91 timing belt replaced

I recently changed my timing belt. I had to change the oil seals too, so I removed the sprockets. I lined the marks all up and tried to get the belt on without moving anything. Everything went back together and it started. It lacked power and when I checked the timing it was now on 0 degrees instead of 8 degrees before top dead center. I adjusted the timing and got it right. I must have moved one of the sprockets a little. It runs fine now with the timing adjusted. Will it hurt it to leave it or should I tear it apart and realign the marks and put it back together?

if its running fine there shouldnt be a problem with leaving it.. imo.. but if you have the time and feel it better to tear it all apart and put it back together have at it.. but if it was me and she ran good, i'd leave it..

if its running fine there shouldnt be a problem with leaving it.. imo.. but if you have the time and feel it better to tear it all apart and put it back together have at it.. but if it was me and she ran good, i'd leave it..

OK, it ran bad when I first started it, had no power and all. I decided to tear it apart again. I marked the distributer nuber one wire and turned the crank until the rotor lined up with the number one wire and the crank pulley mark lined up with the 0 on the timing belt cover. I took the pulley and cover off and the cam gear tick mark is pointed down at the crank instead of up at the mark on the cam cover like the haynes book says it should be. Could it be that far off, 180 degrees almost, and still run? Do I just take the belt off and turn the cam gear clock wise until the marks align? That makes the rotor 180 degrees out so what do I do about that. The haynes book says something at the beginning of the timing belt replacement section about removing the cam cover and loosening all the valve adjusting nuts. Do I have to do that? Why would you do that just to change the timing belt? I don't want to mess up the valve clearances if I don't have to, but I don't want to break anything either. I didn't take the distributer out ever so how could the marks on the cam be off from the rotor. How could it have been running? I am really getting confused. What is up with this thing?

Marc

PS
OK so now what I did was line up the marks on the cam and crank with their correct marks. I marked the rotor where it was and then turned it to point at the number one tower. I put it all back together and tried to start it. It wouldn't start. I couldn't get it to time right at all with the light. Turned the crank until the pulley mark was on the 0 of the timing cover and the rotor pointed at the number one wire. I took the distributor out and turned the rotor 180 degrees to line up with the mark I made earlier. It fired right up. I have to short the check connector and time it like the hood says, but it is starting as of now. I have to time it and take it for a spin, but I am really confused why it is set up the way it is. I will see how it runs, first lunch.

marc

Just changed the timing belt in my 1995 16v engine and also found the timing marks to be 180 out of wack. The Haynes manual was no help. Good thing the belt had not broken. If I had lined up the marks per the manual I would be way off.

I would like to know what the dealer service manual says about doing the timing belt and how to line it up. I thought about buying one just to see. I wish someone had one and could look it up. My tracker runs fine with it like that and it has been doing good. My wife loves driving the thing around in the winter because it goes so good and it is so small it fits almost anywhere. It does tend to be unusual at times when working on it and the Haynes manual usually doesn't help. I wonder how good the dealer service manual would be. I have one for my Pontiac sunfire and my cavaliers and they are not laid out very well, ie... hard to find and understand what you need, the drawings and pictures are not clear. I have a dealer manual for my Dodge van and it is great, lots of pictures and very detailed, very easy to find what you need. GM maybe needs to get new writers. To Whom it may concern at GM I need more detailed pictures and detailed instructions. I wonder if they heard me?

Marc

I would like to know what the dealer service manual says about doing the timing belt and how to line it up. I thought about buying one just to see. I wish someone had one and could look it up. My tracker runs fine with it like that and it has been doing good. My wife loves driving the thing around in the winter because it goes so good and it is so small it fits almost anywhere. It does tend to be unusual at times when working on it and the Haynes manual usually doesn't help. I wonder how good the dealer service manual would be. I have one for my Pontiac sunfire and my cavaliers and they are not laid out very well, ie... hard to find and understand what you need, the drawings and pictures are not clear. I have a dealer manual for my Dodge van and it is great, lots of pictures and very detailed, very easy to find what you need. GM maybe needs to get new writers. To Whom it may concern at GM I need more detailed pictures and detailed instructions. I wonder if they heard me?

Marc
I changed the timing belt as I had 52k and 12 years on the belt and did not want it to break and ruin the engine. The job was straight foward and I was done in less the 5 hours and that was reading the manual many times.
Haynes directions do not match the timing marks. I marked the pulleys when I removed the old belt and since it was running fine I kept them the same when installing the new belt. Not a bad job.
Don

I have both the Haynes and the Chiltons manuals for my 92. The Haynes :screwy: is used as a door stop. Enough said.

Does anyone know where and how to short the connecter so I can set the timming.