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Help - 1999 tahoe, Cranks but wont start when Temp is near 210


executor04
07-18-2005, 04:49 PM
Hey

I was searching these forums for a similar problem but nothing exactly like my sitation. Right now my truck is in a dealership repair place who charges $90/hr and claim they can't find anything wrong so If anyone can suggest anything that would be great.

QUick history-
143,000 miles
Engine was just serviced, all plugs changed etc. Brand new fuel pump 1 month ago, new starter and security system for key a few weeks ago.
Sometimes random, sometimes not, but when the engine is running around 3/4 way to the middle of the temp guage, 210 I believe, and you shut off, and you try to start it back within 5-10 min, it cranks, you start to feel the trucks rpm going up, and just as your letting go of the key it just "powers down" and all the lights are on (as if you just turned the key a little bit to get power for windows etc.). I have to leave the engine hood open, windows down for like 10-20 minand let the temp guage go down under the half way mark from the starting temp to 210, or even lower before It works. IF i try to start every 5 min or so, won't go.

Recap - It cranks, you see the oil pressure go up, rpm go up, battery start to charge but just at that last second where you would hear the engine completely engage, it goes off.

ANy suggestions?

99 tahoe
07-19-2005, 09:07 PM
I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe with 42000 miles and I am having the same problem but my truck will have to go down to about 200 temp before stating Any help from your dealer my dealer has a 3 week wait What a bumer!!!! My truck also every now and then has a slight hesitation at about 50 mph under acceleration with load!!! Any help, This sight was great with my clanking noise 2 months ago!!! Hey

I was searching these forums for a similar problem but nothing exactly like my sitation. Right now my truck is in a dealership repair place who charges $90/hr and claim they can't find anything wrong so If anyone can suggest anything that would be great.

QUick history-
143,000 miles
Engine was just serviced, all plugs changed etc. Brand new fuel pump 1 month ago, new starter and security system for key a few weeks ago.
Sometimes random, sometimes not, but when the engine is running around 3/4 way to the middle of the temp guage, 210 I believe, and you shut off, and you try to start it back within 5-10 min, it cranks, you start to feel the trucks rpm going up, and just as your letting go of the key it just "powers down" and all the lights are on (as if you just turned the key a little bit to get power for windows etc.). I have to leave the engine hood open, windows down for like 10-20 minand let the temp guage go down under the half way mark from the starting temp to 210, or even lower before It works. IF i try to start every 5 min or so, won't go.

Recap - It cranks, you see the oil pressure go up, rpm go up, battery start to charge but just at that last second where you would hear the engine completely engage, it goes off.

ANy suggestions?

executor04
07-20-2005, 01:39 AM
Hey

I am glad to see that I am not alone. Well not glad that you have the same problem but it makes me feel better. My dealer hooked it up to the computer and tested everything and nothing. Also I noticed the same hesitation. I THINK its in the 3rd gear. When I feel the stuttering or hesistation, I floor the pedal to switch gears to go into 4th and the hesistation/stuttering is gone.

As for the starting problem, do you use the remote to unlock doors? I was tryin to see if perhaps the remote was screwing the security system in some way. Although I am thinking its heat though I am just trying anything. I can't think of anything I haven't checked yet.

99 tahoe
07-25-2005, 08:58 PM
I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe with 42000 miles and I am having the same problem but my truck will have to go down to about 200 temp before stating Any help from your dealer my dealer has a 3 week wait What a bumer!!!! My truck also every now and then has a slight hesitation at about 50 mph under acceleration with load!!! Any help, This sight was great with my clanking noise 2 months ago!!!

The Tahoe goes in to the dealer in 4days hopefully I will have some answers and I will pass them on too you. My friend tested the on board computer for the check engine light and my truck is comming up with a Random Missfire code It could be anything, also further checking out the situation I see my coolant looks horrible for 42000 miles as well as being low but I no coolant leaks anywhere supprising for a Chevy HAHA. I guess the dealer can also check out my intake gasket..
Again I will let you know when I here something.

Arrie
07-25-2005, 10:38 PM
[QUOTE=executor04]Hey

I was searching these forums for a similar problem but nothing exactly like my sitation. Right now my truck is in a dealership repair place who charges $90/hr and claim they can't find anything wrong so If anyone can suggest anything that would be great.

QUick history-
143,000 miles
Engine was just serviced, all plugs changed etc. Brand new fuel pump 1 month ago, new starter and security system for key a few weeks ago.
Sometimes random, sometimes not, but when the engine is running around 3/4 way to the middle of the temp guage, 210 I believe, and you shut off, and you try to start it back within 5-10 min, it cranks, you start to feel the trucks rpm going up, and just as your letting go of the key it just "powers down" and all the lights are on (as if you just turned the key a little bit to get power for windows etc.). I have to leave the engine hood open, windows down for like 10-20 minand let the temp guage go down under the half way mark from the starting temp to 210, or even lower before It works. IF i try to start every 5 min or so, won't go.

