93 Jeep 4.0 WILL NOT START no fire out of the coil. Put NEW crankshaft
sensor, fuel pump, and coil. Still No fire out of coil but now I am getting fuel but no fire out of the new coil.????

Did the 4.0 get fuel before the fuel pump change? Might want to check the Distributor cap and rotor for damage. Also check the coil wire to the dist it can cause a no start condition. Check fuses and if every thing checks out it is leading to a PCM replacement. One other thing is to check the wirring to the Crank Sensor for damage they can get a break and cause a no start.

Did the 4.0 get fuel before the fuel pump change? Might want to check the Distributor cap and rotor for damage. Also check the coil wire to the dist it can cause a no start condition. Check fuses and if every thing checks out it is leading to a PCM replacement. One other thing is to check the wirring to the Crank Sensor for damage they can get a break and cause a no start.

thanks i will look it over, i am not sure what the PCM IS

PCM - PowerTrain Control Module (aka COMPUTER).

Check the WHITE/BLACK wire at the CamShaft Position Sensor connector (the cam sensor is located under the distributor cap). Follow the wire coming out of the distributor until you come to the connector and backprobe the WHITE/BLACK wire (with a voltmeter/multimeter) and turn the key to the ON position you should have at least 8 volts here at this wire.

Do you have at least 8 volts?

no fire from any of the wires going to the distributor

Is that with the key in the ON position (furthest forward without cranking the engine)?

Is that with the key in the ON position (furthest forward without cranking the engine)?


yes key is on

OK.

Check the WHITE/BLACK wire at the PCM. This wire is PIN #7, 7th wire in from the right (toward engine) on the PCM. If the wire is grounded somewhere then you will not have power to the wire at all. the easiest way to ensure this is to backprobe this wire at the PCM Connector and check for voltage (8 volts) with the key ON. Still NO voltage, cut the wire (at least 4" from the PCM connector, so it can be spliced later on), now hook the voltmeter up to the wire the PCM end and turn the key to the ON position, you should have at least 8 Volts now.

yes there is fire comeing out of the PCM white/black
,,,i changed the camshaft sensor in the distributor today a new coil still not will not start it is getin g fuel thanks for any help i need my jeep up and going asap

did u get 8 volts or more from the WHITE/BLACK wire? If so, now becomes the hard part. Now you have to trace this wire through out the jeeps engine compartment and see where it is grounding at.

This White/BLACK wire is the 8 volt supply wire, it supplies the voltage for the Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor and Vehicle Speed Sensor.

i was texting it with a text light i just tryed again and nothing i do not have a vot meter but i can run get one

Yes, please do. It will give us a more accurate reading.

[QUOTE=dksob81]i am geting 9volts from the WHITE/BLACK wire? NOW WHAT sorry it took a long time to get back also can a rear seal be put in a 4.0 with pulling the motor our other jeep started leaking oil from the rear seal real bad PLEASE HELP ME GET THE GC RUNING I NEED MY JEEP THANKS FOR ANYINFO

Rear Main Eal: yes it can be replaced without removing the Engine or tranny.

To do this ou pretty much have to remvoe the Oil Pan (which is the trick part of this whole procedure), Remove the Oil pump, and the rear Main Cap, then pull half of the old seal out of the Main Cap and the Other half ou will need to use a punch or a screww driver and lightly tap it out on one end then once you get it tapped out part way you can use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the seal out the rest of the way.


If you want to email me I will give you the exact instructions 9out of the book)...
Joe
dksob81@hotmail.com

now the startign issue: Are you getting 9 volts with the wire connected, did you cut the wire?

Have you tried to check for any stored codes.
Turn the key ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON, leave it ON this time, now the CHECK ENGINE light will begin to flash, count the # of flashes, it will flash out double digit codes with a short pause between digits and a long pause between codes.

example, flash pause flash flash - 1 pause 2 = 12
pause pause pause pause
flash flash flash flash flash pause flash flash flash flash flash - 5 pause 5 = 55


just post your result here, if any, and then we will take it from there.

ok here we go ,the check eng ,light flash 3times pause flash 5 times pause flash 5 times 3-5-5?? also i think i am going to try to change the rear seal in the 90 thursday

are you sure it didn't flash 1 time short pause 2 times long pause 5 times short pause 5 times?

Yes You Are Right I Just Looked At It 1-2-5-5

code 12 - battery was disconnected within the last 50 ignition Cycle.

Code 55 - End of fault codes.

When was the last time you disconnected the battery? Have you attempted to start the jeep since disconnecting the battery?

hey i am having the same problem and can't get the engine to start, i don't have spark, i am thinking it is probably my distributor, because i have already changed my spark plugs and wires

hey i am having the same problem and can't get the engine to start, i don't have spark, i am thinking it is probably my distributor, because i have already changed my spark plugs and wires

your NO SPARK issue code be related to a bad Ignition Coil, Cam Sensor or Crank Sensor (CPS).

does you CHECK ENGINE light come on when yuo turn the key to the on POsition>

yes but i got the 1-2-5-5 also because i had undone the battery before i saw this post on here, the engine turns over but will not start, and there is no spark at the coil, so i am thinking about changing the coil pack.

yes but i got the 1-2-5-5 also because i had undone the battery before i saw this post on here, the engine turns over but will not start, and there is no spark at the coil, so i am thinking about changing the coil pack.

Before replacing Ignition Coil!
Does your CHECK ENGINE light come on when you turn the key to the ON position?

yes it does come on

ok, well that takes care of the CPS as the problem. It could be the Ignition Coil or the Cam Sensor and it could also be a wiring problem to the Cam Sensor or to the Ignition Coil itself.

First, I would check the 8volt supply wire at the Cam Sensor, it is the WHITE/BLACK wire, you should have at least 8 volts with the key in the ON position (furthest forward without cranking the engine.

there are two sensors in series that can prevent spark.. the crank position sensor and a camshaft position sensor in the distrubtor. there are instructions in the haynes manual to do an error code check...also check the plug for cam position sensor is it connected?

".....ok, well that takes care of the CPS as the problem. "


I'm having similar problem, cranks good, no start. Changed spark plugs, no help. spark plugs smelled of gas when I took them out. NO ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. So does that mean I have CPS problem? From other research seems like I may have IAC problem? How do I know it's not the distributor cap?

Other symptoms: was starting rough for some time. It would start, but run very rough, like it was misfiring or something, very rough idle....when you pressed on accelerator it would bog down and virtually die, if you let it run idle...either no problem at low rpm or would sputter. Turn it off for a minute and crank it up and it would run fine. Once it was on and running there would be no problems. So it was intermittent problem, sometimes starts and runs fine, other times starts and runs very rough. Now it won't even start. Help!!