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Overheating and quitting


markaz
06-18-2005, 10:37 AM
'91 Corsica 3.1 w/167,000 miles. Has run great until 2 weeks ago when it would idle slow/quit when coming to a stop. Unplugged the TC solenoid and no help. To the shop and the "diagnostics" said it was a bad TCC. Off to the transmission shop and $1600.00 for a re-build. 2 blocks after leaving the tranny folks the engine quit at an intersection. Began to overheat. Back to the original shop.
Now it gets good. They said the cooling fan switch needed to be replaced for the overheating problem + it would solve the idle problem because the excess heat alters the fuel/air mixture. I had them replace the original thermostat as well. Repaired and drove off. 1/2 mile later hot air from the A/C and temp guage climbing. Back to the shop. Pulled it in the bay and the radiator literally blew up. Said they would buy me a new radiator. Great......but what's the f---in' problem? They insist the cooling fan isn't kicking on. I saw it kick in when I popped the hood prior to the CF switch 'needing' to be replaced. And the low idle/quitting problem that took me in there in the first place? A-hole is telling me I've got "oil blow-over". Oil getting into the throttle body. Why?...I asked. "Because the engine's old. It's going to quit every once in a while. Thanks for comin' in."
Any suggestions other than "blow-over"?

jsgold
06-18-2005, 09:07 PM
What a shame. Unhooking the TCC will stop it from stalling at stops if it is bad, and mine is that way now (178K). If it stalls then it is due to several possible things. First would be the IAC (Idle Air Control) which has to be cleaned every year or so, especially on older engines. These will carbon up and needs to be removed, cleaned, checked for proper length, and the area in and around cleaned.(remove the plate near it and clean with injector cleaner). Remove the battery cable first. Then unplug the IAC and remove the two screws. Then, hook back up, start, and let it run 8-10 minutes (do NOT touch gas pedal at any time when starting or idleing). After it has relearned the idle, then spray injector cleaner into the plenum and do it several times. Should clear up poor idle if it is dirty. Other things that can cause stalling/poor idle include a vaccuum leak, misfiring due to shorted plug wire(s), coil pack, or blown gasket. Could even be the O2 sensor, digital EGR, or MAP sensor, however, you would get trouble codes on these. I wonder if the shop tested the computer for codes, or, just checked the transmission. As to overheating, water pump, clogged water jacket, stuck thermostat, bad fan relay or fan, the list is many possiblities. Watch for check engine light, and check/clean the IAC, and then check for old/leaking vaccum lines. Might want to invest 25 bucks or so in a code checker (OBDI).
One other thing, if the car idles OK but stalls, possible that crank sensor could be failing.

markaz
06-18-2005, 09:45 PM
jsgold---thanks for the reply. Just walked in the door with the new readiator installed. Cooling seems fine. I think they replaced the fan motor as it looks grime-free (at no charge). Have to drive it around the block a few times for the idle/stall problem. Will re-post and let you. It sound as though I should address the IAC regardless as I've had the buggy for 18 months and have never serviced it. Thanks for the infomation.

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