Recap - It cranks, you see the oil pressure go up, rpm go up, battery start to charge but just at that last second where you would hear the engine completely engage, it goes off.

ANy suggestions?


If it is temperature related it could be a simple engine temperature sensor. It could be faulty so that it works fine as cold but fails at higher temperatures. I'm not sure about this but it could be built in the computer that it allows the engine to continue running when this sensor fails on the run but would not let re-start when failed sensor is detected. Then, when you let it cool down the sensor operates again. And these don't always even leave a permanent code in the computer. It all depends how the system is built.
I can tell you from my 2004 Tahoe that I can pull the engine temperature sensor harness off while the engine runs and it keeps running but if I leave the harness disconnected and try to re-start the engine it will crank but will not start.

Arrie

Arrie
07-25-2005, 10:52 PM
The Tahoe goes in to the dealer in 4days hopefully I will have some answers and I will pass them on too you. My friend tested the on board computer for the check engine light and my truck is comming up with a Random Missfire code It could be anything, also further checking out the situation I see my coolant looks horrible for 42000 miles as well as being low but I no coolant leaks anywhere supprising for a Chevy HAHA. I guess the dealer can also check out my intake gasket..
Again I will let you know when I here something.


Random missfire is probably a problem with spark plug boot leaking the spark to engine ground. I don't know if your Tahoe has the aluminum heat shields around spark plug boots but in my 2004 Tahoe some of the spark leaks to the heat shields and then in the engine ground through the grounding spring in the end of the shield. If you remove the springs from the shields you can actually see a small spark between the shields and engine head at dark. An easy test if this is the missfire problem is to remove the heat shields and see if the missfire code disappears (must be reset first). You can do this as removing the shields do not make the boots catch fire or something. At least my dealer told me that the silicone boots will not burn without shields. The shields just extends the life of boots as they keep the radiation heat away from them. I operated my Tahoe without heat shields for several weeks and did not have the missfire code any more. I then replaced my spark plug wires with high performance wires that don't need the heat shields. I did this as there was another problem with arching between the wire connector and spark plug inside the boots.


Arrie

nosefirst
07-26-2005, 10:30 PM
Put in a 160* t-stat. I did in my 98' Burb w/ 5.7l. Runs great with it.

I think the manufacturer's run these as hot as they possibly can with as thin of oil as possible to squeek a little better mileage out of them. They have to improve every year by law according to Govt. set standard.

executor04
07-27-2005, 02:36 AM
A lot of interesting stuff so far and a lot of stuff for me to check too. But I am currently working on a possible situation.

I have no idea if this is related but I want to rule it out. Since I recently had a problem with the security system (security light was stuck on, while the problem happened), I replaced the whole interface in which you stick the key. The problem has happened again since i put that new interface (within a week). I stoped using my remote key to unlock the doors, and I have been using the key manually... Its strangely possible that my key fob has been screwed up somehow and its messing with the security system and in certain ocassions does a security shut down on my engine everytime it starts. Although this is just speculation.. (I still think it has to do with heat because of the time it takes before restart, the temp on the engine goes down a lot).. but Hey its something to check out ..

If anyone else has any ideas that would be cool

nosefirst
07-27-2005, 09:11 AM
Actually, you may have it. The security system has a delay built in that shuts every thing down for xxxx amount of time. Of course the engine will be cooling down at the same time,

The manual tells you how long it shuts down.

executor04
07-27-2005, 05:48 PM
Hmm.. good to hear another one supporting this conclusion.. I'll have to check my manual when I can get it, (left it at work).. But if this is the problem, what would be a solution to get the key remote back working good? I guess back to dealer for a re-program? Also, why would it happen only now and then.. since I used the key remote all the time, but only on certain ocasions it would cause this problem?
Real weird.

99 tahoe
08-03-2005, 01:40 PM
Hello all, I got my report from the dealer.
The dealer states my Throttle body has gone bad luckily I'm still under warranty. Besides the throttle body the dealer is doing a top fuel & internal engine clean "Carbon BuildUp Removal" the dealer has a builitan that this should be done in the 97-00 Tahoe every 50,000 miles or so!!!
I hope this helps best of luck with your cHEVY!!!!

executor04
08-31-2005, 03:56 PM
Hello all, I got my report from the dealer.
The dealer states my Throttle body has gone bad luckily I'm still under warranty. Besides the throttle body the dealer is doing a top fuel & internal engine clean "Carbon BuildUp Removal" the dealer has a builitan that this should be done in the 97-00 Tahoe every 50,000 miles or so!!!
I hope this helps best of luck with your cHEVY!!!!


