Oil Pressure gauge low = knocking sound?

Hi.. well since this seems like the only useful site I've found so far regarding info on these TranSports I figured you guys are the right ones to ask. Not being much of a gearhead (only adopt what I know from previous co-workers and the hubby) I was wondering something about the oil pressure gauge and the knocking sound coming from the engine compartment on my new to me 95 TranSport. I just picked it up and the guy we bought it from said he's changed the intage manifold gasket, all the main bearings (I'm only assuming he means the crank bearings), and the balljoints and brakes for safety reasons. He warned us before we said we'd take it off his hands that there was a knocking sound coming from the engine and if it goes we'd figure something out in the price to replace it if need be. Great, I thought.. no worries.. so I take the beast to get fuel and sure enough I hear the knocking sound. It almost sounds like there is no oil in the top half of the engine where the rockers and pushrods would be (I have no idea if that's what makes up the top end of this 3.8L 3800 engine but that's what it sounds like from hearing a 351 Windsor make the same sound) At the same time it was making that noise I noticed the oil pressure gauge drop from midway to the red.. After reading most of the posts regarding oil pressure on here I'm pretty sure I'm safe as long as that goes.. but the knocking got worse the lower it went and when accellerating. What could this possibly be. Is it really that detrimental that we should get it taken care of now instead of waiting and travelling with three kids in the back? any answer would be much appreciated. Thnx

Although the gentleman said he changed the main bearings I dont see any mention as to the rod bearings. The main bearings usually hold the majority of the oil pressure but if the rod bearings are gone then the mains cant be expected to hold tight the pessure. If it is knocking and the oil pressure gage is in the red I would for sure stop driving it. Only bad thing is if it has been a loud knock and has been doing it for a while the journal (spot on the crank shaft) that holds the rod that is knocking is out of round from being bad for a while ,,you will have to replace the crankshaft wich involves pulling the engine out,and that ussually to most mechanics will involve dropping the subframe. Some mechanics say they can get the engine and trans out the top after pulling the exhaust,,I dont really see how but they say it can be done. In any event if it is a rod knock I would ask for your money back unless you are ready to spend probably about 1500 to 2000 dollars for the engine to be fixed or replaced.

I agree with Jim about this problem. You need to take the car to a mechanic and have it checked. Like Jim said the bearing clearances may be too great to maintain pressure and there is a possibility that the Oil pump is going bad. If you need an engine replaced or rebuilt it won't be cheap. Sorry for the bad news. Also either stop driving it or drive it minimally and only as far as the local mechanic.

Thanks for letting me know about that Jim. I will definately talk to our salesguy.

wow... this great deal apparently is more hassle then it's worth... so if we were to talk worst case senario and had to replace or rebuild the engine..what would be the better and cheaper course of action.. I mean I think we locked ourselves into this deal..I have a family member an hour or so away that could look at it but it sounds like I shouldn't even drive it at all. I have tried to look at how much a rebuilt engine would be and it's like $1697us then shipping and all that garbage. Should I just suck it up and get them to rebuild the one that's already in there? It definately sounds like there isn't enought oil getting to the top part of the engine now that's I've driven it awhile.. any help/advise/direction would me much appreciated.

Check car-part.com for an engine. Or you may want to look for a short block and use the heads and assorted parts from your current engine. It will be cheaper than a complete engine. I found several engines in your area for much less than the price you listed. You will need to have someone install it for you though. I hope you get it worked out.

All of the work that is involved in replacing an engine in a transport you should definately get a good one,,I would have to agree with GTP dad and get a rebiult one from a well respected parts place . Even if you go short block you now have upper end components that have been operating under low oil pressure and are wearing out as we speak so there is the posibility that there is a problem there as well .Im afraid you are in for the ride at this point and am truely sorry . But a complete rebiult engine from a reputable rebiulder is what is going to be a surely trustworthy fix for this Transport.And reputable isnt just from a parts place because I have seen rebiulds from parts houses go south as well,,the problem there is alot of our engine remanufactures hire out of the country for there labor and a 4 dollar an hr man might be putting it together,,not that its his fault ,he has to work to but I wouldnt want him to work on my car if you know what I mean. Go with goodwrench or something like that no RECON they are very poor. Good luck to you!!

Ya I appreciate the heads up... I will take a look at that site... Here's hoping anyhow..Oh as a side note..head towards a fuel station to get fuel cuz it was on e..upper rad hose decides it's gonne blow...how nice. two kids in the car.. man... it's my luck..I went from a engineericly sound buick but not roadworthy to a roadworthy van with no good engine... blah.. I knew my luck had to run out sometime soon. Thanks again for all your help so far.