My engine keeps overheating. All I have to do is drive like a block for the gauge to go all the way up.
and the engine coolant container is hot and steaming.
Oh and by the way
this is off topic, but maybe someone knows.
None of the illumination in the car works, the speedometer doesn't light up when i turn my lights on.

Its a 96 plymouth neon sohc

Russian8

The engine overheats because sufficient coolant is not moving through the engine.

1 Check the coolant level if low fill, if full,
2 Check the thermostat, make sure is is not jammed or broken. You can even confirm it opens by boiliing it in a pot. If it is broken replace it (put it in in the correct orientation) If it is ok then confirm no airlock in the rad hoses and chambers, turn on the passenger cabin heater. Confirm flow by examining the fluid moving with the rad cap removed. Do this when the engine is cold.

If you have 1) enough coolant, 2) a functional thermostat, 3) evidence of flow, proof that the heat is being ejected from the rad(the rad will be warm) then you'll need to check the electrical side.

1) confim radiator fan comes on with temp guage just below half way up
If it is and the coolant is hot then, the gage may be slightly out. If the fan doesn't come on, then there is a problem with the Rad Fan control.

Check this link:


http://www.neon-owners.org/neon/tec...997/EPL_TAB.PDF

in particular, download the cooling system manual,

EPL_7.PDF

It is very descriptive.

Russian8

The engine overheats because sufficient coolant is not moving through the engine.

1 Check the coolant level if low fill, if full,
2 Check the thermostat, make sure is is not jammed or broken. You can even confirm it opens by boiliing it in a pot. If it is broken replace it (put it in in the correct orientation) If it is ok then confirm no airlock in the rad hoses and chambers, turn on the passenger cabin heater. Confirm flow by examining the fluid moving with the rad cap removed. Do this when the engine is cold.

If you have 1) enough coolant, 2) a functional thermostat, 3) evidence of flow, proof that the heat is being ejected from the rad(the rad will be warm) then you'll need to check the electrical side.

1) confim radiator fan comes on with temp guage just below half way up
If it is and the coolant is hot then, the gage may be slightly out. If the fan doesn't come on, then there is a problem with the Rad Fan control.

Check this link:


http://www.neon-owners.org/neon/tec...997/EPL_TAB.PDF

in particular, download the cooling system manual,

EPL_7.PDF

It is very descriptive.

the gauge goes all the way up, but the fan doesnt go on
do u think thats it?
and where is the thermostat
oh and the link u gave doesn't work

the gauge goes all the way up, but the fan doesnt go on
do u think thats it?
and where is the thermostat
oh and the link u gave doesn't work

You need to check the Temp at the Thermostat housing with an Infrared Pyrometer. Let the engine get hot and then check the temp at the Thermostat housing. If the temp shows normal with the Pyrometer then your Coolant Temp Sensor or Gauge is bad. Highly doubt a gauge failure. If it is as hot as the gauge says, then check the oposite end of the upper radiator hose(near the Raditors), Radiator and lower Radiator hose, if the temps get much cooler the further down stream you go then your Thermostat is Stuck and needs to be replaced or Clogged Radiator.

the gauge goes all the way up, but the fan doesnt go on
do u think thats it?
and where is the thermostat
oh and the link u gave doesn't workCheck you radiator fan relay and in related fuses in the PDC, located right behind the battery. If your fan is not kicking on it is either a bad fan motor or a bad relay.

I'm so sorry about the bad link. My mistake.

here it is.. I just checkd it out:

http://www.neon-owners.org/neon/tech/manuals/1997/EPL_TAB.PDF

I would suggest you check the fan relay if the fan is not coming on. I believe it is the same relay as the A/C Clutch so you might consider swapping them temporarilly. The connector to the Fan Motor, accessible from under the front end often jiggles loose. Confirm that is connected.

The thermostat is beneath the coolant pressure release valve on the left side of the engine. 2 bolts to remove the thermostat. But if your fan is not coming on.....Occam's Razor prevails and you are likely not dealing with a coolant problem. Sound like electrical to me.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_Razor

Check the relay and the fan motor.