Interesting I'll check that out. Today my truck didnt start for about 2 hours. It just magically started.. I dont know if its cause I slammed the hood down harder than usual or what, but I opened the hood before and it didnt start, but I just don't know. I am going to try and clean out the fuel filters because I haven't done that yet.


Anyone else have any information?

Franko914
09-29-2005, 12:37 AM
<snip>
...Recap - It cranks, you see the oil pressure go up, rpm go up, battery start to charge but just at that last second where you would hear the engine completely engage, it goes off.

ANy suggestions?

Try this: after shutting off the hot engine, turn the ignition key from OFF to ON (but not to START) and wait 10 seconds or so. Then turn to START.

executor04
09-29-2005, 12:40 AM
Hey

I actually tried that, I thought it might have something to do with the security, but I dont think for 10 sec, I think for less, so If it happens again I'll try longer. So far the problem hasn't happened since the fuel filter was cleaned..

Strange, but again.. I am just waiting for it to happen.

executor04
10-09-2005, 04:57 PM
It happened to me again. It used to last only 20 min breaks, the time before was 1.5-2 hours, ... last night was 4.5 hours before it started again. I am running out of ideas. All i know is the first time it happened it was when the fuel pump went bad and I got a new one and it happened every now and then since that time. It cranks, I would get power steering briefly then it cuts out.

executor04
10-09-2005, 04:58 PM
Try this: after shutting off the hot engine, turn the ignition key from OFF to ON (but not to START) and wait 10 seconds or so. Then turn to START.


Sorry for got to say in my last reply... No go, didn't work. I don't think its a security issue anymore. It has to do with anything involving fuel injection and or sensors.

96 Trick Hoe
10-11-2005, 08:46 PM
I'm kind of cirious about somthing,if power comes on, the engine bumps over but never runs. At 210-220 temp when you turn the key do you hear the fuel pump pressurize the fuel system if so there are 2 sensor's maybe more but I know you have a Temp coolant sensor located on the thermastate housing. Second there is an air temp sensor located onthe upper half plenuim ( MPI fuel sys). Which could be dectated by the lineare EGR valve if it is stuck open. Give that a try.

executor04
10-11-2005, 10:51 PM
I'm kind of cirious about somthing,if power comes on, the engine bumps over but never runs. At 210-220 temp when you turn the key do you hear the fuel pump pressurize the fuel system if so there are 2 sensor's maybe more but I know you have a Temp coolant sensor located on the thermastate housing. Second there is an air temp sensor located onthe upper half plenuim ( MPI fuel sys). Which could be dectated by the lineare EGR valve if it is stuck open. Give that a try.

I am not sure on how the sound of the fuel presurizing the system sounds, but I will check into that next. I am working on the fuel filter. I tried something. I had fuel filter cleaned 3 weeks ago, it was a mess, but I had it done again the other day it was filthy. Last I checked fuel filters last longer than 3 weeks... I am thinking maybe some type of mess is in my fuel tank. I am going to get the fuel tank steam cleaned and examined to see if there is a lot of old build up that gets to the filter whenever the fuel runs real low. Its a long shot, but thats one thing I am going to try. In the meantime, I am going to do my Homework on what you suggested, and what to look for and tell dealer/auto shop to check for. Thanks.

96 Trick Hoe
10-12-2005, 11:12 PM
hey man I'm pretty sure you found your problem. Remember it takes 55-60psi to operate a multi port injection, if you got a tank full of crap well, it wont run, it probably in the morning but once its stured & sucked up in the pump and filter it wont have the fuel pressure required. By the way when you turn the key on (radio off ) under the truck you can hear the fuel pump ZZZZZZZZ.. pressurizing the system, if that happens then you know your fuel pump is still good.

executor04
11-08-2005, 06:14 PM
hey man I'm pretty sure you found your problem. Remember it takes 55-60psi to operate a multi port injection, if you got a tank full of crap well, it wont run, it probably in the morning but once its stured & sucked up in the pump and filter it wont have the fuel pressure required. By the way when you turn the key on (radio off ) under the truck you can hear the fuel pump ZZZZZZZZ.. pressurizing the system, if that happens then you know your fuel pump is still good.


Hey Yeah I think I found it too. Hasn;t been happening. Yeah THat was it, the filter blocking the proper pressure. Also Yes I hear the ZZZZZ sound. Right now I have another problem with my truck, not as bad, but but I amgoing to post a new topic about it haha.. my never ending problems..

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