The blower resistor block
mgs2006
05-20-2005, 10:38 PM
How much is it to replace a blower resistor block on a 96 breeze? The AC Fan only works on the last speed.
jotey2
12-01-2006, 09:49 PM
about $23 for my 98
KimMG
12-05-2006, 04:35 AM
randy78
11-17-2007, 01:03 PM
This tip is specifically directed towards Stratus owners, however, the procedures may well work for other Mopars. It's getting colder out and now time for the defroster. You get in, start the engine, turn up the heat control, and adjust the fan speed to medium and to your surprise...no air is coming from the defroster vents. Before you call the service department or start tearing apart the dash, the likely culprit is the blower motor resistor, located under the passenger side dash. This resistor allows the fan motor to operate at multi-speeds. When this goes out you'll have two fan settings, No fan or high. To access it, remove the two plastic push pins holding the plastic panel and carefully remove that panel. You will then find two wiring harnesses attached to a connector. This connector is held in by two hex head sheet metal screws. Use an 8mm nut driver or socket to remove these and out comes a plastic connector with a birdcage and wire resistors affixed to it. Likely, the "thermal fuse" has blown due to the heat generated by the wire resistors. Auto manufacturers have located this in the plenum as the moving air helps to dissipate the heat generated by the resistors.
You can now go to your Mopar parts department (I'm told auto parts stores don't sell them), and get a new one for $20.00 or less. There apparently is some debate as to whether Mopar has problems with this design and the number of failures, but I can personally attest that I've replaced 3 factory units within a few months. I'm told the downfall is using the blower on the lower speeds as these resistors generate the most resistance, thus equating to the most heat, thus failure of the thermal fuse.
I have found that by going to Radio Shack and purchasing their thermal fuse # 270-1320, a 144 degree C, $1.49 part, I can replace the faulty one. One must carefully bend the 4 tabs holding the metal birdcage, removing this, carefully bending the wire resistor to access the faulty fuse, clip the leads, and either pull out the crimped remaining leads or with a small drill, drill them out. I elected to drill them out and positioned the new fuse, crimped the leads, and then for extra support / connection, soldered the two leads to the base. As a warning note, thermal fuses, by design, are heat sensitive, so use a heat sink between the fuse and where you solder. To forego this will ruin the fuse. You can use a commercial heat sink or a pair of self closing needlenose pliers.
From what I can tell the "stock" fuse is a Microtemp SRFBWC Y9E01 TF 110C. I believe this is a 110 degree C fuse. Attempt to position the new fuse as close as possible to the old location, reinstall the birdcage, making certain the wire resistors are realigned AND not touching anything!
Reinstall the connector, wiring harnesses, panels, and pins. Turn it on and enjoy the heat.
Note: This procedure has worked well for me, but use at your own risk.
You can now go to your Mopar parts department (I'm told auto parts stores don't sell them), and get a new one for $20.00 or less. There apparently is some debate as to whether Mopar has problems with this design and the number of failures, but I can personally attest that I've replaced 3 factory units within a few months. I'm told the downfall is using the blower on the lower speeds as these resistors generate the most resistance, thus equating to the most heat, thus failure of the thermal fuse.
I have found that by going to Radio Shack and purchasing their thermal fuse # 270-1320, a 144 degree C, $1.49 part, I can replace the faulty one. One must carefully bend the 4 tabs holding the metal birdcage, removing this, carefully bending the wire resistor to access the faulty fuse, clip the leads, and either pull out the crimped remaining leads or with a small drill, drill them out. I elected to drill them out and positioned the new fuse, crimped the leads, and then for extra support / connection, soldered the two leads to the base. As a warning note, thermal fuses, by design, are heat sensitive, so use a heat sink between the fuse and where you solder. To forego this will ruin the fuse. You can use a commercial heat sink or a pair of self closing needlenose pliers.
From what I can tell the "stock" fuse is a Microtemp SRFBWC Y9E01 TF 110C. I believe this is a 110 degree C fuse. Attempt to position the new fuse as close as possible to the old location, reinstall the birdcage, making certain the wire resistors are realigned AND not touching anything!
Reinstall the connector, wiring harnesses, panels, and pins. Turn it on and enjoy the heat.
Note: This procedure has worked well for me, but use at your own risk.
SS109
04-13-2008, 10:36 AM
I just wanted to add that I replaced the resistor block when my 99 Breeze began the same off/high only thing. In fact, I tried 2 new ones thinking the first make have been deffective. The condition still exists. I'm thinking it may be in the control switch now.
This all went down this winter. I kinda gave up on it with plans on taking on the project when it warmed up this spring. If anyone has any ideas it would be helpful. I searched for "blower" & "heater" here and there was only a couple threads, including this one.
I just wanted to get it fixed before AC season which, in Minnesota, is about 3 weeks long and during the month of July.:)
That was a very helpful tip, Randy.
This all went down this winter. I kinda gave up on it with plans on taking on the project when it warmed up this spring. If anyone has any ideas it would be helpful. I searched for "blower" & "heater" here and there was only a couple threads, including this one.
I just wanted to get it fixed before AC season which, in Minnesota, is about 3 weeks long and during the month of July.:)
That was a very helpful tip, Randy.
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