By the way, any engine service lights illuminated?

k the radiator fan works now
I think i might of made a mistake and it was working all along, but the thing is when the engine overheats and i turn it off I can hear the coolant boiling through the coolant container and then something clicks and it stops boiling and steams.

and I added coolant today, it was empty because yesturday i found a leak in the upper radiator house ( the one that goes to the thermostat ) and replaced it. also this hose gets really hot, and i mean really, yesturday i got a burn on my finger from touching it.
I'll wait for the engine to cool off and I'll take out the thermostat.

k the radiator fan works now
I think i might of made a mistake and it was working all along
What mistake is that?
I added coolant today, it was empty because yesturday i found a leak in the upper radiator house ( the one that goes to the thermostat ) and replaced it. also this hose gets really hotThat would explain why your temp goes up, but not why the fan would not kick on.

no I was right about the fan not working right
its not working again
and I replaced the thermostat and the rad cap today, but its still overheating, however there is no more steam coming out of the coolant container.
and a few days ago I checked the (check engine codes) and I got 42

Hey....There is a pattern!

Make certain there are no air bubbles in the coolant and there is good flow.

A code 42 is the auto shutdown relay or fuel pump control circuit. The Auto shutdown relay is in the Power Distribution Center. but So is a Fan relay (Based on a TSB) and they are diagonal to each other. So you have a malfunction in the Fan and a code 42. Well I don't believe in coincidences. I bet the probrem is in the Power distribution center.

Are you comfortable with jumpering the fan relay circuit and force the fan on?

What do you mean?

What I mean is both indications of trouble are in the POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/346531pdc.JPG

One of the fan relays is the blue one. (I think that one is retrofit after the fact) The Solid State relay is on the left front inner frame just behind the radiator for a 97 neon. According to the service manual.

My system is a bit of a cludge.

I don't know what u mean by jumpering, but I found the relay for the fan and switched with another one and now the code 42 doesn't come on, It's just 12 and 55 wich is fine right.
I took out the radiator today and it wasn't clogged so I'm going to put it back on and I bought a new water pump today. I'll try to figure out how to take out the old one tomorrow. Any tips? Anything I should know?

Make sure you need the pump before you change that. My friend.... I would NOT do that unless you absolutely had to. as a last ditch effort.

The water pump replacement is a total bitch of a job because it is driven by the timing belt. You have to take half the engine out to get at it.

DO NOT CHANGE THE PUMP UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY!!!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/346531pump-off-med.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/346531pump-on.jpg

see what you are getting into? It is behind the timing belt, the tensioner, housing.... engine mount gross!!

If you switched the relays, you likely put a bad relay somwhere else. I'd put it back and be sure you still get a code 42. Then BUY a new relay.

well then is there anything else I should check before I start on that?

just 12 and 55 wich is fine rightYep, you're fine now.
I bought a new water pump today. I'll try to figure out how to take out the old one tomorrow. Any tips? Anything I should know?How many miles on your neon? If you are close to 100,000, then you will need to change the timing belt and the water pump at the same time. This isn't an easy task, as stated but it can be done. Click the link for a really good how-to
http://jball.neons.org/howto/timing_belt/howto.html

If you objective is to resolve the oveheating coolant issue, I'd make sure the fan, fan relays, radiator, and coolant levels and thermostat are functioning correctly.

If don't get the sense that you have established all that yet.

If the problem is flow, then of course you'll need to change the pump but from what I gather I don't yet agree that the pump is the problem.

