Recently I found a 735i that I absolutely fell in love with. It has 47k original miles. I bought it from the owner's son who kept it stored, at the family business for the past couple of years. Hasn't even been driven probably in the past two years at least. Story goes, it was his fathers who passed away and he just did not want any part of it, but they are expanding and need the space it took up. The radio needs replaced and the plate on the shift lever has come up missing (meaning you dont know if its in park, reverse, or drive). These are just little things that I would like to take care of before I let my fiance start driving it. Mechanically, its a 47,000 mile car, cosmetically, aside from the normal tough dry leather and what was mentioned above, its spotless. Any suggestions on how i came come acroos the above mentioned plate and radio? I would like to keep it all factory/stock if possible. Also, what about the onboard information center, chances of finding one to replace it possible as well? would love some help on these....thanks.

Well, I just mentioned this site to someone else--www.properautocare.com. They have lots advice and instructions, as well as unbiased (but educated) opinions and suggestions involving the hundreds and hundreds of products they sell at good prices. To address the hardened leather--there is no reason it has to remain that way--I would check out this page--http://www.properautocare.com/leatcarprod1.html. I have always used the Lexol products and like them very much. In fact, I just cleaned the interior of my car last week. I usually spray the Lexol leather CLEANER on leather that I have dampened with a moist cloth. Then I use a wet microfiber applicator (like the round kind used to apply wax) and scrub the leather until the cleaner and water turn into a soapy lather, just as if you were washing your face. When I'm done, I use the wet cloth to wipe off the leather and let it air dry. After that, I spray leather conditioner on a new microfiber applicator and spread that over the seats, leather-stitched door pulls, steering wheel, etc., which I buff off after it's soaked into the upholstery. There are products on the market made especially for hardened leather, and you may consider using them in addition to the above procedure. Anyways, regular repetition is sure to improve the appearance and feel of the leather in your car.

If you are ambitious and the seats have some real flaws, check out this link that shows how to wet-sand and redye seats for an amazing result: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1173.

For the other stuff, I would think a junkyard is the most cost-effective solution. The shift plate is pretty easy to remove/put in--you just have to find one with wood trim matching the rest of the interior. I personally hate aftermarket radios, but you could put one in. You could also just pull a stock one from a junked 7-Series, although you'll soon find that you'll need to go to a dealer to get the code for it (all BMW radios need a unique code entered if they've been disconnected from the battery power). And to replace the onboard computer, just reach in the hole where the radio goes and feel around the upper right corner of the hole--adjacent to the top left corner of the computer. There should be a plastic lever that you pull toward you as you grasp the front of the computer module and pull it out of the dash. That should be a simple junkyard swap too, plus I would get the three small bulbs replaced in it while you have it out of the car. I'm sure you can get a brand new computer from the dealer, but I DON'T know what they charge.

Also, if it's been outside for 2 years (or if the paint is just plain covered with dirt and stubborn contamination, I would wash the car, use a clay bar (see above site), maybe polish it, and wax it, and it will surely look as good as new.

I can't forget to mention this site--www.e38.org--which has a mind-blowing collection of very relevant tips, instructions, information and links related to the 1988-1994 and 1995-2001 7-Series (that's where the leather seat-repair link comes from).

47K miles is NOTHING for a BMW like that. You've got a FEW more miles of enjoyment before it needs anything major--probably about 200,000 more.

Best wishes and let me know if I can help with any info.
Craig

Thanks for the 411. This is the second BMW 7 series that I have had, I did have a 750 when I was 19, but my father took care of the maintenance at that time. Older, wiser, and business owner myself, I wanted to do this without spending as much as I did with the first. Particularly since I got a wedding, honeymoon, and ring I gotta pay for. Any how, I am having the leather replaced altogether, cost is about $1,500....i feel that it is well worth it though considering the condition of this car. This was dealer cost to me as well, so that helps. As for finding some junked 7 series, around here, thats next to impossible. I am in Arkansas, its Chevy's and Fords. HAHAHA.....not to dog my home state, love everything about it, but not many around here care for dealing with these types of cars. Last but not least, do you or anyone reading this thread no of how I may be able to get a list of BMW mechanics aside from the dealer? I have great jag, volvo, and porsche mechanics here, but none want to fool with this 7 series. I wonder why...hehehe, just kidding. Anywho, thanks again for the information, any more would be great.

Go here and enter your ZIP. I would suggest calling or e-mailing the chapter contact to see if she has any suggestions for finding a directory of mechanics in your area.

http://www.bmwcca.org/members/AM/Template.cfm?Section=Chapter_Finder&Template=/BMWCCA/CustomPages/ChaptersSection.cfm

I live in the Washington, DC area, so there are lots of people who appreciate the design and performance of BMW as well as Lexus, Acura, Mercedes, Volvo, etc. However, I've driven in rural Pennsylvania and seen that the the farther one goes from urban/suburban regions, the more likely people are to drive only GM, Ford and Chrysler, even if they could afford a nice used Volvo or Lexus. I've even driven through small towns where I could have sworn that my car was the only import within 5 miles. I can only imagine how it is in the midsection of the country (not to criticize your home state--I'd like to move down south myself).

