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ford escort vibrates


misty9999
07-15-2005, 10:54 PM
my 1995 ford escort vibrates at idle , whlle driving it is not noticable..i thought it might be the manifold exhaust or need a new head gasket..when i took it to the shop they told me that it would cost me about 2,500 to repair that the drive shaft was bad and the engine has no compression in cylender 4.. the engine does not knock it actually runs smooth while driving could this be true or are they trying to scam me

AzTumbleweed
07-16-2005, 06:10 AM
To start with an Escort doesn't have a drive shaft. It has 'half shafts'. At least I think that's what they are called. That means it's front wheel drive. These have something called a "CV Joint" and yes they do go bad. I've replace the left side on my Escort. Too test them go to a parking lot somewhere. Turn the steering wheel as far as you can in one direction. Then drive in a circle. Turn the wheel as far as it will go the other way and drive in a circle. If you here a clicking or popping sound then that means you've got a bad CV Joint.

If you have low compression in a cylinder then the engine will idle rough but smooth out as RPM's increase. If it starts OK and gets reasonble gas mileage I'd just keep on driving it.

I am in Alabama but we are planning to move to Arizona next month. Noticed you are in Phoenix. Looks like we are going to Ajo. Ever heard of the place? By the way, my daughter is 'Misty' too. :smile:

misty9999
07-18-2005, 08:13 PM
To start with an Escort doesn't have a drive shaft. It has 'half shafts'. At least I think that's what they are called. That means it's front wheel drive. These have something called a "CV Joint" and yes they do go bad. I've replace the left side on my Escort. Too test them go to a parking lot somewhere. Turn the steering wheel as far as you can in one direction. Then drive in a circle. Turn the wheel as far as it will go the other way and drive in a circle. If you here a clicking or popping sound then that means you've got a bad CV Joint.

If you have low compression in a cylinder then the engine will idle rough but smooth out as RPM's increase. If it starts OK and gets reasonble gas mileage I'd just keep on driving it.

I am in Alabama but we are planning to move to Arizona next month. Noticed you are in Phoenix. Looks like we are going to Ajo. Ever heard of the place? By the way, my daughter is 'Misty' too. :smile:


Never heard of Ajo I moved to az 4 years ago, I looked it up tho population 3,705 must be a small town. Thanks for the reply on the escort I probably won't repair the escort I don't care to spend that much on it. It was my nephews car he drove it out to visit and left it behind when it started acting up..

JLDent
09-20-2005, 01:54 PM
First off, if you don't get out of your pick up truck with a 22oz. beer in each hand and a mouthfull of chaw, YES the machanics are ALWAYS trying to scam you.

Always find out EXACTLY what is wrong before you go there, whatever way you can. When they bulls*it you, insist on whatever it really is.

Now, for your problem. I would just change the plugs and wires out, those things go bad after a while. The mechanic might not have checked compression, he may have just checked to see if the cylinders were firing. Also what kind of rattling is it? is it like a big vibration or an anoyying noise from the front? It might be that your hood is vibrating around and making the noise, there are two round rubber thinggies that you can turn (they are about the headlights) and that adjusts where you hood sits on them. I did that to mine and it cleared right up. All you have to do is turn them by hand too, no tools required. Also changing out plugs and wires will improve idle too.

frafreg
09-20-2005, 02:10 PM
A rough idle could mean a lot of things. Things like a vacuum leak, a bad valve that doesn't seat at idle but does seat a higher rpm, etc. Of course as it has already been stated, go for the easier stuff first like plugs and wires. Take the plugs out one by one and analyse them. Remove the ignition wires one by one to see if there is any difference to find out which cylinder may be at fault. The plugs themselves may lead you to the problem. Make sure the EGR valve is closing at idle. If it doesn't close it will affect the idle. Check the oil and the anti freeze to see if either one leaked into the other. If so, you may need a head gasket. I could go on and on but this is a good enough start for you. I wish you luck. I know what it is like to have to solve these kinds of problems with limited funds and time.

my 1995 ford escort vibrates at idle , whlle driving it is not noticable..i thought it might be the manifold exhaust or need a new head gasket..when i took it to the shop they told me that it would cost me about 2,500 to repair that the drive shaft was bad and the engine has no compression in cylender 4.. the engine does not knock it actually runs smooth while driving could this be true or are they trying to scam me

Lynde
09-22-2005, 09:10 PM
A rough idle could mean a lot of things. Things like a vacuum leak, a bad valve that doesn't seat at idle but does seat a higher rpm, etc. Of course as it has already been stated, go for the easier stuff first like plugs and wires. Take the plugs out one by one and analyse them. Remove the ignition wires one by one to see if there is any difference to find out which cylinder may be at fault. The plugs themselves may lead you to the problem. Make sure the EGR valve is closing at idle. If it doesn't close it will affect the idle. Check the oil and the anti freeze to see if either one leaked into the other. If so, you may need a head gasket. I could go on and on but this is a good enough start for you. I wish you luck. I know what it is like to have to solve these kinds of problems with limited funds and time.
Ok it sould like this particular mechanic doesn't know what he is taking about, a front wheel drive vehicle doesn't have a driveshaft they have halfshafts. And they wouldn't be moving anyway at idle. Furthermore, if you didn't have compression in #4 cylinder you would notice a performance problem. It would miss, the engine would shake baddly, and it would get only worse at higher speeds. And for the record, not all mechanics are out to screw with people, I have been a Ford Tech. for over 12 yrs, working at a dealership, and strive on helping people out, I feel good about doing a good job, and take pride in my work. Now to get to your issues. It sounds like the Idle Air Contol Valve, IAC, isn't working properly. Also I would look at the PCV valve and hose going to the intake, see if it's oil soaked, and soft. The IAC is located on the Throttle body, two bolts hold it in place, with an electrical connector. Remove the valve, inspect it, if it has black carbon build up on it, you can try and clean them with (I like to use 3M Throttle Body and plate Cleaner) or replace it. Also take the Air tube off the throttle body and spray inside the throttle body, finish with spraying with shop air to reduce backfire.
The reason I don't think you have a secondary ignition problem(spark plugs or wires) is that you would have a miss all the time, not just at idle.
You could however have a vacuum hose broken, (pcv hose) is a known for causing such a problem.
Or you could have a low fuel pressure.
My question is do you have to use two feet to keep it running, if so, I would be looking at the IAC.

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