SLUDGE PROBLEM

Note: To put the extent of this problem in perspective, out of the over 3.3 million Toyota engines that are installed in vehicles covered by Toyota's extended warranty, only about 7,000 of them have had serious failures. That is 0.2% or about two failures in 1,000 engines.

Q: I have heard about some Camry engines having problems with sludge build-up. I was wondering if my car is likely to have that problem, and what I can do to prevent it. I have read that toyota claims it is just due to people not doing regular oil changes. If my year is affected by this problem, will doing these regular oil changes prevent it? Or is the problem almost inevitable?

A: In February 02 Toyota finally acknowledged the condition, without taking real blame for any engineering problems, and started to correct the affected engines. They had some conditions that had to be met but their Special Policy Adjustment was a good start. They finally showed their true corporate stance on the unfortunate problem. They have broadened the scope of the coverage, within the years and models affected.

In April 2002, Toyota said it has made a running production change to its widely used 3.0-liter V-6 engine that will improve circulation by enabling oil to drain faster into the sump - an apparent acknowledgement that engine design has been at least part of the problem.

Second, Toyota said it will pay for sludge-related repairs for eight years from the date of purchase for all 1997-2002 Toyota and Lexus vehicles with the 3.0-liter IMZ-FE V-6 engine and all 1997-2001 Toyota vehicles with the now discontinued 5S-FE 2.2-liter four-cylinder engine.

Toyota's new policy is a dramatic change from a so-called Special Policy Adjustment begun in February. Amid increasing criticism for refusing to deal with the problem, Toyota notified 3.3 million owners of the affected engines that sludge-related repairs would be covered for one year, as long as they proved the oil had been changed at least once in the previous year.

It insisted then - as it does with the new policy - that owner negligence is the cause of the problem.

In contrast to the February offer, Toyota's new policy:
Has no mileage limitation.
Covers owners who buy used vehicles.
Reimburses drivers who already have paid for repairs
Includes payments for tow trucks, rental cars and other incidental expenses resulting from engines that fill with sludge.

For the uninitiated, here is an example of what sludge looks like in an engine:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/sludge.jpg

This seems affect mostly Avalon, Camry, Sienna, Highlander, Celica and most Lexus 300/RX series models with the model years after 1997 thru 2001/2002. Apparently, Toyota made a change in the engine design that actually contributed to the problem.

My biggest question is do I qualify? Here are the guidelines Toyota is using to establish the engines that are prone to having the sludge (gel) condition:

2.2 L I4
Camry Produced 8/96 - 7/01
Celica Produced 8/96 - 4/99
Corolla Produced 1998
Solara Produced 6/98 - 5/01

3.0 L V6
Camry Produced 8/96 - 7/02
Avalon Produced 7/96 - 5/02
Highlander Produced 11/00 - 7/02
Lexus ES300 Produced 8/98 - 7/02
Lexus RX300 Produced 1/98 - 7/02
Sienna Produced 7/97 - 5/02
Solara Produced 6/98 - 5/02

If you look at the vehicle identification label on the left door or left door post you can find the date of manufacture. It normally is one of the first things you can see on the upper left of the label (example 7/98 means it was made July, 1998).

The actual cause of the problem is an inability of the engine's crankcase ventilation system (PCV) to move the normal gases from the engine (fuel from blow-by, and water from combustion). When these gases stay longer in an hot engine it allows deposits to form on the metal parts of the engine. When enough deposits are present "Sludge" is formed.

Another contributor may be reduction of the size of cooling passages to the cylinder heads in those engines in order to increase combustion temperatures for more of a complete burn to reduce exhaust emissions. Excessive heat makes oil more susceptible to sludge. Cylinder-head temperatures as high as 260 degrees have been measured in those engines - 30 degrees higher than in earlier models.

The problem is magnified by short driving distances so that the engine oil never gets really hot, infrequent oil changes, or mechanical malfunctions. Using synthetic-based oil will also help minimize sludge formation since synthetic lubes are much less prone to oxidation than dino oils. Changing the oil more frequently will also help minimize sludge. There are alot of opinions on how often to change oil, but 3K miles for dino oil and 5K for synthetic oils are conservative and should be fine for most any engine (YMMV).

WHAT IS SLUDGE?
There are different "types" of sludge, they are of different appearance ranging from light brown to opaque black, they range from semi-liquid to solid, and they can be formed by different chemical reactions.

Since any sludge is formed primarily from the engine oil, the oil itself appears to be at fault. Actually the oil is the victim of mechanical and chemical attack.

The formation of sludge is a very complex interaction of components which include mechanical and thermal stress and multitude of chemical reactions.

Although there are thousands of documented engine failures in the field, not a single research chemist has to date succeeded to create a "synthetic" sludge under controlled laboratory conditions. The real life conditions are therefore so complex as to be virtually impossible to duplicate in laboratory, yet hundreds of engines all over the world fail daily due to sludge formation.

While some engine types are more prone to sludge formation, the fact is that only very small proportion of the "affected" engines actually fail in service.

Sludge in gasoline engines is usually a black emulsion of water and other combustion by-products, and oil formed primarily during low-temperature engine operation. Sludge is typically soft, but can polymerize to very hard substance. It plugs oil lines and screens, and accelerates wear of engine parts. Sludge deposits can be controlled with a dispersant additive that keeps the sludge constituents finely suspended in the oil.

"Black Sludge" is defined as thick to solid material with low water content, of dark color, light oil insolubles, and typically found in rocker cover, cylinder head, timing chain cover, oil sump, oil pump screen, and oil rings in variable quantities.

Sludge in diesel engines, is soot combined with other combustion by-products which can thicken the oil to gel like sludge. This sludge is typically soft, but can also polymerize to very hard substance. It plugs oil filters, oil lines and screens, and accelerates wear of engine parts.

FURTHER DISCUSSIONS

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=191631

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef0adfa/0

http://yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html

http://www.autosafety.org/getcat.php?cid=28

http://www.synlube.com/sludge.htm

More discussion on sludge formation:
http://yotarepair.com/sludge%20article.html

How to prevent sludge:
http://yotarepair.com/How_to_prevent_sludge.html

What can I do since I have sludge?
http://yotarepair.com/Engine_replace.html

ACIS MOD FOR TOYOTA V6
Q: What is the ACIS mod? What engines does it apply to? How do you do it?

A: This mod is meant for the 3VZ-FE engine, but may apply to 1MZ engines too.

Basically, the ACIS is a valve powered by an actuator operating by vacuum pressure that closes when engine revs past 3900 rpm to give better high end power. When it's open, it theoretically gives more low end torque, but the 3VZ-FE engine is already very torquey.

Furthermore, when the valve is open, the air is very turbulent and may actually limit airflow. So by making the ACIS close early, it will allow the engine to produce a smoother powercurve delivering peak power sooner. More power under 3900rpms and 50%+ TPS. It may be even more noticeable if you did some intake porting.

Link for How To:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=399112

After several trials, I noticed that only the plug on top of the throttle body that's closest to the driver seat provides enough vacuum to shut the ACIS at 1200-1500rpms. The lower vacuum plug shuts ACIS at 3500rpms.

Thanks sanengo!

Here's further clarification from Toysrme:

Better pics than copying my old setup is me correcting someone else's attempt. What we are doing, is plugging the ACIS Actuator into the E-vacuum port on the throttle body. This way, instead of the nasty ECU programming controlling the ACIS valve (>4000rpm, >/= 50% TPS, the car must be moving). It will open any time the throttle plate is open, and at any rpm. They should snap shut around 1250-1500rpm.

You can get small plastic T's at Wall-mart fish section. About 50 cents for a two pack.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/Answers/5-MJ.jpg

This will improve the power around the 2000-4000rpm band.

