Ball Joint Replacement on 99 Ford Econoline Van
bigtimemarc
06-08-2005, 10:37 PM
I need help on how to replace my ball joint on a 99 ford econoline 150 van. I will need detailed instructions on what tools needed for the job and all the steps to go through. Much help needed.
yotermanic
06-21-2005, 10:05 PM
Ball joints on an econoline...ya know those paid for my boat!!!!.
1. First, obviously is lift the vehicle...this is important.
2. Now, put the jackstands under the FRAME...you're gonna do a lot of beating and you don't want the vehicle to fall on top of you and leave a big mess in the driveway for your wife to clean up.
3. Now, remove the wheel. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end.
4. Now pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle...now quit pulling. Hit the knuckle where the tie rod end connects with a hammer...hit it harder.
5. Now pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle.
6. Now swing the knuckle towards the front of the vehicle and remove the caliper bracket bolts. You should be able to remove the caliper and bracket as an assembly.
7. PROPERLY HANG the caliper...don't just let it hang because bleeding brakes is not fun.
8. Disconnect the abs speed sensor connector and pull the retainers from the frame.
9. Now remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut, then remove the castle nut.
10. Thread the castle nut on two turns or so to hang the knuckle so when it comes loose it doesn't fall and cut your finger off, again leaving a big mess on the driveway for your wife to clean up while you're getting yout finger put back on.
11. Now, I work on E-250s + so you may have another castle nut, but I'm used to a a fifteen milimeter bolt holding the top ball joint in place. Remove this bolt.
12. Now beat on the the part of the I-Beam where the lower ball joint attatches...Beat harder and harder, now beat harder, sissy. Now the knuckle and rotor assembly should fall down, being held by the bolt you so wisely threaded back on two turns or so back in step 10.
13. Now you need a ball joint press. OTC's are my favorite because they're the indrustry standard and all have the same cups. So call your friend and say "Hey I tore apart my van and this dickhead just not told me I need a tool, can you come get me?"
14. Use the large cup over the stud part of the lower ball joint (AFTER pulling the snap ring!!!) with the appropriate plate and push the ball joint up as far as it will go, it probably won't come out all the way, so you'll have to beat it the rest of the way out.
15. Using the medium cup, press out the upper ball joint.
16. Using the small cup install the upper ball joint. A cup probably won't fit on the bottom side, because the press is like 1/16 of an inch too small, but just put the other forcing plate over the hole and do what you can...it'll be aight.
17. Now, they don't make a cup for the lower ball joint so just put the stud through the hole in the press and put the large cup on the bottom side of the lower ball joint and suck it through, INSTALL SNAP RING!!!
18. Install all the stuff back on in the reverse order it was taken off. Torque specs are: extremely tight.
This job isnt' that bad...if you tear the plastic seal on the lower ball joint installing it...calm down it happens and they are usually okay. My best advice is to soak everything with penetrating lube before you start and be careful as these parts are heavy and have a tendency to pince or crush body parts.
Here's a tool list:
Ball joint press
Snap ring pliers
Hammer (a three pound sledge is what I prefer...seriously)
Socket set
A big (I believe 1 1/8 ot 1 1/4) for lower ball joint nut
Coat hanger for hanging calipers
Impact (optional but nice for using the ball joint press...but hey...what can air do that elbow grease can't?)
Good luck with it but most of all...have fun.
1. First, obviously is lift the vehicle...this is important.
2. Now, put the jackstands under the FRAME...you're gonna do a lot of beating and you don't want the vehicle to fall on top of you and leave a big mess in the driveway for your wife to clean up.
3. Now, remove the wheel. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end.
4. Now pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle...now quit pulling. Hit the knuckle where the tie rod end connects with a hammer...hit it harder.
5. Now pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle.
6. Now swing the knuckle towards the front of the vehicle and remove the caliper bracket bolts. You should be able to remove the caliper and bracket as an assembly.
7. PROPERLY HANG the caliper...don't just let it hang because bleeding brakes is not fun.
8. Disconnect the abs speed sensor connector and pull the retainers from the frame.
9. Now remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut, then remove the castle nut.
10. Thread the castle nut on two turns or so to hang the knuckle so when it comes loose it doesn't fall and cut your finger off, again leaving a big mess on the driveway for your wife to clean up while you're getting yout finger put back on.
11. Now, I work on E-250s + so you may have another castle nut, but I'm used to a a fifteen milimeter bolt holding the top ball joint in place. Remove this bolt.
12. Now beat on the the part of the I-Beam where the lower ball joint attatches...Beat harder and harder, now beat harder, sissy. Now the knuckle and rotor assembly should fall down, being held by the bolt you so wisely threaded back on two turns or so back in step 10.
13. Now you need a ball joint press. OTC's are my favorite because they're the indrustry standard and all have the same cups. So call your friend and say "Hey I tore apart my van and this dickhead just not told me I need a tool, can you come get me?"
14. Use the large cup over the stud part of the lower ball joint (AFTER pulling the snap ring!!!) with the appropriate plate and push the ball joint up as far as it will go, it probably won't come out all the way, so you'll have to beat it the rest of the way out.
15. Using the medium cup, press out the upper ball joint.
16. Using the small cup install the upper ball joint. A cup probably won't fit on the bottom side, because the press is like 1/16 of an inch too small, but just put the other forcing plate over the hole and do what you can...it'll be aight.
17. Now, they don't make a cup for the lower ball joint so just put the stud through the hole in the press and put the large cup on the bottom side of the lower ball joint and suck it through, INSTALL SNAP RING!!!
18. Install all the stuff back on in the reverse order it was taken off. Torque specs are: extremely tight.
This job isnt' that bad...if you tear the plastic seal on the lower ball joint installing it...calm down it happens and they are usually okay. My best advice is to soak everything with penetrating lube before you start and be careful as these parts are heavy and have a tendency to pince or crush body parts.
Here's a tool list:
Ball joint press
Snap ring pliers
Hammer (a three pound sledge is what I prefer...seriously)
Socket set
A big (I believe 1 1/8 ot 1 1/4) for lower ball joint nut
Coat hanger for hanging calipers
Impact (optional but nice for using the ball joint press...but hey...what can air do that elbow grease can't?)
Good luck with it but most of all...have fun.
pthomps1
06-24-2005, 03:45 PM
Get Instructions (been there & done that). You should write technical manuals - you are Great!
popof10
08-08-2005, 03:09 PM
I did the balljoints on my 1993 E-150 a couple months ago, and the directions posted above are right on. Although I must admit being a neophyte I hired a retired mechanic (referred to me by his daughter who works at the local Autozone) to coach me through the process.
One thing I ran into was I could not get the tie rod disconnected no matter how hard I hit it. And I am 6-4 250-plus, and know how to swing a hammer. I finally had to resort to a no-no -- namely using a pickle fork to do the separation. After I bashed the daylights out of that pickle fork the tie rod finally came loose.
Also, I absolutely recommend the impact wrench. Once you are done with this balljoint job you will be glad for every cent you spent on the impact wrench, and you might even kiss the thing.
One thing I ran into was I could not get the tie rod disconnected no matter how hard I hit it. And I am 6-4 250-plus, and know how to swing a hammer. I finally had to resort to a no-no -- namely using a pickle fork to do the separation. After I bashed the daylights out of that pickle fork the tie rod finally came loose.
Also, I absolutely recommend the impact wrench. Once you are done with this balljoint job you will be glad for every cent you spent on the impact wrench, and you might even kiss the thing.
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