Motor work
turbo charge
the reason why i ask cause i want to know if is worth to put a turbo charge on a h22 and spend all that much motor for nothing f u are not going to be able to get that much hp so u guys think is better to just do some engine work like head work and some other stuff so that way u be safe ?
I think i would be happy with only 250 hp at the wheels on my 1995 civic . can i get that much with motor work ?
i think is waste of money sleeveing the block . because if im going to spend all that money to men it seems like im going to drag racing. i just wanna act stupid somethimes and another thing this car would be a daily drive 2 :D
what about a shot of nos too ?

Someone like you could never build a 250 WHP all motor honda, so throw that out the window right now. You probably couldn't build/maintain a 250 WHP turbo honda either, so you might as well go stock H22 + bolt ons, because that's more than enough for you to act stupid in.

Someone like you could never build a 250 WHP all motor honda, so throw that out the window right now. You probably couldn't build/maintain a 250 WHP turbo honda either, so you might as well go stock H22 + bolt ons, because that's more than enough for you to act stupid in.
so tell me something how muhc hp can i get of an h22 motor with motor work for example
head work (port polishe shave)
cams stage 2
1mm valves
springs
retainers
headers
aluminum flywheel
stage 2 clutch
crowe rod bearings
stock type s pistons

I going to go ahead and say none.

1mm valves? Pretty damn small valves there champ, and a "stage 2 clutch", and crowe? rod bearings? I don't see anything there to tune with either.

Not trying to be insulting, but with the little to no knowledge you have about a fast honda you can't make a built car work. You need to know "Hey, these plugs are fouling on me, so I'm going to take out a bit of fuel, probably gap the plugs back to .038, and maybe try one heat range hotter plugs, and if that doesn't work i'll dial back some timing, then maybe check the distributor, and ignitor for any problems." If that just flew way over your head, which it did, and since you're barely out of high school you don't have the bank account to tow your car to a shop and throw money at them for every little problem you have. A stock 200 horse H22 is more than enough to break the tires loose in first and second and do stupid crap on the streets. Be happy if you can acomplish an H22 swap, and move on from there. You don't just go from a stock D-series to a built H, because you won't know what to do and your car will be sitting on jackstands or in the shop 99% of the time.

I've seen people at h22a.org (no longer existing) net up to 230whp on an all motor h22. Its going to cost you a bit of money though. The biggest component to the buildup was the SMSP header. When paired to a 2.5 cat(less)back, it put down an additional 22whp (proven at Honda-Tech.com). The header isn't made by a company, but rather an individual. If you're interested in purchasing the header, I have the guy's contacting information. The header costs around $1000. In addition to that, they were using a blacktrax intake manifold, jun cams, 11.5:1 pistons and the works (port/polish etc..). I may be able to find the whole buildup list for you, I think I have it saved around here somewhere.

That being said, forced induction is by far the easier route. And likely the cheaper in the long run.

The N/A route still has its benefits though.

Good luck with your decision, keep us posted.

I've seen people at h22a.org (no longer existing) net up to 230whp on an all motor h22. Its going to cost you a bit of money though. The biggest component to the buildup was the SMSP header. When paired to a 2.5 cat(less)back, it put down an additional 22whp (proven at Honda-Tech.com). The header isn't made by a company, but rather an individual. If you're interested in purchasing the header, I have the guy's contacting information. The header costs around $1000. In addition to that, they were using a blacktrax intake manifold, jun cams, 11.5:1 pistons and the works (port/polish etc..). I may be able to find the whole buildup list for you, I think I have it saved around here somewhere.

That being said, forced induction is by far the easier route. And likely the cheaper in the long run.

The N/A route still has its benefits though.

Good luck with your decision, keep us posted.
is there any aftermark cams that u can get without chaing u valve train ?

It really depends on how aggressive the profile is. Skunk2 "Stage 1" cams do not require a valvetrain upgrade because they are fairly mild cams. While the Skunk "Stage 2" cams are fairly high lift, so require a valvetrain upgrade. Most manufacturers will tell you whether or not their cams need an upgrade or not.

In any case, I'd recommend a valvetrain upgrade anyway, for good measure.

You just want to act stupid?

In that case I agree with turboEKhatch. If you want serious reliable power then you're going to have to spend a lot of money to get it. You can get 250 WHP pretty easy and cheap if you want to. However, your engine won't last very long.

I don't want to help you if you're just wanting to act like an ass on the street and you're not willing to modify the car the right way.

You just want to act stupid?

In that case I agree with turboEKhatch. If you want serious reliable power then you're going to have to spend a lot of money to get it. You can get 250 WHP pretty easy and cheap if you want to. However, your engine won't last very long.

I don't want to help you if you're just wanting to act like an ass on the street and you're not willing to modify the car the right way.

im just going to get a aluminum flywheel and stage 1 clutch and keep everything else stock

It really depends on how aggressive the profile is. Skunk2 "Stage 1" cams do not require a valvetrain upgrade because they are fairly mild cams. While the Skunk "Stage 2" cams are fairly high lift, so require a valvetrain upgrade. Most manufacturers will tell you whether or not their cams need an upgrade or not.

Say I were to get those stage 1's in my B16A with the following mods on it, AEM Cold Air, Greddy SS Header, HKS Highpower Exhaust, (2.2 in piping) So I wouldnt need to upgrade anything else in the valvetrain if I get those cams? Nothing like valves, srpings and what not? Because I was always thinking of doing that, but with that Iw ould have gotten cam gears of course, and probally a better intake manifold, but I heard quite alot arent really carb approved?

Say I were to get those stage 1's in my B16A with the following mods on it, AEM Cold Air, Greddy SS Header, HKS Highpower Exhaust, (2.2 in piping) So I wouldnt need to upgrade anything else in the valvetrain if I get those cams? Nothing like valves, srpings and what not? Because I was always thinking of doing that, but with that Iw ould have gotten cam gears of course, and probally a better intake manifold, but I heard quite alot arent really carb approved?
i dot think so, just like the guy say if u get stage 1 skunk camshaft u dont have to upgrade u valve train

On a B16, with Skunk2 Stage 1 cams, a valvetrain upgrade is recommended, but not required. The Stage 1 is also CARB exempt.

While the Stage 2, a valvetrain upgrade is required (particularly the valve springs), and is not CARB exempt.

Don't just assume that all "stage 1's" don't require a valvetrain upgrade. Stages are just a naming convention used by the companies, it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. "Stage 1" for one company, might have the equivalent spec of a "Stage 2" for another company.

Always refer to the manufacturer as to whether or not a valvetrain upgrade is required.

On a B16, with Skunk2 Stage 1 cams, a valvetrain upgrade is recommended, but not required. The Stage 1 is also CARB exempt.

While the Stage 2, a valvetrain upgrade is required (particularly the valve springs), and is not CARB exempt.

Don't just assume that all "stage 1's" don't require a valvetrain upgrade. Stages are just a naming convention used by the companies, it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. "Stage 1" for one company, might have the equivalent spec of a "Stage 2" for another company.

Always refer to the manufacturer as to whether or not a valvetrain upgrade is required.

so what u are saying is that when u upgrade cams to stage 1 or 2 the only thing u have to change is the valves spring and that is it ? or u have to change the valves and retainer ?

You still need retainers and valves. I'm just saying that the springs are the most important component of all that is required.

Just ask the company what you need.

You still need retainers and valves. I'm just saying that the springs are the most important component of all that is required.

Just ask the company what you need.

thxs bro

The hell with anything all motor. Turbo is always cooler and faster... Always.