Historical Background for Camry:
http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/Toyota+Camry

1997 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/97_NCF.pdf
1998 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/98_NCF.pdf
1999 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/99_NCF.pdf
2000 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/00_NCF.pdf
2001 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/01_NCF.pdf

ENGINE HISTORY AND SPECS
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/GasolineEngines.html

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar400108.htm

Thanks to ToyotaNation for the following information.

CAMRY GENERATIONS
Q: What are the years for the difference Camry Generations?

A:
Gen1 = 83-86
Gen2 = 87-91
Gen3 = 92-96
Gen4 = 97-01
Gen5 = 02-06

LARGER OIL FILTER
Q: What larger capacity oil filters can I use on my Camry?

A: For 3VZ-FE (Gen 3) / 1MZ-FE (Gen 3,4) / 3MZ-FE (Gen 5) Camry V6 engines:

Part # for Toyota OEM filter: 90915-YZZD3
Filter is off 4Runner and Land Cruiser, it's slightly longer with (arguably) better filtration. Price should be the same as any Camry V6 oil filter.

For 5S-FE (Gen3, 4) Camry 4-cylinder engines:
Oil filter from Rav4: 90915-YZZA1

If the capacity of the lubrication system is increased substantially (such as adding a remote filter or multiple filters, etc), you must increase the fill of lubricant to match that of the additional capacity.

LOWERING SPRINGS
Q: What lowering springs are available for my Camry?

A: Gen2:
Intrax (all except All-Trac: #75.1.002)

Gen3:
Apex
Dropzone
Eibach Pro-Kit (4-cyl: #8226.240, V6: #8226.140)
H&R Sport
Intrax (4-cyl: #75.1.003, V6: #75.1.004)
Votgland
Sprint

Gen4:
Eibach Pro-Kit (4/6-cyl: #8249.140)

Gen5:
Eibach Pro-Kit
Tein S-Tech (#SKL20-AUB00)

PERFORMANCE STRUTS
Q: What performance struts are available for my Camry?

A: Gen2:
Tokico HP (inserts only) - (Front: #HZ3117 / Rear: #HZ3118)

Gen3:
Koni Special [Reds] (inserts only) (Front: #86-2484 / Rear: #86-2485)
KYB GR-2 (full replacements) (Front: #334131,334132 / Rear: #334133,334134)
Tokico HP (full replacements) (Front: #HB3179,HB3180 / Rear: #HB3181,HB3182)
Tokico HP (inserts only) (Front: #HZ3138 / Rear: #HZ3139A)

Gen4:
TRD (rebadged Bilstein)
Tokico HP (full replacements) (Front: #HB3184,HB3185 / Rear: #HB3181,HB3182)

LIGHT BULB TYPES
Q: What light bulb are in my Camry?

A: Gen3:
Low Beam - 9006
High Beam - 9005
Front Turn Signals - 1156
Rear Turn Signals - 1156
Brake Lights - 1157
Parking Lights - 194

Gen4:
High & low beam - 9003
Front turn signal - 1157A
Rear turn signal - 3156
Parking light - 1157A
Tail light - 904/3157
Stop light - 3157
High mount stop light - 921
License plate - 2825
Back up light - 921
Front sidemarker - 1157A
Rear sidemarker - 194
Glove box - 37
Dome light - DE3175
Step/Courtesy light - DE3021
Trunk/Cargo area - 194
Instrument-general - 74/194

BOLT PATTERN AND STOCK WHEEL OFFSET
Q: What is the bolt pattern and stock wheel offset?

A:
Gen2:
Bolt pattern: 5 x 100
Offset: +38mm

Gen3:
Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3
Offset: +38mm

Gen4:
Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3
Offset: +38mm

Gen5:
Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3
Offset: +50mm

STARTER CLICKS ONCE BUT DOES NOT TURN ENGINE

Q: Often my starter will just click and not turn over the engine. It will do this for a long time, but eventually it will act normally. Is this a common problem with Camrys? How can I fix it?

A: Yes, it is a common problem with Toyota starters. Many times, the problem is sticking starter solenoid contacts. See the following links for descriptions on how to replace them. This is a really cheap and easy fix on a Camry and should be the first thing you try after you check all the cable connections and the battery quality.

Some Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter-repair reference sites:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e2/1e/0900823d8013e21e/repairInfoPages.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=166530
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/haveblue_starter/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_starter_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/starter_contacts/starter_contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=27312&forumid=10

Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (www.metroautoinc.com (http://www.metroautoinc.com) ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511)

For others besides 22R series:

Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)

Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5231
Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape)
Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape)
Metro # 66-82106 (www.metroautoinc.com (http://www.metroautoinc.com) ,Pomona,California)
Tons more at:
http://www.metroautoinc.com/PDF%20File/66-Denso%20Solenoid%20Contact.pdf
Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson’s Electric # 45-29-652

Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones, or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

Thanks to SidneyCanada for the above information


STARTER CLICKS CONTINUOUSLY BUT DOES NOT TURN ENGINE

Q: What if the starter clicks not once, but very fast and does not turn the engine over?

A:The problem you're having is not the solenoid contacts as described above. With bad solenoid contacts, there is only one click (the starter relay), not many. Your problem is insufficient current/voltage getting to the starter.

Most likely cause is a bad battery. Before you buy one, check the battery terminals - make sure they are on tight and they are clean. Check the connections on the other end of the battery cables for tightness and cleanliness also. If all looks good, replace the battery.

If the battery cable connections are bad, loosen them from the battery and clean them with baking soda/water slurry until they are bright metal, then reconnect them and tighten them snug. Coat them with petroleum jelly to prevent them from corrosion.

It it's possible something has been left on, like your headlights or dome light etc. and the battery may be drained/discharged, try charging it first or bring it in to have it tested before you buy a new one.


CHANGING SERPENTINE ACCESSORY BELT

Q: How do you change a 2002 4cyl. Camry serpentine belt? What needs to be loosened?

A: First thing is to draw a diagram of the pulleys and how the belt is routed. for some reason toyota decided that they didnt need to put a sticker with this info under the hood...

Next, right behind the alternator, their is an aluminum type plate that is conected to the tensioner pulley. it has what looks like a nut welded to a plate, i think it is 14mm. put a socket wrench on that and use some power and push it down (it takes quite a bit so if your operating solo use a pipe on the end of the wrench for leverage while you take the belt off with the other hand). This will loosen the belt enough to get it off the alternator pulley. Switch out the belt, and reverse the process to get it back on.

You can see the tensioner if you look straight now the side of the engine, it looks like a little shock absorber, and is attached to both the pulley and that plate.

BLOWER MOTOR FOR HEATER OR A/C DOES NOT WORK ON ALL SPEEDS

Q: My blower motor doesn't work for the bottom three speeds. What is the problem - is it the motor or what?

A: It is most likely a bad connection or bad resistor on the resistor block that controls the current to the motor. See the discussion in the following links:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=252829

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml

Thanks to yotarepair.com for alternative instuctional drawings:

TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS

Q: My engine stopper running suddenly on the highway and now it won't start. Any guesses as to what the problem is? How do I replace my timing belt? What should I replace while I'm in there to save time in the future?

A: It sounds like you may have broken your timing belt. If you can see the cam shafts by looking through the oil filler hole in the head cover, then you can use these as an indicator. If the cams don't turn when the engine is cranked, your timing belt is broken. You may have to remove the valve cover.

You can also tell if your timing belt has broken by removing the distributer cap and seeing if the rotor moves when you crank the engine. If the rotor doesn't move, then you broke the timing belt.

