I was driving on the interstate and the engine just died. No sputtering or chugging. everything just died. I believe when it happened the gages all went to zero. I coasted to the side and tried to restart. The engine turns over just fine like the battery has plenty of power. The battery gage is reading the lowest value (9V). The Fuel reads empty ( I just filled the tank about 70 miles ago). I tried to get the trouble codes and could not (on - off 3,4 ,5 times, nothing). I did do the instrument check and the panel seems to be working (hold the odo reset and turn on).

I have checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood and the fusable link. I swaped some of the relays to check them as well. Looks I have added fuel. The fuel bar for the injectors do not presure up.

What could this be? I dont think this is a fuel pump though.

This is a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Unlimited.

lwd

I have a '94 GJC and had this problem, and it WAS the fuel pump. Given that you posted this a few days ago, have you learned any more since then? I had a shop diagnose my fuel pump problem (and replace it). Let us know what you find out.

NO CHEK ENGINE light at all?
hummmm deffinately a CPS symptom. But the FUEL guage reading EMPTY (after refilling), That wouldn't have anything to do with the CPS. Did ou say when you swapped relays the gas guage wen tback up?

My fuel guage has been acting up recently as well!

When ever I get down to about a 1/2 tank, the needle will go down & then come back up periodically (usually not back to where it should be)!

I now find myself checking the overhead console to see how much fuel is left, compared to checking the guage.

I know this is my fuel sending unit (Jeep currently runs fine), but I believe my fuel pump will go next since it's connected within the same unit.

Has anyone found a deal on fuel pumps, or are they all pretty generic?

My fuel guage has been acting up recently as well!

When ever I get down to about a 1/2 tank, the needle will go down & then come back up periodically (usually not back to where it should be)!

I now find myself checking the overhead console to see how much fuel is left, compared to checking the guage.

I know this is my fuel sending unit (Jeep currently runs fine), but I believe my fuel pump will go next since it's connected within the same unit.

Has anyone found a deal on fuel pumps, or are they all pretty generic?
$105 for a pump and fuel strainers kit at Pep Boys. I have a 97. What year is your GC? Don't even go to the Jeep stealer and have him try to sell you a complete pump/regulator/filter/sender unit for $600. Just change the pump. The kit even has a new fuel tank gasket. The sender unit has a small clip-on solid state module. There was a recall on those on some GC's.

My Jeep is '98 4.0.

$105 doesn't sound to bad for a new pump.

OK everyone get this.

I had to have the car towed from the Pomona area to my place $500

Then have it towed to my mechanic $100

pay some time for trouble shooting. $150

all for a $47 Crank sensor that had shorted. Can you belive that.

Some how the crank sensor failed and shorted to ground. This somehow brought the main CPU down and the outputs that went to the Instrument panel. This is what I would call a "good" design. lol

They were not able to get any codes from the computer. Sensor was removed tested and replaced. Everything works good now. I have since then tried to get the trouble codes out of it and all that works fine now. No codes though just a Done signal.

Leonard.

What is the "Instrument Check". Does holding the odo reset and turn the ignition switch on test something?

The Voltage, Fuel and Tempreture gages all go to zero on my Instrument Panel in my 99 Jeep GC when it stalls! After waiting 20 to 30 minutes, life is restored for another quick 5 to 7 mile jaunt.

Had a CPS (Crank Position Sensor) go bad 3 months ago, it actually gave me an error code. Replaced it with a $50 one from the dealership, and now, when the outside tempreture is reaching the upper 90's, hit 103 today, I getting 8 miles in 15 minutes before it stalls. Another poster states that Crank Position Sensors are not intermittant, they are usually all or nothing, eg, not intermittent while yet another poster states that the Crank Position Sensor is a common problem with all Jeeps and that over time they become temperature sensitive!

The CPS needs electricity to work and as such, they self heat and can go into thermal runaway which causes both spark and fuel systems to go crazy.

I replaced the CPS again with another one from the dealer presuming that I might have a flakey one, but it is doing the same thing.
The outer case on the origional one was made of all plastic, while the replacement one has a metal mounting tab on it where it bolts to the engine. Could this be causing it to absorb more heat?

