Anybody done it? Any of you XSM folks got a page on that? I'm thinking of doing them myself as the shop wants $380 for the rebuild, and I can get a local brake or parts place to spin the rotors.

so is this a simple project? I have rebuilt the brakes on my Rover a few times, but they are all drum brakes.

Matt

A MAXC buddy and myself replaced my front brake pads about a month ago ...

It's a piece of cake - take out the old, put in the new, we didn't even use C-clamps (didn't have them) so we pushed in the pistons by using vice grips and by hand. We didn't use any 'quieting' spray or fluid or anything and they are still nice and quiet after about 4K miles.

Originally posted by Philosopher
A MAXC buddy and myself replaced my front brake pads about a month ago ...

Did you repack your wheelbearings at the same time?

Matt, If you plan on turning the rotors, you should go ahead and repack the wheel bearings at the same time. I suggest turning the rotors every time you replace your brakepads.

I took my pads off a while back and was going to replace them, but none of the local parts stores had the pads and I did'nt feel like paying dealership prices. I have 48,000 miles on them and have never heard a sqeak, but they must be getting pretty worn by now. Does anyone know if the pads are available in parts stores now? Maybe the Frontier pads are the same as the Xterra?

You got 48,000 miles out of an OEM set, that's amazing. I got 57,000 miles, I would invest in the high quality Original Nissan parts.

I can almost guarantee that the aftermarket ones, unless they are as expensive or more, will not last as long.
Besides, 65.00 is too much to pay to stop a $25,000 truck?

Matt

I agree with Matt. Always Always buy OEM brake pads. That's just something you shouldn't mess with in the aftermarket area.

I replaced mine just before TN. It cost me $60 for the pads and $6 a piece for the rotor seals.

Rotor seals?

I've never replaced anything but the actual pads or shoes other than perhaps the shims when I've done brake jobs before, unless I'm overhauling the calipers in the process. What are the "rotor seals" anyway?

Brent

Originally posted by OffroadX
Rotor seals?

I've never replaced anything but the actual pads or shoes other than perhaps the shims when I've done brake jobs before, unless I'm overhauling the calipers in the process. What are the "rotor seals" anyway?

Brent

On a rear wheel drive vehicle when you pull the rotor you must also pull the bearings. when you reinsert the bearings you also reuse or replace the bearing seals which help keep water and grime out of the bearings. That is why it is a good thing to repack the bearing whenever you turn the rotors in a rear wheel drive vehicle. You don't have to do this on front wheel drive vehicles because the rotors don't house any bearings.

However, the above is based on my experience doing a brake job on my '94 S-10 4x2, not on the 4x4 Xterra.

Ah, I wasn't thinking about having the rotors turned. Usually the rotors are OK and I just need new pads. Been ages since I've had to turn rotors, last was on my '88 Corolla.

Brent

Originally posted by wqbang


Did you repack your wheelbearings at the same time?



Nope, but I'm sure I need to.

BTW - I got 53K miles out of my front brake pads before they started squeaking. I bought the Nissan pads because no else (Napa, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, etc.) had anything that would fit - the aftermarket Frontier pads WILL NOT fit the X.

Originally posted by OffroadX
Ah, I wasn't thinking about having the rotors turned. Usually the rotors are OK and I just need new pads. Been ages since I've had to turn rotors, last was on my '88 Corolla.

I always turn mine. However, I have access to the Air Force base Auto Hobby Shop. I put the vehicle on the lift, pull the rotors, they machine them for me on the lathe while I replace the pads and clean everything up, and put them back on when they are done. $3 per hour for the lift and all tools in the shop, $6 per rotor for turning, and Air Conditioning to boot! Nice. One of the benefits of my wifes Air Force reserve status. :D

That is VERY cool, wq!

Originally posted by Philosopher
That is VERY cool, wq!

I think so.

The Hobby shop on tiny Gunter AFB in Montgomery has 3 hydraulic lifts with 7 total bays. They also have a paint booth. Full assortment of drill presses, grinders, the lathe, balancer, tire mounter, AC refrigerant machine, air tools, torches, welders, engine lifts, hoists, flour jacks, transmission jacks, you name it. It rocks!

My good friend Dan was a mechanic in a prior life. He always helps me out on repairs, I learn, and all he charges is lunch. I am in no way a mechanic, but I am learning slowly but surely.

Originally posted by wqbang


I think so.