Here are links to instructions for replacing the timing belt in various Camry engines:

1C-LTC, 2C-LTC, 2S-ELC, 3S-FE, 5S-FE, 2VZ-FE, 3VZ-FE, 1MZ-FE

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e6/07/0900823d8013e607.jsp

3S-FE
http://yotarepair.com/3S-FEtimingbelt.html

5S-FE (also http://yotarepair.com/5S-FEtimingbelt.html )
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE19.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE20.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE21.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE22.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE23.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE24.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE25.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE26.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE27.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE28.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5SFE-TimingBelt/5SFE29.jpg

1MZ-FE (also http://yotarepair.com/1FZ-ME_timingbelt.html )
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE16.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE17.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE18.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE19.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE20.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE21.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE22.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE23.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE24.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE25.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/1MZFE-TimingBelt/1MZFE26.jpg

Additional Comments on Replacing Timing Belts

Other than the timing belt whether or not you need more parts depends on if there are any fluid leaks inside the timing cover, the water pump may need to be replaced and there may be oil seals such as the front crankshaft seal or the camshaft seals that may be leaking and need to be replaced.

If you do it yourself, make sure you understand how to set #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke. Also, be prepared to stop and put everything back together if you find you cannot remove the crank pulley bolt. I think this is the hardest part from a strength point of view. Air gun is best way. Really long cheater bar with tool to hold the crank is also good.

Also, be careful and gentle with the new timing belt. Handle it as if it were a piece of gold foil. Don't bend it sharply, contaminate it with anything, or turn it inside out.

Don't scratch the sensor part of the crankshaft timing pulley.

Don't use the timing belt tension to tighten the mounting bolt of the camshaft timing pulley.

If there is noticeable wear or cracks on the belt face, check to see if there are nicks on the side of the idler pulley lock.

If there is wear or damage on only one side of the belt, check the belt guide and alignment of each pulley.

If there is noticable wear on the belt teeth, check the timing cover for damage, correct gasket installation, and for foreign material on the pulley teeth.

Check to make sure the idler pulley turns smoothly. If not, replace.

Clean all the pulleys and keep them clean.

If you have to turn the crankshaft, always turn it clockwise.

Make sure you have all the gaskets you need. Clean the gasket surfaces to shiny metal everywhere before you replace the gaskets. Replace the timing cover gaskets if they are at all questionable.

Make note of all the electical connections you disconnect when you disconnect them. Make sure they are all connected when you are done (DOH!).

Consider replacing the water pump simultaneously. It will be accessible when you are replacing the belt. Also, check the accessory drive belts and replace them if they are old.

Torque everything.


INTERFERENCE ENGINES
Q: What is an interference engine and is my Toyota engine an interference engine? Why should I care?

A: An interference engine is one in which the valves and pistons can touch if the cams and crank are not kept in correct timing by the timing belt or chain. Most (not all) Toyota passenger car engines are free-running (non-interference engines). This means that if your timing belt breaks, then all that will happen is your engine will not run anymore until the belt is replaced. In an interference engine, piston-to-valve contact will cause very serious damage to the engine if the timing belt breaks.

To see if your engine is an interference engine or not, look it up in the following brochure:

http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=428-1466_web.pdf&folder=brochure

An asterisk opposite your engine means it is an interference engine.

SERVICE PUBLICATIONS
Q: Where can I purchase Toyota Service and Repair Manuals for my Camry?

A: Printed copies of all Toyota, Scion, and Lexus service support information can be purchased directly from the Toyota Materials Distribution Center or MDC. The MDC stocks printed versions of most Toyota service information products, including legacy model information that is not available on this site.

Note: Certain inventory items are produced in limited quantities and may not be reprinted or reissued once initial inventory is depleted.

MDC telephone operators accept Visa and MasterCard credit card orders, Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM Pacific Time.

To place orders call 1-800-622-2033

VARIOUS USED MANUALS - mostly older
http://www.autobooksonline.com/

TRANSMISSION REPAIR MANUALS
Q: Where can I purchase transmission repair manuals?

A: http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/page/267592

RENT ONLINE ACCESS TO MANUALS HERE:
http://www.eautorepair.net/
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

PROGRAMMING TRANSPONDER IGNITION KEYS

Thanks to Sparky at talkaboutautos.com

Q: How do I program a transponder ignition key for my Toyota/Lexus vehicle?

A: 98-01 CAMRY's: The programming sequence for adding another key (Toyota key part number 89785-26020) to the Camry, according to the ILCO key company catalog, and a Toyota maintenance manual I have seen, is as follows: Simultaneously depress and release the brake and accelerator pedals 1 time (one instruction kind of hints that you should hold the pedals down while you insert the master key, the next step). Insert the master key in the ignition, but do not turn it. Within 15 seconds press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times. Then within 20 seconds press & release the brake pedal 6 times. Within 10 seconds remove the master key, and insert the new key. Within 10 seconds press & release the accelerator 1 time. The security light will stay off after 60 to 80 seconds indicating the re-programming was successful. Remove the new key, and depress & release the brake pedal 1 time.

02 TO EARLY-03 CAMRY's: The programming sequence for adding another key (Toyota key part number 89785-26020) to the Camry, according to the key company catalog is as follows: Make sure all windows and doors are closed, and insert the master key in the ignition. Cycle the ignition key ON/OFF 5 times and leave the key in the lock. Open/Close the driver side door 6 times. Remove the original key and insert the new duplicate key, BUT DO NOT TURN THE KEY ON. The theft light will stay off after 60 to 80 seconds indicating the re-programming was successful. Do not laugh while executing this sequence.

MID-03 TO 2004 CAMRY's: Currently there is no (easily available) programming sequence that the customer can use. A new key is used (Toyota key part number 89785-60160) that has a small letter "o" stamped on the brass part of the key up near the handle. Apparently, only the dealer can program in a new transponder code into the ECM via the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) computer.

ACE hardware and others, sell the non-"o" key for much less than $75, but you have to program the ECM in the car yourself. Camelback Toyota charges $150 to supply & program a key for a Mid-03 Camry. Larry Miller Toyota sells the key for $75 and programs it for free. Bell Road Toyota sells the key for $75, but it's not clear if they charge for programming. If the ECM is truly programmed through the OBD, then I think it is only a matter of time before somebody like Pep Boys or Autozone will do it too!

According to the ILCO catalog, all of the key numbers programmed into a 98 to Early-03 ECM (other than the number of the key you are using) can be deleted by using the following sequence: Simultaneously depress & release the brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. Insert a working key into the ignition but do not turn it. Within 15 seconds depress & release the accelerator pedal 6 times. Within 20 seconds depress & release the break pedal 7 times. The security light will flash indicating that all key numbers, other than the one being used, have been deleted from the ECM memory. Within 10 seconds remove the key from the ignition switch. This is now the only key that will work.

Brian Edit: Here's a link to the ILCO catalog:

http://www.kaba-ilco.com/key_systems/pdf/2005_Auto_Truck_Key_Blank_Reference_[2816-E-0205].pdf

An alternative to reprogramming the ECM when you have no programed master key:

Stefan: "I called the parts department at local dealership I usually get parts from (I own a custom body&paint/collision shop) and they told me, that there is a way to get TOYOTA CORP. to actually replace the ECM free of charge, all I have to pay for is two keys @ $41 list price and the labor to swap out the ECM.

The car has to have original ECM it came from the factory with, simple as that!

I called TOYOTA Corp, they asked a few questions and ran a VIN# in their sytem and said my car falls under that category for a FREE ECM!! WOOT!. They said it will take 3-5 business days to mail/ship the ECM to the dealership of my choice, once it gets there, dealership will call me to bring/tow the car in and all I have to pay is for the labor to swap out ECM AND the cost for 2 new keys!, I will update you on the outcome of this situation."