I have the same problem right now.... My 97 JGC died on the road and all of the gauges went to zero. The engine would crank, but not start. Also the same thing happened with the codes. I'm so glad that it's not the PCM that went bad. I think I will try replacing my crank position sensor today.... Does anybody know if the CPS's are the same on a 94 and 97?

I have the same problem right now.... My 97 JGC died on the road and all of the gauges went to zero. The engine would crank, but not start. Also the same thing happened with the codes. I'm so glad that it's not the PCM that went bad. I think I will try replacing my crank position sensor today.... Does anybody know if the CPS's are the same on a 94 and 97?

Yes they are in the same place, year doesn't matter, just the engine.
* 4.0L- Driverside bellhousing.
* 5.2L/5.9L- Passengerside engine block, behind the right cylinderhead.

Does your CHECK ENGINE light come on when you turn the key to the ON Position?

Yes they are in the same place, year doesn't matter, just the engine.
* 4.0L- Driverside bellhousing.
* 5.2L/5.9L- Passengerside engine block, behind the right cylinderhead.

Does your CHECK ENGINE light come on when you turn the key to the ON Position?

No my check engine light does not come on.

Also does anybody what's the best way to reach the sensor? I read that it is a real pain!

I have a I6 4.0

Yes it is a real PITA. Which engine do u have (4.0L or 5.2L)?

4.0L Inline

email me and I will send you the instructions for removing the CPS, along with some pics of it's exact location which will make it a lil easier to get to and remove.

Joe
dksob81@hotmail.com

BIOHERTZ

After my 4.7 died the first time and wouldn't restart, it set the engine check light and I was able to retreive an error code. Replacing the CPS with one from the dealer fixed it so that it would at least start. But it also started an intermittent engine dieing problem, usually when its hot outside, 88 degrees and higher. Replacing the CPS 2 more times along with the Camshaft Sensor and Fuel Pump didn't change the intermittent engine dieing at any speed scenario. 2 of the CPS's were from the dealer one was from Rock Auto and they all seem to have the intermittent engine dieing problem. Most other posts I've read indicate that it is the PCM that fix's the intermittent engine dieing with all of the gauges going to zero for 30 minutes or so. If your engine died and it will crank but won't start, the CPS would be a good place to start. At least your not starting with the dealers laundry list of $600 for the fuel pump & filter, then the coil, plugs, wires, gas cap, and every sensor under the hood before they try the PCM that has an 8 year 80,000 mile warranty on it. Too bad if you go over the 8/80 while either you or they are working on it. The PCM for the 4.0 is under $200 from NAPA, the one for the 4.7 is only available from the dealer, is on at least 3 week back order and costs $500 plus another $100 for programming. You can read about this and other PCM failures on the WWW.NHTSA.dot.gov web site. There is a really good write up on a 99 JGC 4.7 with 35,000 miles on it. Theirs dies intermittantly too, once at 70 MPH with family on board, and the PCM apparantly fixed that problem.

Yeah, after replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I was still having the same problem... I am in the process of locating a used pcm. I hope that will solve the problem. What does the dealership need to program? You're not talking about different features? are you?

Jeep Technical Bullitin 082800: States that the instrument cluster can cut out if voltage to the gages drops below 9.5 volts. This can happen if the battery voltage is low, bad/dirty battery cables, or bad grounds.

To test the gages, with the ignition switch in the off position, depress and hold the odometer-reset button and then turn the ignition switch to the run position. Continue holding the odometer reset button until the cluster needles start to move. The gauges will sweep in both directions.

If you've got the dreaded intermittent engine dieing problem with all gages going to zero, it could be the PCM. You can get a remanufactured PCM for you 4.0 6 Banger from the after-market stores, NAPA, Autozone, Checker . . . for under $200 UNLESS your Jeep is under 8 years old and under 80,000 miles, the PCM is covered under the Extended Federal Immissions Warranty.

I've read that the PCM also has the voltage regulating circuitry for the Alternator on it . . . gota-love Daimler Benz quality aye! Reprogramming a PCM means lattest code to fix drivability issues, the VIN and milage?