The Hobby shop on tiny Gunter AFB in Montgomery has 3 hydraulic lifts with 7 total bays. They also have a paint booth. Full assortment of drill presses, grinders, the lathe, balancer, tire mounter, AC refrigerant machine, air tools, torches, welders, engine lifts, hoists, flour jacks, transmission jacks, you name it. It rocks!

WOW, DROOL ... except, what's a 'flour' jack? :)

My good friend Dan was a mechanic in a prior life. He always helps me out on repairs, I learn, and all he charges is lunch. I am in no way a mechanic, but I am learning slowly but surely.

That's the best way to learn. Take advantage of this as long as you can!

I just bought a pair of new front pads from local store. I haven't done any brake job before. How hard is it to replace front pads? Are there any tips or stuff to watch out while I'm doing it? I'm a little be worried since I don't have service manual with me and no such infor or anything.

Here's a thorough how-to (http://ultra.litpixel.com:90/modules.php?op=modload&name=Subjects&file=index&req=viewpage&pageid=27)

Brent

It takes you about 15 minutes per wheel to do it! I helped a friend do it this weekend! I did one side and he watched, then did the other side! All you have to do is jack up the truck. put it on jack stands. Take off the wheel. Break loose the 14mm upper bolt and remove the lower 14mm bolt. Rotate the brake caliper up. Old shoes come out. Put new shoes in. Open brake fluid cap. Star slowly squeezing the calipers till they slide over the new brake shoes as they will take up more room then the old ones. You'll probably have to siphon off some brake fluid in the process. Tighten up the two bolts you looosened. tire back on, truck off the jackstands, torque your lug nuts and you are done!

Well, that's the quick-and-dirty way, but pushing old fluid with contaminants out of the wheel cylinders back up into the ABS system can lead to problems. I did it the first time, and many others have too, with no problem, but the second time I did it right. You can pass on greasing the slider pins and all too, just swap the pads and call it quits, but the how-to I posted (and wrote) is the full monte.

Brent

Finally, I replace my brake pads. Thanks OffroadX and rrdstarr for help of instruction. No problem so far, just feel like it lost little bit of pressure(I have to step on brake hader to stop) but I'll do some bleeding to resolve that problem later.

Thanks. :)

Hello, this is my first time one this site. I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra with 170,000kms (100,000 miles) It has been one of the best trucks that I have owned. lately it seems that things are starting to go wron, I just spent lots of $$$ for both exhust manifolds, tune-ups etc. Now the front brakes are squeeking like crazy. I took off one of the front tires and noticed that the brake pads are very thin. I want to change them myself, the dealer wants too much $$$. The rotors feel good, no vibration on pedal.

1) Why are they squeeking when the truck is in motion, but when i press on the brake pedal the noise goes away?

2) Do I need to buy anything else, other then the pads?

Thanks

There is a complete how-to linked in my post on page 1 of this thread. It lists all the tools and supplies you will need to do the job. New pads are the absolute minimum you will need to buy, but the anti-squeal goo is highly recommended. The rest of the items are needed if you're going to the the complete, thorough, and proper job instead of simply replacing the pads.`
The squeaking is normal, when the pads are just reaching the point where the squeal tab can contact the rotor, it will squeal faintly when the brakes are not applied. Applying the brakes dampens the vibration and quiets it. As the pads wear a little more, it will become the opposite, they will not squeal when the brakes are not applied, but will squeal (louder) when they are.

Brent

Hey.
I would suggest you spend $1 and try QuikMechanic at:
http://www.ineed1.com/quikmechanic.html

I used them before and they helped alot. I did waste my money and go to a mechanic without being prepared and without spending to much money like $68 per hour, and still don't fix it. It's just $1 anyway, so you can't go wrong.

Chutch

Does anyone have a picture of how the front brake pads should look once installed? Mine are still making noise...

Many brake/service shops offer a free inspection, take yours to a place to get checked out.

Here's a thorough how-to (http://ultra.litpixel.com:90/modules.php?op=modload&name=Subjects&file=index&req=viewpage&pageid=27)

Brent


Hi Brent,
I can't seem to get that page with the "how to" do you still have that?

I'm also interested in changing the back shoes too.

<edit> I just found your cliff notes for the rear shoes (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/xterra/tech/RearBrakeJob.txt), Thanks!!!</edit>

Thanks in advance,
Terry