Stefan


INFORMATION ON TRANSPONDER KEYS AND PROGRAMMING THE ECM WHEN THERE ARE NO PROGRAMMED KEYS AVAILABLE (yes, apparently it is possible):

http://www.locksmithcharley.com/transponder.html

Locksmith Charley has the following instructions posted:

These procedures are modified from those published in other forums after several experiences with cars not programming up in an efficient manner. This procedure was developed with the kind assistance of Randy Mize who provides technical support for ILCO’s SDD machine. I also received valuable input on this subject from Mike Labar.

Of primary importance is determining if you have a key that is enrolled in the car’s computer as a “master” key or a “valet” key. The procedure for making this determination is:

1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.

2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur:
(a) Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
(b) Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
(c) Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key

If you have only a VALET key or an unrecognized key then the ECM will have to be reprogrammed or “flashed” before you are able to add any more keys to the vehicle. The ECM reprogramming (flashing) service can be provided to you by LOCKSMITH CHARLEY (1-602-230-8888 or 1-800-313-5397) at the shop at 2308 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix AZ 85016. If you are not local to the Phoenix area you can ship the ECM to us and we can flash it and send it back to you the same day we receive it.

Once you have determined that you have an enrolled MASTER key you may proceed to either:
(a) delete all other keys from the car’s computer
(b) add an additional MASTER key to the car’s computer.
(c) add an additional VALET key to the car’s computer.

PROCEDURES FOR PROGRAMMING

A - Delete all keys other than present master key
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Within 15 seconds press and release the gas pedal 6 times.
9. Within 20 seconds, forcefully press and release the brake pedal 7 times. The Security light will blink.
10. Within 10 seconds, remove the master key. All other keys should be deleted from the car’s computer.

B - add an additional MASTER key to the car’s computer
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9. Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10. Remove key
11. Place new key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
12. Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13. Wait (about 1 minute) for security light to stop blinking.
14. Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15. Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16. Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end
17. Insert new key into ignition lock and start the vehicle.

C - add an additional VALET key to the car’s computer
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9. Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10. Remove key
11. Place new key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
12. Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13. Wait (about 1 minute) for security light to stop blinking.
14. Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15. Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16. Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end
17. Insert new key into ignition lock and start the vehicle.

This information is presented to you as a public service of:
LOCKSMITH CHARLEY
2308 E. Indian School Rd.
Phoenix AZ 85016
(602) 230-8888 / 1-800-313-5397

Here is a discussion of the various types of keys:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176485

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Q: How can I find out what maintenance is recommended for my Camry at 60k (or whenever)?

A: Fill out the form on the following site: http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet?popup=new&tid=edmunds..directoryalpha.directory..1.*

OIL AND OIL-CHANGE INTERVAL, AND OIL FILTER BRAND RECOMMENDATIONS

Q: What is the best motor oil to use in my car and how often should I change it? What is the best brand of oil filter?

A: These questions have more answers and opinions than there are grains of sand on a beach. Read opinions at the following site and become one of the opinionated on these subjects:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

As a general rule, if you want longer oil-change intervals and don't mind paying more for your oil, use an oil with a synthetic base stock such as Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, etc. Use the oil viscosity that is recommended in your owner's manual.

OIL ANALYSIS AND OIL CHANGE INTERVAL
To determine the optimum oil change frequency for your vehicle requires that you perform several oil analysis during one oil change interval. For example, if your vehicle has 15,000 miles on it and the manufacturer recommends 7500 mile oil changes for normal service and 5000 miles for severe, perform an analysis at 18,750 miles, 20,000 miles, and 22,500 miles (if the first or second test shows a need for an oil change then stop there). Do not exceed the manufacturer's normal service interval even if the analysis shows no need for an oil change at 7500 miles. The oil change industry desperately desires that you NOT perform such an analysis. The almost certain result for most drivers will be that even at 7500 miles the oil will still be fine.

Even after your vehicle is out of warranty it is a good idea to continue to follow the manufacturer's schedule for maintenance. There are frequently special campaigns (not recalls) to fix latent defects after the warranty has expired. Lately we've seen these on some Toyota V6 engines and some Saturn engines. You want the manufacturer to have no excuse to deny coverage. Also you can sometimes get a manufacturer to share the cost of an expensive repair when something fails after the warranty has expired, but this is at their pleasure and it is best to have solid proof that you have followed the maintenance schedules.

Big oil users like bus companies and truck fleets use oil analysis to extend the life of their engines without unnecessary oil changes. The reasons are clear. These big engines can use 3-4 gallons of oil and unnecessary changes are expensive in both time and materials. In some cases they change the filters and put in additives to replace the acid neutralizers and anti-wear agents. A good analogy is swimming pool maintenance. You clean the filters, you remove the debris, you add stabilizers and disinfectants, but you rarely empty the whole pool and refill it.

Two places to get your oil analyzed are:

Lubricon Lubricant Consultants, Inc 350 E. Churchman Ave. Beech Grove, IN 46107 (317) 783-2968

Cleveland Technical Center 18419 Euclid Avenue Cleveland, OH 44112-1016 (800) 726-5400

API CERTIFICATION, PHOSPHOROUS & ZDDP
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection.

Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer often have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. AMSOIL has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.

MOTOR OIL MYTHS AND FACTS
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE AND RECOMMENDATIONS
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3157041#post3157041

OIL FILTER STUDIES

Q: What oil filters are the best?

A: Here are studies performed on various brands of filters. Make your own judgement:

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

OIL ADDITIVES

Q: What about the various oil additives?

A: Here's a discussion on the subject:
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/snake-oil.htm

In general, lubricating oil contain additive packages that have been certified to provide a minimum level of protection as specified by the specification they meet (SF or whatever). Adding an additive to the oil is something you should do sparingly.

For a discussion of additive packages, see:
http://www.dirtroadmagazine.com/oil.htm

WHAT LUBRICANT TO USE

Q: What lubricants should I use in my '96 Camry differential, transmission, engine, etc?

A: Look up your vehicle on the AMSOIL website and look down the list for the lubricant they recommend:

https://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf:index

Thanks to sanengo and Toysrme for the following ideas:

Want more horsepower? Not enough money for a Turbo?

(If you have enough money and time to hook up a turbo in a 5S-FE, see:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3860815&postcount=50 )

and

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236305

Q: How do I increase the power of my Camry?

A: Custom weld a wider Y-pipe for V6. Brospeed (Bosal) used to sell a header bolt on kit for V6, but it has now been discontinued. (2.5" recomended and a device to lean out fuel)

Performance headers (Not emissions safe)

Hi-flow cat with wider downpipe: 2.5" should be enough for i4, 3" for V6

Exhaust: For those with i4 engines, swapping to the V6 muffler does help if you have other exhaust mods. For V6 owners, custom mufflers don't do much. In general, anything after the CAT won't do much.

Installing a performance air filter or cold air intake (CAI) is not a very wise investment for power, but if every bit helps, and you enjoy a more throaty sound, go for it. Get recommendations from others with your engine. Some intakes actually cost you power, but sound louder.

Make sure there is some give to the CAI system. Some CAIs bolt directly to the engine and to the body at each end. When the engine moves, the end bolted to the body has no give and may tear the bolts out of the body where attached.

TRD, AEM, and AMSOIL sell excellent and reusable oil-impregnated air filters. The AEM and TRD filters are the same and are cotton-fiber based. The AMSOIL filter is multi-layer foam.[/edit]

CLEAN YOUR ENGINE TO REGAIN LOST POWER! Carb cleaner, GM top engine cleaner, or SeaFoam to start with. GET RID OF ENGINE CARBON! Believe it or not, spraying a small stream of water through the brake booster vacuum line of your engine can clear away carbon deposites VERY efficiently. (Just don't hydrolock your engine, if the engine is choking too much push on the butterfly valve on your TB)

[B]For any vane-flap Toyota vehicle. 22RE's, 3S's, VZ blocks... And most other AFM vehicles.

