How to install plugs/plug wires

I just bought a 98 Windstar last week. It has 147000 miles on it. I found a vacuum leak, fixed it and it cuts out worse than before. The service engine soon light flashes at me when it is running very choppy.
I had AutoZone checks the codes and it is misfiring on #2. I bought plugs and plug wires but I cannot figure out how to change the ones in the back of the engine. How in the world do I access that to get them changed? Of course that is where #2 is located. From the look of it, these are the original wires and plugs! Hope this fixes it :o)

I just bought a 98 Windstar last week. It has 147000 miles on it. I found a vacuum leak, fixed it and it cuts out worse than before. The service engine soon light flashes at me when it is running very choppy.
I had AutoZone checks the codes and it is misfiring on #2. I bought plugs and plug wires but I cannot figure out how to change the ones in the back of the engine. How in the world do I access that to get them changed? Of course that is where #2 is located. From the look of it, these are the original wires and plugs! Hope this fixes it :o)


You will have to remove the crowl that sits on the top where the wipers are, I would suggest that you do this when then engine is cool. You may want to also check the Intake manifold control accuators,AKA IMRC control valves. They are known to go bad on all windstars...

http://www.fivestarford.com

I changed my rear spark plugs from under the car.
I drove the front up onto ramps.....let engine cool as you will be hugging a catalytic converter.
Slide back under the car....so that you are looking up.....just in front of the firewall. You will be able to see and reach up to the spark plugs.

You will want to use ONLY Motorcraft double platinumn spark plugs. They have the platinumn enhancement on both the center and ground electrodes.

I have not done mine from the bottom but if Wiswind says that he has and it wasn't too bad then I would take that as accurate.

I did mine from the top. Removing the cowl was not difficult but I still found reaching for the plugs I could not see to be difficult. Taking the boots off was hard too. The job in all was not that difficult but I would be interested in trying from underneath next time if I could actually see a bit better.

Ditto the double Platinum statement from Wiswind. As far as I know only the Motorcraft and Autolites come with Platinum on both centre and side electrodes which is required for our vehicles. Bosch Platinums including the double platinums and Platinum 4's DO NOT have platinum on the side electrodes. (Don't let the cost fool you). Do not use them.

Changing the spark plugs is something I'm gonna have to do before winter hits. Me, I'll be doing it from the top, since at my age (51), crawling under the car is getting to be a bit difficult, and I don't recover as quick as I did in my 20s.

From the top...is still a bend for the back......which is one reason I do them from underneath
The other reason....is that the fewer things I take apart....the less chance of my clumsy fingers breaking something.

For plug wire removal......grab the plug wire by the boot that goes over the spark plug....and twist it.....as in turning it clockwise and counter clockwise on the plug......then pull out by the boot only.

If you do remove the cowel.......take some time to very carefully and thoroughly check all those vaccum connections on the back of the upper intake manifold.

There are a number of posts for upper manifold problems for '99 and newer windstars......the '96 through '98 do NOT have the isolator bolt problems.....or the inner "clamshell" separation. We have a robust upper intake manifold.

I had a misfire on cylinder #2 that was caused by crud on the spray end of the fuel injector. I had already replaced the plugs, wires, and a bunch of other stuff. I had also cleaned the EGR ports.
I had to remove the injectors to clean them.
It did not clean with fuel system cleaners that I added to the gas tank. I do recommend fuel system cleaners. Chevron Techron is a very good one for periodic cleaning......use 2 bottles for a 20 gallon tank. I use Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner in a "maintenance dose"......the bottle has markings on the side for how much to add for each 10 gallons to use for a maintenance dose. You would add the whole bottle for a periodic cleaning. The Redline cleaner has a lubricant that is good for the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and the intake valves.

IF you still have the misfire.........it is possible that the coil pack is arcing internally....not real expensive....otherwise.....injector cleaning may be in order.

EGR port clogging usually causes misfire on cylinders #1 and or #4 as those are the last ports to be open....and all the EGR gasses go to them......causing the misfire.

If you remove the upper intake manifold.....clean the EGR ports, and I would clean the fuel injectors.
To clean the injectors....release the fuel system pressure at the valve that is at the center of the front fuel rail. Then thoroughly clean the crud that will be around each injector to keep it from getting into the engine. Then remove the screws that hold the fuel rail down......release the clip on each injector....and lift the fuel rail up....and lay it to the side.....you do not need to disconnect the fuel line from it. Then you can remove each fuel injector....and spray some cleaner ito the "cap" over the end. The spray should flush the crud right out. Made a big difference in how my car ran when I did it.
Then you will put the fuel system back together.....and then....without starting the car......turn the key to the "ON" position.....you will hear the fuel pump come on and off......and then look over the fuel rail and injectors to verify that there are no leaks..... This way you can correct any leakage before you have put the upper intake manifold back on. Turn the key to the "OFF" position....and put the upper intake manifold back on.

I'd suggest a little different approach. I would suggest taking off the Upper Intake (a 15 minute job) and doing the upper intake cleaning. Once you have completed this, you can get to the back 3 plugs --- really eaisly.

Doing this will kill 2 birds with 1 stone as you will likely have to do the upper intake cleaning to address plugged EGR Ports. Plugged ports could be causing your misfire on cly. 2 (although it could also be other things, but is likely plugged EGR ports or a bad coil).

Wiswind is correct. Getting to them from the top is not that easy on the back either. I found I had to almost lie on the engine to get to the back plugs.

I would suggest driving the car up onto some ramps or 2 x 6's to raise it enough to get under. Support it properly (of course) and see how easy it is from underneath. If you think it would be too difficult after seeing it then go from the top.

Next time I do mine I am going to try the underneath method as I found the top a bit of a pain the the .....

I've replaced the plugs for the second time on my '99. Both times I removed the cowling ... with my short stubby ones, working from below wasn't a possibility.

The first time, I lay on the engine, just like DRW describes ... the second time, I tried just reaching over the RH fender.

Reaching over the fender worked pretty well.

We got the plugs and wires changed yesterday and reset the check engine lite. It ran wonderfully all last night and today. Then this evening it suddenly started running ruff again and the light came back on flashing at me. I drove into Auto Zone and had it tested again. Now it says misfire on #1. UGH!! In changing the wires and plugs we found that they were the factory ones installed originally. I did not however buy the special plugs, maybe that is what we did wrong. I had already bought the Bosch Platinums. Maybe I should just change them out for the right ones. Thankyou for all the terrific advice. You have made this much easier.