I see you have two Cadillac Sevilles--I recently drove a 1997 DeVille d'Elegance, and was super impressed--I'd love to have one as a third car or something if I ever get to that point. Going 68-70 mph felt like I was using about 1/5 of the available power; driving down the highway at that speed felt like going through a school zone at 15 mph in an ordinary car. I can think of no better vehicle in which to take a cross-country trip with 3 other people--and that includes big Lexuses, BMWs, etc.

Well, it sounds like you are working toward having the lowest-mileage, most immaculate 735 on the road--keep up the good work.

Thank you for the info. I have been involved in the car business all my life. My father and I have dealt with these types of cars. However, that was ten years ago and some of my contacts (i.e. BMW mechanics) have either gone back to work at the local dealer, or retired. The two SeVilles I have just happen to be flukes....the '83 model came out of Fresno, California and is a one owner with only 80,000 miles. The 93, which i just sold, was somewhat of a show piece, I loved it for the fact it still had the 4.9 liter V-8. Cadillacs would seem like a great comfortable ride for long trips, but what I have learned in teh past is those soft cushion seats sometimes lead to back aches if you are in the car for two or more hours. Many importers such as Volvo, Toyota, etc, have done extensive research on this and that is why their seats always seem a little more firm and uncomfortable at first. But after my trip to Bristol, TN in my Volvo that I had, and to Georgia in a Toyota Sienna Van.....I prefer that firm seating and no back ache. LOL. Other thing I have always noticed is that dad gum Northstar. Its like throwing dice, never know what you are gonna roll. If you are looking a Cadillac which has a northstar engine, it will be well worth paying the local dealer hourly mechanic's wages to inspect the vehicle, thank god GM mechanics are a little more reasonable. Replacing a Northstar will run from $3,500 on up to $9,000 depending on where you go. Just a little FYI. Keep in touch, seems like we both have a lot of information that could help one another out.

Yes, absolutely.

I definitely did not know that about the Northstar engine. I knew they were pretty advanced when they came out, and could be driven a certain distance with no coolant at all. Had no idea they had these problems. I'd certainly buy an LS 400 or SC 400, and seriously probably another BMW or a Mercedes, before actually paying my own money for a DeVille. But I was just impressed with the drive, that's all. And late-model Cadillacs (at least around here) are so ridiculously cheap, often costing the same as imports that are 5-8 years older.

I have been working with a dealer myself, although I'm not officially "employed" at any dealership. Although I'm a couple classes short of a four-year degree, I've loved cars since the age or 2 or 3 and would rather do something automotive-related than anything else.

Right now I am working on a database of EVERY "high-end" car sold in the U.S., from model year 1980 through 2007. This includes everything from Buick Electras, Oldmobile Ninety Eights and Volvo 740s all the way up to Lamborghinis, the Maybach and McLaren F1. Each year, model and individual trim line gets its own line of data, so for example, you would have "1987 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency," then another line for "1987 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency Brougham," etc. Data I have on each car includes original MSRP, engine specifics including of course hp and torque stats, transmission choices including EPA fuel economy ratings, dimensions, weights and capacities, interior dimensions, plus all safety features listed as standard, optional or not available. I'm also including performance stats, production numbers where available, plus Kelly Blue Book (or NADA) values for every line of data. I've also added 17 spots for VIN number, filling in for each line the repetitive characters of that model to indicate how that specific model can be identified by VIN number alone. Sources for the data include both the "Standard Catalog of Imported Cars" and the "Standard Catalog of American Cars," as well as reputable online sources. Right now there are 5,006 lines of data in the database.

I really just developed this for my own use, but have been thinking it might be possible to market, since it will be so comprehensive when complete.

However, if you want ANY of this kind of information on a specific car, just let me know--I even could mail you a copy (Excel) on CD if you're at all interested.

Sorry to go off on that tangent, but I figured I'd share what I've been working on for a while now because maybe it would be useful.

Funny you mentioned the Oldsmobiles. My father was an Oldsmobile, Toyota, and GMC dealer in Russellville, AR for over 20 years. I was born in the business, never could get away from it, lord knows I have tried a time or two. I will definitely keep that in mind though. Sometimes I have these individuals that do want information like that. Not that the MSRP then is going to help them with what the price of the vehicle is now. As for Cadillacs going cheap...you are absolutely right. I carry many Cadillacs and Lincolns on my lot because they are a small investment for me and I am able to sell them, finance them on my own, and make a small profit. I have done very well with them. It is truly amazing how much money is lost once they hit the curb from being new to used.