This is a vane-flap air-flow meter. You slice the silicon glue off the top, and pry the black plastic top off Exposing the innards.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/Answers/AFM-2.jpg

An AFM. It is not a MAF... They measure the VOLUME of airflow, by a flap, held closed by spring tension. On top of the flap is a small arm, which rotates along what essentially is a pointometer.

The ECU sends an exact voltage to the AFM, and reads the flap. It also reads a small air temperature sensor in the AFM housing. From this -> an AFM can accurately meter the MASS of airflow. (the important part!)

1) Reset the ecu - pull the EFI fuse for one nanosecond and replace it
2) Cut glue
3) Pry UP plastic top
4) PAINT THE STARTING COG
5) Rotote cog clockwise

3 clicks, 5 clicks, 7 clicks seem to be where people like. As soon as you get over the shock factor, most of the gain is 5-7 clicks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/Answers/AFM-4.jpg

You'll gain mid rpm range power. You'll also gain top rpm range power under a high load (i.e. top gear-top speed runs). Don't be surprised if you rev back to back in park and it's a tad slower from less fuel -> it will be noticeably faster on the street when there is a load on the engine.

Grind down your ACIS valve and clear away carbon deposits to smooth out this turbulent area.

Porting the upper intake manifold doesn't really do jack. I've always told people to take the throttlebody off and knife edge the 1/2" flat surface behind it, but it doesn't make any impact on anything near stock. The upper intake air chamber splits the intake into a top and bottom section. The split is after the throttlebody, and very un-aerodynamic.

LOW-COST LOW-RESISTANCE INTAKE THAT WORKS
(Thanks to Toysrme for this discussion)

Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:
Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.

Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot/Auto parts store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.

1) Drill/grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange as shown in the following picture

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/TFMS/AFMMod-1.jpg

2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/TFMS/AFMMod-2.jpg

3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Check the fit of the bard in the hole and then Goop/Epoxy/whatever the hose barb in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/TFMS/AFMMod-3.jpg

4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on
5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM
6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it
7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY
8) Reconnect the AFM
9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-ass. Then replace it.

This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.

Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.
Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/TFMS/AFMComplete-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/TFMS/AFMComplete-2.jpg

(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.
You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous discussion on that.

CAMRY PERFORMANCE PARTS
1) http://www.doaracingengines.com/4cylcamshafts.html
2) http://www.mr2.com/Performance.html
4) http://www.procarparts.com/
5) http://www.rippmods.com/
6) http://store.summitracing.com
7) http://www.securityrace.com
8) http://www.cscracing.com/se.htm

BODY KIT RECOMMENDATIONS

Q: Anyone have any recomendations for body kits for my Camry?

A: Try these sites for starters:

http://www.visracing.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=camry

http://www.extremedimensions.com/

BRAKE LININGS

Q: What are the best brake linings for my Camry? Are there any things I should watch out for in changing them?

A: The Toyota OEM linings are very good and I recommend them for most uses - I use them exclusively. They are quiet, have good life, and don't trash the rotor/drum. Ceramic linings have been recommended to me, but I haven't tried them. Cheap asbestos linings generally sound like Cooter's Hell when you are stopping and should be used only if you and anyone riding in your car are deaf.

You should refinish the rotors if there are any grooves worn in the rotors or if there is any side-to-side wobble (runout). Drums always have to be refinished.

Also, be careful not to inhale brake dust from the old pads. Don't blow the dust with your lungs or compressed air to clean the brake parts. Clean the old backing plate, rotor, caliper, etc. with a spray brake cleaner. Use a drip pan to catch the run-off.

Always use new springs for the drum brakes. Use high temperature brake grease on all pivot points in drum braking systems.

Don't get any liquid on the brake linings or they will be garbage. Don't even touch the linings with your fingers.

Watch for wetness around the wheel cylinders, particularly inside behind the dust shields. The cylinders have to be honed or replaced if they leak at all.

Flush your brake system periodically to get rid of water and contaminents. These lower the boiling point of the brake fluid and can cause brake failure or pitting of the wheel cylinders.

Back off the star wheels on the bottom of the drum mechanism to allow the brake linings to clear the ridge created by drug wear. Use two screwdrivers or other bladed tools that fit in the oval opening covered by the rubber boot.

Last but not least, after you change your linings, drive your car like your grandmother for a week or two. This finish cures the brake lining material and will give you a much longer brake life.

PULSATING BRAKE PEDAL

Q:I 've noticed this problem for quite a while. The brake pedal shakes (vibrates) when braking at or above 50 mph. It happens every time i go down a long slope or on highway. The streering wheel shakes a little bit too. It does not happen below 40 mph. I change the brake pads (front) this March and it did not fix the problem. So what can be the problem? Thanks

A: Your brake rotor runout is excessive. basically they're warped

Q: Then what work needs to be done? Replace the rotors or resurface them?

A: You are correct; resurface them if there is enough meat left on them (wherever you take them to be cut will check the thickness first) or replace them with new ones. If there is plenty of pad left, just sand the pads lightly so they will seat better to the new rotor surface.

BRAKE LIGHT ON DASH COMING ON INTERMITTENTLY

Q: Okay so as I'm driving down the road sometimes my emergency brake light comes on and then after a little while it goes off. Also when I push the button to make sure that it's not engaged the light still doesn't go off. Is there something that I can check, or is there something that may have gotten crossed?

A: You are most likely low on brake fluid in the master cylinder. After checking and refilling the master cylinder, inspect the thickness of the front brake pads and the thickness of the pads or shoes in the rear. When the fluid level drops that far, it usually indicates there has been considerable wear on them and it might be time for replacement of the pads and/or shoes. (Mike Gerber)

Here's an article on rotor problems:
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/brakingsystems.htm

How brakes work:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/brake.htm

How disc brakes work:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake.htm

How drum brakes work:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake.htm

How anti-lock brakes work:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/anti-lock-brake.htm

Here are general discussions on the topic:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic20316.htm
http://www.asbestos-institute.ca/safemanual/section5/section5d.html
http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/tt68.pdf
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov2002/mech.cfm

TIRE SIZE COMPENSATION CALCULATOR

Q: Please tell me how to calculate the speedometer error if I go to different than stock tire diameters.

A: Here is a calculator just for that purpose:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

REPROGRAMMING REMOTE ENTRY
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=126305&page=1&pp=15

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=73219

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=383114

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=367962

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=348186

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=360771

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=172063

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=4129568&postcount=12

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=126305

Toyota security systems in general:

http://toyotasecurity.buypartsonline.biz/

ECT

Q: What does the button on my console labeled "ECT" do?

A: ECT is an abreviation for "Electronically Controlled Transmission". The button has two positions, "POWER" and "NORMAL". When switched to the "POWER" position, the ECM shifts the transmission at higher engine rpm in every gear. It also affects the function of the torque converter lock-up mechanism.

For further discussion see the following thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=128958&page=1&pp=15

With regard to the stiffness of the upshifts, in all of the A140, and A54X transmissions, as the throttle angle rises, more pressure is built up. This does not change the maximum pressure exerted during the shift, or while in gear. Thus the shift stiffness is unchanged in either ECT mode.

(Thanks to Toysrme for adding the above clarification on shift stiffness.)

OVERDRIVE

Q: What is the function of the overdrive? Is it a separate unit or actually part of my transmission? What happens when I push the button on the side of my shifter and light the "O/D OFF" indicator?

