notorious for the headgasket goin poopy on it cyl #1 & #6 and thats my $.02 check these links for some of the stuff
Fan= http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/churnd_fan/churnd.htm

Headers= http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/churnd_headers/churnd.htm

Itake silencer= http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/blu_intake/blu.htm

Make sure you keep the original fan with you if you plan on doing any off- roading. Frankly, I'm still a little traumatized by the one that broke on me, in the middle of Baja (no parts house nearby, no tow truck, no AAA, no nothing. I don't think it'll give you 10 HP. It did seem a little bit more jumppy of the line but that's it, and it did cool very well in the desert, when it worked.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=498214

The one PLUS to electric is less noise, I hat the looks I get just starting out when it's cold.

That damn clutch driven fan is loud as hell startin in the morning

Hey, Thanks for the insight on the head bolts. I was wondering why I cant reuse my old ones. My machine shop gave me new ones. So what shound I do with the old ones? I could make a new grill.
Assembly lube goes on the crankshaft journals? Could someone tell me everywhere assym. lube goes. Thanks.

Assembly lube every moving part as they will be DRY until oil is primed.
If you are putting the bottom end together, sounds like it, DOUBLE CHECK that the block crank & heads are THOROUGHLY cleaned!!!!
I had a block delivered from the machinist but it still had the metal shavings in the oil galleys.
Keep your fingers CLEAN!! Clean enough to eat with when assembling the bearings a fresh supply of new grease rags is a must.
Plaasti-guage each bearing mains and rods to ensure that the proper clearance was machined into the crank.
Your shop more than likely ordered the crank as a kit rather than do the machining themselves.
.