That being said if you elect to change the pump for the heck of it, it can be done, but it is truly an uncomforable job.
0) lift battery connections
1) drain the coolant
2) jack the engine
3) remove the right motor mount (a bitch)
4) remove lower splash guard
5) maybe remove the right wheel (acess issue)
6) remove power steering/ a/c belt
7) remove the timing belt cover (access issues)
8) crank engine to allign timing marks on camshaft sprockets
9) mark them and photgraph it
10) remove tensioner (This is work to come)
11) compress tensioner and pin it in place for later
12) remove belt

Al this is happening in a cramped 3" space next to the frame

13) Oh happy day now to remove the harmonic ballance
14) Mark the orientation of the balance on the crankshaft.
15 ) Remove balance bolt. (Don't roll engine...you may want to remove the bolt before you take off the timing belt)
16) Put a special pin in the crank.
17) using a 3 jaw puller pull the balance off.... (super bitch job....If you can get the belt off without this I'd do it.)
17.1) Remove the Camshaft sprocket(s if DOHC)
(just undo the bolt)
18) Remove the rear timing belt cover
19) remove the water pump bolts
20) remove the water pump

This may all be unnecessary if you can prove that the coolant system works before doing this. Please make sure it is necessary.

Now if your timing belt is bad then go ahead.

Now if your timing belt is bad then go ahead.After all that, regardless if the timing belt is bad, change it. You would not want to do all that again, when and if your belt snaps, and bends some valves while it's at it!

"This may all be unnecessary if you can prove that the coolant system works before doing this. Please make sure it is necessary."

k so how would i prove that the cooling system works?

Check this

1) Is there the correct amount of coolant?
2) Is there any Leaks?
3) Are there any air bubbles in the coolant system?
4) Are the any obstructions?
5) Is there flow past thermostat when hot?
6) Is the thermostat working?
7) Does the radiator get hot?
8) Does the fan come on at all?
9) Does the fan come on only when the radiator is hot?
10) Does the fan go off after a while?
11) Does the coolant boil?


Answer these questions and if you get the following answers then I would not replace the pump.

1) yes
2) no
3) no
4) no
5) yes
6) yes
7) yes
8) yes
9) yes
10) yes
11) no

k I started taking it out today
but I'm stuck. I donnu how to remove the pulley that is in the way of the plastic cover.

See step 17.1 above.

Make sure you download the manual I posted.

can u give me another link for it,
that one doesn't work again

Ha !!! you should have got it sooner. Looks like Neonowners got tired of us downloading the pdf. It is a dead link now. I have the 3.7 Meg file. I f you want I can ftp or email it somewhere.

I'd buy a Haynes manual too... It is pretty good.

I still can't believe th pump was bad.

well I'm pretty sure its the pump cuz its leaking and there was no coolant flow.
can u email it to olezhka8@aol.com

sent it you ought to have it now.

a leak and no flow... OK.

I sent the cooling manual too.

i took out the tensioner and its stuck closed
what does this mean?

Tensioner is either extended or compressed. I don't know what closed means. If it is extended, the just as the manual states, you must lube it and compress it with a vise and pin it in place with a small allen wrench situated so that youn can remove it once the belt is in place,

If it is compressed and stuck... lube it. If it won't move. then the belt must not have been under any tension. and you need a new tensioner. Got any pictures?

no i don't but its k i fixed it
don't wanna write how because its gona take long but it works now.
I put everything back together today and tomorrow I'm gona fill it with coolant and test it.
can some one tell me how much coolant I need and how do I tell when the system is full of it?

can some one tell me how much coolant I need and how do I tell when the system is full of it?I don't know exactly how much you will need, but remember to mix it with water. You want 50% water and 50% coolant. After you fill it up, you will want to run the car for awhile and check the levels again after it circulates through.

so if i open the rad cap and see coolant
that means its full right?
or is it too much

so if i open the rad cap and see coolant
that means its full right?
or is it too muchThat means it is full. Make sure you fill up the reservoir bottle also.

k I'm done
i filled up the cooling system with water for now because i didnt want to waste coolant if thers a leak or if I did something wrong, but its all good it doesn't overheat anymore and I'm going to replace the water with coolant within the next few days, thanks alot everyone.
but i have another problem now, the car seems to accelerate slower or maybe its just because I didn't drive it for a few weeks.
maybe I didnt tighten the timing belt enought. could that be the problem?

I had a question for you.

So what was wrong with the pump?

its was leaking
and i donnu if there was anything esle wrong
I'm not that good with this stuff
this is the fisrt time I did anything to my car