A: The overdrive is the highest (lowest numerically) gear in your transmission, by definition higher geared than 1:1 or direct drive - and it is integral with your transmission. When you push the button on the shifter and light the "O/D OFF" indicator, you prevent your transmission from engaging the O/D gear and it stays in the next highest gear.

Preventing OD from engaging is useful when you are in stop and go traffic and never get above 30 mph for any length of time. Then, the only time you engage the O/D gear is when you let off the accelerator - causing the transmission to make an unnecessary upshift when you are slowing down. It is also useful to disengage the O/D when you are in hilly country or towing and find your transmission is not able to stay in the high gear. It is better to maintain the next highest gear by turning off the O/D than to have the transmission searching for the correct gear.

How an automatic transmission works:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm

TSBs: TECH SERVICE BULLETINS

Q: Where can I find Tech Service Bulletins for my Camry?
A: http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/index-issue.html

http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/

http://www.infotraxx.com/?a_aid=15&a_bid=3

http://www.alldata.com/recalls/

Gen4 Camry:
http://www.toyotanation.com/faq/download/gen4-tsb.pdf

Gen5 Camry:
http://www.toyotanation.com/faq/download/gen5-tsb.zip

CRUISE CONTROL MALFUNCTION

Q: I just had my starter replaced in my '95 Camry and now I've found that the cruise control doesn't work. The light just flashes and the car doesn't hold cruising speed. Anyone have any idea what I should do?

A: Check the connection near the front of the cruise control actuator. Make sure it is tight and clipped together. The cruise control actuator is next to the battery. The actuator connector is near the radiator. It is common for mechanics to overlook reconnecting this actuator after work has been done on the engine.

ENGINE VIBRATION IN 4-CYLINDER

Q: When my 2.2L Camry is idling and the transmission is in Drive, the steering wheel vibrates pretty strong. However, there is no vibration when the transmission is in Neutral or Park. Is this a serious problem?

A: As long as the vibration is only moderate, this is normal for a transverse mounted 4-cylinder Camry. The engine pulses and moves forward and back, moving the steering wheel slightly with each cylinder firing. If the vibration is very strong, it is likely that you have a loose or defective motor mount.

BRAKE PROBLEM INDICATOR LIGHT COMES ON INTERMITTENTLY

Q: My brake warning light on my dash comes on when I go around corners or stop suddenly. Is this normal? Will it be expensive to fix?

A: It is likely that the warning light is coming on because your brake fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir is getting too low. There is a level indicator in the reservoir and it detects the change in fluid level when the fluid shifts because of braking or cornering. Fill the reservoir and the problem should go away.

MANY WARNING LIGHTS COME ON AT THE SAME TIME

Q: Almost a month ago I noticed the the 3 warning lights would come on and off intermitently, but lately they are mostly on. I haven't noticed any change in the driving, but thought it might be worth checking. Any ideas of what maybe the cause?

A: When the instrument panel warning lights get flakey like you describe, almost always it's the alternator.

NOISY FRONT SUSPENSION OVER BUMPS

Q: I bought a used 1997 Camry XLE with 60,000 miles about 2 years ago. Most times when I go over a speed bump or pothole, there is a distinct rattle or clunk in the right front suspension. There is no noise in the left front. One mechanic said it was a worn bushing and the part cost over $200 and $150 labor to replace. Other than the noise, the suspension seems OK. Should I have the bushing replaced or just go for 2 new struts? Or is there an less expensive alternative?

A: What the mechanic meant by front bushing may be the suspension suport or the strut mount bearing (see below).

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/Suspension/97-01StrutMount.jpg

If either of these items are damaged, your strut may no longer be held properly by the strut mount. If this is the case, you will definitely want to replace these parts as one of the things that can happen is that the spring may slide off the strut when hitting a bump. This will cause some pretty severe problems. The strut mount is pretty expensive...but it is definetely not worth it to wait.

Here are the TSBs for 1997 xle v6:

TSB # PG027-02 for Steering/Suspension - Ball Joint Inspection

TSB # ST008-01 for Front Suspension - Squeaking

TSB # SU001-00 for Suspension - Front Support Change Reduces Noise (a redesigned suspension support at the top of the strut tower)

TSB # SU003-98 for Suspension - Groans From Front Driving Over Bumps (involves replacing the "bump" rubber on the strut shaft with a new piece featuring six additional ribs)

TSB #SU00796 for Suspension - Rattle/Popping Noise From Front

Q: What years of Camrys are susceptable to getting this noise from the defective strut towers?

A: All Camrys '97 - '00

Q: Are the strut mounts easy to replace? having no experience w/ macpherson struts, my worst fear is unbolting the top off the strut mount and my last sight is seeing a spring launching out like a minuteman missile :)

A: You have to remove the strut from the car as an assembly, then use a spring compressor.

Q: Are the front spring bumpers easy to replace? actually, i have no idea what this is. i'm assuming its probably some type of polyurethane or rubber bumper/bushing between the strut tower and the strut mount. please correct me if i'm wrong here.

A: Spring Bumper- you will see it under the Upper strut mount/Upper Spring seat at the top of the strut shaft. Yes, they are easy to replace if you have a spring compressor to disassemble the strut.

Q: Do i need any special tools? SST from Toyota?

A: No. Just a spring compressor if you replace the shock.

After changing these parts out, do i need to do a 2 wheel or 4 wheel alignment?

A: No. Replacing the strut mounts does not change the steering or suspension geometry.

Cautions:

1) Do not remove the center nut (on the upper strut mount) while you have the strut assembly removed from the car without the spring compressor installed properly on the spring (tension off the center nut).

2) If the Car has ABS Brakes be very careful with the ABS Sensor/ Wire ($$Expensive). When the strut is removed don't let the lower control arm hang by the ABS wire!

Struts still in good shape? Now would be the time to change them!

HINTS FOR THE WISE
OK, I had the famous '97-99 clonking problem. After changing the sway bar links and bushings it was still there and I opted to change the strut mount.

This is actually not hard at all, a little sweat and time is all it takes if you are aware of the following, which I learned:

First lesson: The strut to control arm bolts are 22mm.

Of course I had 17,18,19,20,21,23,24,25 mm but no 22mm. Now I have. Set me back 1/2 hour.

Second lesson: The left and right side are different.

It dos not say on the strut mount box (from KYB) nor in the Haynes (I think). It is not stamped on the new mounts. BUT it is stamped on the old ones. This is done so that when you throw out the old ones you realized that there is a difference. And have to do it over again, due to Murphys law. (You had 50% chance of getting it right, but you will get it wrong).

I had the left strut out while I had put the left mount in the right side! So I thought: "Just use the old left mount, but change the bearing as these are the ones always wearing out on other cars, then I can just change the right mount back mount". This brings me to lesson #3:

Thrid Lesson: It is the strut mount that is worn, not the bearing.

After finishing up, I drove to the Diner. And the left side with the old mount/new bearing was still making noise. !$#@. Back on the Jack Stand, changing the strut mount and putting it back together.

But now everything is quiet. That is, now I can hear my rear mounts clonking..........

All in all, with some help from my father in law compressing the springs (this helps) it took me from 10:30AM to 5PM, including lunch and a trip for the right socket.

Hope this will help someone not do the same mistakes I did and get the job done faster.

-----------------------

PS Use a torque wrench 'cause it is surprising how tight some of the nuts have to be tightened and others not.

PPS I got my strut mounts (KYB OEM) at autopartswarehouse.com. ~$65 each + two day shipping.. Much cheaper than local, non-oem.

PPS My struts are original ('97) and in fine shape, rear ones just changed 'cause they were out.

