Brake Problems - Use two different systems

Here's the deal, I have a 1990 chrysler new yorker in here and I am trying to figure out why there is low brake pedal. I will try to describe to you what I have done. The ABS pump went out (not paying $1600) so I pulled it all had the bosch 3, 4 wheel disc brakes. Put in brake booster, master cylinder and two regulating proportioning valves one to the rear and one to the front. Replaced front calipers, pads, rotors and brake lines. Pedal goes to the floor. I dont want to put anymore money into this car but I need a brake pedal that responds better. The car is going to my 18 yr old cousin and she drives like a maniac. I appreciate any help or advice. Thanks

Firstly did you bench bleed the master? If you didnt then you can do it on the car. Disconect the lines, then Put your fingers over the line holes (on the master) except one of them, While some one else presses the pedal down and holds it down, then (with the pedal operator still holding the pedal down) cover all holes with lots of pressure (dont want any air to suck back in). Once you have covered all the holes he lets the pedal up. do that say 4 or 5 times to each hole until you have a steady stream of fluid. (make sure you keep the master full of fluid at all times)After you have done that Re conect the lines.

BTW. after thats done ** DONT FORGET TO WATER DOWN ANY AREA THAT MAY HAVE FLUID ON IT COS BRAKE FLUID DOES NASTY THINGS TO PAINT.**

Also did you then bleed the rest of the brake sys.? starting at the closest wheel to the master, and then to the next closest and so on.
This might take a couple of rounds to get a full pedal. Locking off the rest of the lines (with line clamps) will ensure no more air will somehow get stuck back in the lines. (make sure you keep the master full of fluid at all times)

(All of the above would be for a soft/spongy or completely to the floor pedal.)

But, if it is a hard pedal but almost to the ground, then this info i posted in a past post should help.

Firstly did u try reseting proportioning valve? If you did, then when the brakes are applied is it easy to lock them up? cos if it is, there should be a small rubber disc inside the booster. When u take off the master, there will be a gromet with a rod in the center, pull them both out. Get a torch and look in the hole of the booster. In the center there will be a black rubber (not metal) if there is no rubber then that will be the problem. It is about 1 centimeter thick and that when you push the pedal down is almost to the ground, cos of the mechanical advantage from the pedal arms.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for your help charger, I had figured it out last night before I read your reply. The problem was that there wasnt enough fluid going to the front calipers, the proportioning valve for the front was restricting it to much, I also extended the push rod coming from the booster to allow the piston in the master to open sooner so the pedal would react sooner. If anyone needs this setup just ask and I will explain further. What I did was convert a Bosch 3 ABS system to a basic master, booster and proportioning valve. The bill for this completely swapped brake system with all new front brakes ended up being around $800 with labor and all the parts. The ABS pump motor for this car was between 1800 and 2200. No customer would pay that for a 300 dollar car. But thanks for all you help and please let me know if I can assist anyone with any information I may have.

But thanks for all you help

I didnt really help, but i am glad that the problem is resolved. I dont know anyone that would use your conversion for i am in Australia, but if i hear of anyone i will turn them your way.

Hey Chop shop,
I am considering doing the same swap. I am not a mechanic, I can turn wrenches, don't get me wrong. I have done many jobs, from fuel pumps to heater cores. I just want to get rid of the ABS Hydraulic unit. I have an 89 new yorker Landeau that was given to me. Has a new motor, but this Hydraulic unit is not functioning at all. I have no power assist in the brake pedal whatsoever.
Would you reccomend the conversion, or would you buy a rebuilt ABS unit for about $600 done by cardone? I have had no luck finding a unit from a junk yard.