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93 Grand Am starts but dies immediately


amgmdb5
07-24-2005, 04:42 PM
My car was running fine one day and I went into a business for an interview and when I came out the car wouldn't stay started. This was in February. Then a few days later it started and we drove it home. It hasn't started since. Alot of people have said that the catalytic converter is clogged. I am not sure what to do. Can someone help.

grfnkl
07-24-2005, 06:12 PM
I don't think it's your catalytic Converter, unless you had prior problems with the car before this. I feel that it's more then likely fuel related, I would check to see if the fuel pump is working, or check to see if the engine is getting fuel.

gmack221
07-24-2005, 07:00 PM
If you think its the catalitic converter you could pull the exaust apart or pull the oxygen sensors out, then it should start if thats your problem, when my catilitic converter went it still ran, just ran bad, I don't think thats your trouble though.

What motor do you have?
Its either fuel (fuel pump, injectors, fuel filter)
spark (coils, ignition module)
electrical (bad wire, bad computer, bad crank position sensor, ect...)

give more info (year, motor size, what it does when you try to start it, does the fuel pump run, are you getting spark, ect.. ) there are alot of good people on here that know this car, they will help you if you give more details & can diagnosis it yourself.

amgmdb5
07-24-2005, 08:40 PM
My vehicle is a 1993 with a 2.3L Quad 4 and it is a 4 cylinder. When I try to start it, it turns over, but won't start and I can smell fuel. I believe it is fuel injected. I am pretty sure it is getting spark as well. I am not sure what else you need to know. If you need to know more than please let me know. I would love to get this car running.

gmack221
07-25-2005, 02:16 PM
I have a 95 with the quad 4, first thing I suggest is you actually check to see that it has spark on all 4 cylinders, coil housings & Ignition Control Modules & crank positions sensors are known to go out on these. Easiest way to do this is to take the coil housing off then plug it back in, use 4 spark plug wires (off a real car) 3 hooked to plugs and one to a spark tester. That way you can see whats going on while your cranking the car over.

My guess is you don't have spark, post again or get a haynes manual or get a logic map for that motor, a true mechanics book is best, its steps you thru everything!

Once you verify you have spark you can eliminate the coils, coil housing, ignition module, crank position sensor, ECM (computer), & wiring. If you don't have spark chances are its one of these items listed above.

In my case it was a bad power wire to the computer, I spent alot of money trying all of the other items instead of testing wires, cost me alot, don't let it happen to you. I couldn't get a check engine light when I turned on the key, reason - no power to the computer.

If you have spark it has to be fuel, air or exaust related.

Fuel - does the fuel pump run when the ignition is turned on
- do all of the injectors have the same resistance
- is the injector harness good, check the resistance
- with the key on the injector harness should have 3 wires
(i think its one hot wire and 2 grounds, check Hayes manual)
Air - take off the air box & hoses
Exhaust - take out an O2 sensor, or take it apart

hope this helps a little

amgmdb5
07-25-2005, 03:19 PM
I want to thank you for all of the information and I will try all of the things you said and I will get back to you.

amgmdb5
08-10-2005, 11:04 PM
Okay I think I have narrowed it down to the ignition control module. I went and had it tested at oreilly's. It passed the first test and the second test and failed the third test. They tried it 3 times. They said it was heating up. But then they said that they didn't know what the third test meant. So does this mean the modulator is bad?

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