Thanks joopa

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IN '94 CAMRY

Q: My 94 Camry check engine light has just come on recently. I've never seen it on until now and I don't know why. The car has 148k miles on it, what could be the problem? I have tried checking the code myself using the paperclip method that I found on this site, but could not get anything out of it. The light just stays on and does not blink once. How can I check the code? Is there a reset button or anything I can do? Any help is appreciated. TIA.

A: Your car maybe OBDII compliant which means you need a code reader. Check on the label attached to the underside of your hood. See if it says OBDII certified.

http://www.iequus.com/assets/manuals/3100E.pdf

OBD Codes:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/The_Exhaustive_Database_of_OBDI_and_OBDII_Engine_C odes.htm

Q: Can I purchase a reader at any autoshop? How much are they?

A: You need an adapter that is specific for Toyota. Most readers will work with the appropriate adapter. I have had trouble finding the right adapter at my local stores. I think online is the best place to buy one.

I think prices are $100 on up. One that monitors engine functions is particularly useful - feeds data into computer like notebook or hand-held pc.

If you live near an Autozone store, they will check it for free.

Q: I went to a Autozone store and they said that they could only do 96 and up. Is that true?

A: 1996 and later cars have to be OBDII compliant. Toyota made their 1994 and 1995 V6 Camrys OBDII compliant. If your car is, then point it out to him and they should check it. Check your emissions sticker under the hood. It will tell you if your car is OBDII compliant or not.

OBDII DTC CODES

A primer on OBDII DTC codes:
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1286&r=1

See also:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/index.php

Here are a list of generic and Toyota-specific DTC codes from http://www.iequus.com/assets/manuals/3100E.pdf

DTC Codes in BOLD have additional information or troubleshooting guide at the end of this post.

The above document also provided Manufacturer-specific DTC codes for Honda, General Motors, Ford, and Chrysler.

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DEFINITIONS
The following Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions lists represent the most complete information currently available. OBD II is an evolving system, and new codes and definitions will be added as the system matures. ALWAYS consult the vehicle’s service manual for code definitions not included in these lists.

The following code definition lists provide both Generic Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions and Manufacturer-Specific Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions for the following vehicles:

• OBD II Powertrain “GENERIC” (P0XXX) Diagnostic Trouble Codes. OBD II Generic Diagnostic Trouble Codes and their definitions apply to all makes and models of import and domestic vehicles that are “OBD II COMPLIANT”.

• OBD II Powertrain “MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC” (P1XXX) Diagnostic Trouble Codes. OBD II Manufacturer-Specific Diagnostic Trouble Codes and their definitions apply only to vehicles produced by the specific manufacturer (Ford, GM, Toyota etc.).

GENERIC OBD II CODE DEFINITIONS
P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0013 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0023 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0025 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0033 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit
P0034 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Low
P0035 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit High
P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0038 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0042 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0043 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0044 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0050 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0051 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0056 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0057 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0058 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0062 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0063 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0064 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0065 Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance
P0066 Air Assisted Injector Control Circuit or Circuit Low
P0067 Air Assisted Injector Control Circuit High
P0070 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0071 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Range/Performance
P0072 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0073 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0074 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0075 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
P0076 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0077 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0078 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
P0079 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0080 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0081 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)
P0082 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0083 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 2)
P0084 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)
P0085 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0086 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 2)

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Circuit Intermittent
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input
P0124 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0127 Intake Air Temperature Too High
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0148 Fuel Delivery Error
P0149 Fuel Timing Error
P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0162 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0163 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0164 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0165 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0166 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0167 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0168 Fuel Temperature Too High
P0169 Incorrect Fuel Composition
P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0173 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2)
P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0177 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0178 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0179 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit High Input
P0180 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0184 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0185 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0186 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0187 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0188 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0189 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0194 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P0196 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance
P0197 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low
P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High
P0199 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Intermittent

P0200 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1
P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2
P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 3
P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4
P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 5
P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 6
P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 7
P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 8
P0209 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 9
P0210 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 10
P0211 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 11
P0212 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 12
P0213 Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction
P0214 Cold Start Injector 2 Malfunction
P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction
P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction
P0217 Engine Overtemp Condition
P0218 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0219 Engine Overspeed Condition
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
P0233 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Intermittent
P0234 Engine Overboost Condition
P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0239 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0240 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0241 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Low
P0242 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit High
P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Malfunction
P0244 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range/Performance
P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Low
P0246 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A High
P0247 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Malfunction
P0248 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Range/Performance
P0249 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Low
P0250 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B High
P0251 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Malfunction
P0252 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Range/Performance
P0253 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Low
P0254 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam High
P0255 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Intermitted
P0256 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Malfunction
P0257 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Range/Performance
P0258 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Low
P0259 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam High
P0260 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Intermitted
P0261 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Low
P0262 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit High
P0263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0264 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0265 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit High
P0266 Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0268 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit High
P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0270 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0271 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit High
P0272 Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0273 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit Low
P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit High
P0275 Cylinder 5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0276 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit Low
P0277 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit High
P0278 Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0279 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit Low
P0280 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit High
P0281 Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0282 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Low
P0283 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit High
P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0285 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit Low
P0286 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit High
P0287 Cylinder 9 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0288 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit Low
P0289 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit High
P0290 Cylinder 10 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0291 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit Low
P0292 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit High
P0293 Cylinder 11 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0294 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit Low
P0295 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit High
P0296 Cylinder 12 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0298 Engine Oil Over Temperature

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
P0310 Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
P0311 Cylinder 11 Misfire Detected
P0312 Cylinder 12 Misfire Detected
P0313 Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
P0314 Single Cylinder Misfire (Cylinder not specified)
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0324 Knock Control System Error
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 2)
P0346 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0347 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0348 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0349 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0359 Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0360 Ignition Coil J Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0361 Ignition Coil K Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0362 Ignition Coil L Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 1)
P0366 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0367 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Low Input (Bank 1)
P0368 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit High Input (Bank 1)
P0369 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1)
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction
P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Many Pulses
P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Few Pulses
P0373 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Intermittent/ Erratic Pulses
P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A No Pulses
P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Malfunction
P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Many Pulses
P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Few Pulses
P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Intermittent/ Erratic Pulses
P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B No Pulses
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "B" Malfunction
P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
P0390 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 2)
P0391 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0392 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0393 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0394 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)

P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit High
P0407 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit Low
P0408 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High
P0409 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open
P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Malfunction
P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Open
P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Shorted
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0419 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0423 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0424 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0425 Catalyst Temperature Sensor (Bank 1)
P0426 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0427 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Low Input (Bank 1)
P0428 Catalyst Temperature Sensor High Input (Bank 1)
P0429 Catalyst Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1)
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0433 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0434 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0435 Catalyst Temperature Sensor (Bank 2)
P0436 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0437 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Low Input (Bank 2)
P0438 Catalyst Temperature Sensor High Input (Bank 2)
P0439 Catalyst Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2)
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
P0456 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak)
P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (fuel cap loose/off)
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0466 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0467 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0468 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P0469 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High
P0474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P0477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermittent
P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0481 Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0482 Cooling Fan 3 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction
P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction
P0486 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "B" Circuit
P0487 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Position Control Circuit
P0488 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Position Control Range/Performance
P0491 Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 1)
P0492 Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 2)

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction
P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P0508 Idle Control System Circuit Low
P0509 Idle Control System Circuit High
P0510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction
P0512 Starter Request Circuit
P0513 Incorrect Immobilizer Key ("Immobilizer" pending SAE J1930 approval)
P0515 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0516 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0517 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch Range/Performance
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch Low Voltage
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch High Voltage
P0524 Engine Oil Pressure Too Low
P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0533 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0534 Air Conditioner Refrigerant Charge Loss
P0540 Intake Air Heater Circuit
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0542 Intake Air Heater Circuit High
P0544 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1)
P0545 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0546 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0547 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 2)
P0548 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0549 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 2)
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0551 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0552 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0553 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0554 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
P0561 System Voltage Unstable
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0563 System Voltage High
P0564 Cruise Control Multi-Function Input Signal
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal Malfunction
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunction
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction
P0570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low
P0573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit High
P0574 Cruise Control System - Vehicle Speed Too High
P0575 Cruise Control Input Circuit
P0576 Cruise Control Input Circuit Low
P0577 Cruise Control Input Circuit High
P0578-P0580 Reserved for Cruise Control Codes

P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0602 Control Module Programming Error
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error
P0606 PCM Processor Fault
P0607 Control Module Performance
P0608 Control Module VSS Output "A" Malfunction
P0609 Control Module VSS Output "B" Malfunction
P0610 Control Module Vehicle Options Error
P0615 Starter Relay Circuit
P0616 Starter Relay Circuit Low
P0617 Starter Relay Circuit High
P0618 Alternative Fuel Control Module KAM Error
P0619 Alternative Fuel Control Module RAM/ROM Error
P0620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
P0621 Generator Lamp "L" Control Circuit Malfunction
P0622 Generator Field "F" Control Circuit Malfunction
P0623 Generator Lamp Control Circuit
P0624 Fuel Cap Lamp Control Circuit
P0630 VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch - ECM/PCM
P0631 VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch - TCM
P0635 Power Steering Control Circuit
P0636 Power Steering Control Circuit Low
P0637 Power Steering Control Circuit High
P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0639 Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
P0645 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P0646 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit Low
P0647 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit High
P0648 Immobilizer Lamp Control Circuit ("Immobilizer" pending SAE J1930 approval)
P0649 Speed Control Lamp Control Circuit
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction
P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
P0655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit Malfunction
P0656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction
P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 1)
P0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0662 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0663 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 2)
P0664 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0665 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit High (Bank 2)

P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High
P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0737 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit
P0738 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit Low
P0739 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit High
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off
P0747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent
P0760 Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P0761 Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off
P0762 Shift Solenoid C Stuck On
P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0764 Shift Solenoid C Intermittent
P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
P0766 Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off
P0767 Shift Solenoid D Stuck On
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0769 Shift Solenoid D Intermittent
P0770 Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
P0771 Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
P0772 Shift Solenoid E Stuck On
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical
P0774 Shift Solenoid E Intermittent
P0775 Pressure Control Solenoid "B"
P0776 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Performance or Stuck Off
P0777 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Stuck On
P0778 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Electrical
P0779 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Intermittent
P0780 Shift Malfunction
P0781 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0782 2-3 Shift Malfunction
P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
P0784 4-5 Shift Malfunction
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance
P0787 Shift/Timing Solenoid Low
P0788 Shift/Timing Solenoid High
P0789 Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent
P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0791 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit
P0792 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0793 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0794 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0795 Pressure Control Solenoid "C"
P0796 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Performance or Stuck Off
P0797 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Stuck On
P0798 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Electrical
P0799 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Intermittent

P0801 Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction
P0805 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit
P0806 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0807 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Low
P0808 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit High
P0809 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0810 Clutch Position Control Error
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
P0812 Reverse Input Circuit
P0813 Reverse Output Circuit
P0814 Transmission Range Display Circuit
P0815 Upshift Switch Circuit
P0816 Downshift Switch Circuit
P0817 Starter Disable Circuit
P0818 Driveline Disconnect Switch Input Circuit
P0820 Gear Lever X-Y Position Sensor Circuit
P0821 Gear Lever X Position Circuit
P0822 Gear Lever Y Position Circuit
P0823 Gear Lever X Position Circuit Intermittent
P0824 Gear Lever Y Position Circuit Intermittent
P0825 Gear Lever Push-Pull Switch (Shift Anticipate)
P0830 Clutch Pedal Switch "A" Circuit
P0831 Clutch Pedal Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0832 Clutch Pedal Switch "A" Circuit High
P0833 Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit
P0834 Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit Low
P0835 Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit High
P0836 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit
P0837 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit Range/Performance
P0838 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit Low
P0839 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit High
P0840 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit
P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0842 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0843 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High
P0844 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Intermittent
P0845 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit
P0846 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Range/Performance
P0847 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low
P0848 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High
P0849 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Intermittent

TOYOTA-SPECIFIC OBD II CODE DEFINITIONS
P1100 BARO Sensor Circuit malfunction
P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1125 Throttle Control Motor Circuit Malfunction
P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P1127 ETCS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction
P1128 Throttle Control Motor Lock Malfunction
P1129 Electric Throttle Control System Malfunction
P1130 Air-Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P1133 Air-Fuel Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction
P1135 Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction
P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction
P1153 A./F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction
P1155 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction

P1200 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Malfunction

P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1
P1305 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 2 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1310 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 2 (Except 1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1310 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 3 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1315 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 4 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1320 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 5 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1325 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 6 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1330 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 7 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1335 No CKP Sensor Signal Engine Running
P1340 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 8 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1346 VVT Sensor /Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem (Bank 1)
P1349 VVT System Malfunction
P1351 VVT Sensor /Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem (Bank 2)

P1400 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Malfunction
P1401 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1405 Turbo Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1406 Turbo Pressure Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1410 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1411 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Ranger/Performance

P1500 Starter Signal Circuit Malfunction
P1510 Boost Pressure Control Circuit Malfunction
P1511 Boost Pressure Low Malfunction
P1512 Boost Pressure High Malfunction
P1520 Stop Lamp Switch Signal Malfunction
P1565 Cruise Control Main Switch Circuit Malfunction

P1600 ECM BATT Malfunction
P1605 Knock Control CPU Malfunction
P1630 Traction Control System Malfunction
P1633 ECM Malfunction ECTS Circuit
P1645 Body ECU Malfunction
P1652 IACV Control Circuit Malfunction
P1656 OCV Circuit Malfunction
P1658 Waste Gate Valve Control Circuit Malfunction
P1661 EGR Circuit Malfunction
P1662 EGR By-Pass Valve Control Circuit Malfunction
P1690 OCV Circuit Malfunction
P1692 OCV Open Malfunction
P1693 OCV Closed Malfunction
P1780 PNP Switch Malfunction

****************************

TROUBLESHOOTING SOME COMMON CODES

P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A

See:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=692332

P0100
Mass or volume sensor or circuit

Possible Problems
MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad. MAF sensor may be faulty.

Reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken /frayed wires.
Unplug and reconnect the MAF wiring harness
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor

P0101
Mass or volume Circuit Range/Performance Problem

Possible Problems
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. The PCM detects that the actual MAF sensor frequency signal is not within a predetermined range of the calculated MAF value for more than 4.0 seconds.

Reset the code and see if it comes back
Inspect for the following conditions:
An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
- The secondary ignition wires or coils
- Any solenoids
- Any relays
- Any motors
A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor.
A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.
The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON.
When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude.
A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.

P0102
Mass or volume Circuit Low Input
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. MAF circuit had lower than expected voltage (air flow).

Possible Problems
The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF may be dirty or otherwise contaminated (if you use an oiled air filter such as a K&N air filter, some of the oil may have made it's way onto the MAF sensor).
The MAF sensor may be faulty
The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)

reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor.

P0103
Mass or Volume Circuit High Input.

Possible Problems
Mass Air Flow High (MAF) sensor or circuit. MAF circuit had higher than expected voltage (air flow).

The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF sensor may be damaged
The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)
reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.
Check the voltage