2000 Int wont start, running out of options...

My 2000 intrepid deceided while I was backing out of my driveway to just stop. It trys to turn over but can't and was running when this happened. We have checked the fuel pump, regulator, lines/rail, and although we do not smell gas, we have no reason not to. We replaced the spark plugs, and found that the first two were oil soaked, and drained about 1.3 qts out in hopes that perhaps the cylinder had too much oil in it from a recent oil change, and that by helping it to drain down that it would start itself. One week later it is still not helping. Our next step is to check the timing chain to see if it missed or jumped, but after that we don't know where to head. I have read that there is a "sludge" factor in many of these 2.7 engines, but ours is clean
(always used synth.). It is trying to start, my parents mentioned that it sounded like their old 77 dodge van, and they would just pump on the gas and it would start, but we have a fuel injector so that couldn't be a solution. Does anyone have any suggestions?

go to your local auto part store and buy yourself a spark tester, disconnect any ignition coil and put the tester in a coil and put the tester to a good engine ground and try to start it up. You should have a bright, blue spark. Try that and go from there. Make sure you didn't have any electrical connectors to come off, like your cam sensor or crank sensor. Also, since you said you have oil in one of the cylinders, do a compression test, see if all is good. You should have around 125 psi in all cylinders.

I have check the spark in each inginition coil, which is how we found there to be oil in there, all of our other test indicate that there is pressure in the cylinder, but we will measure it on Saturday...anything else from there...otherwise I suppose we will start pulling down the engine to get to the timing chain.. :(

if you have pressure, there's no need to pull down the engine to get to the timing chain unless one of two things, (1) you have over 100,000 miles, (2) you have a bad water pump. When you checked the fuel pump, how did you check it?

Well... we have 86,000 on the car... not too far away from 100.

When we checked the fule pressure, we used a fuel pressure kit, believe me it took a while to find the peices as Dodge said they didn't sell one, but we found one the Actron sells. It was a little on the High side so:

Possible causes of high fuel pressure readings are the following:

Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
Restrictions in return line.
Faulty fuel line couplings at fuel tank.

Once we checked the Pressure, saw it was a little high, we checked the regulator which had plenty of power going to it and was functioning. I think the only thing we didn't do was the Faulty fuel line couplings at fuel tank...I am not sure I remember. There might also be an issue I guess that it is the computer system itself that needs to be replaced...which we are hoping it isn't as we do not have the means to take it into Dodge and get a new one put in. So? Am I missing something else?

General Fuel Pressure Diagnostics
Checking fuel pressure is an essential part of fuel injection system troubleshooting. High fuel pressure will make an engine run rich, while low fuel pressure will make an engine run lean or not at all. Fuel pressure readings that are higher than manufacturers specifications are generally caused by a problem in the return line fuel components. Conversely, fuel pressure readings that are lower than manufacturers specifications are generally caused by a problem in the pressure line fuel components. If fuel pressure readings are not within manufacturer's specifications, then refer to a vehicle service manual for step-by-step diagnostic procedures that will pinpoint the faulty component for your specific vehicle.

I have a 2000 intrepid and it did the same thing we thought it was the timing chain to so we ript it apart and found that there was nothing wrong with the timing chain so we tryed both crank and cam sensors and it's all better you mite try that first

OK!!!

Some progress has been made, thanx for the idea on the Camshaft Sensor. IT got us thinking

We unplugged the sensor and sure enought it started...so the next logically thing to do was replace that sensor, finally found the part (our 2000 had a 2002 part installed... wonder if that means our engine was replaced before we purchase it?), connected the sensor with fingers crossed, and it DID NOT START :( And that is because When you unplug the camshaft position sensor it starts because the computer goes to default or limp mode which allows the car to start. Most likely the magnetic pick-up on the camshaft is loose or has dislodged causing a no start problem... at least it is someplace to go right... I really hope that it is just the magnetic pick up is loose not gone and can be put back in...but I am not sure...before I start on this new project I am trying to find out more about the Magnetic pick up and camshaft...has anyone fixed this themselves?

So we deceided to take the car in to have the camshaft taken apart to check on the magnetic pick up...less than half way there the car stalled, and it took a while to get it going again, when it did I only got across the 8 lane street, pulled into a gas station the whole front end was smoking...white not gray... from under the hood. After calling to have someone come get us (I Had my 2 yearold with me) we then limped it home, the engine cut off at least 2 more times. This was all within a three mile radius of our home and the closest shop was another 10 minutes away, and they said to either call a tow to get it there or home. Would an unplugged camshaft sensor cause the car to over heat? Is ther something else now that is causing a problem. We were so happy at the idea of having the car up an running soon.

So we deceided to take the car in to have the camshaft taken apart to check on the magnetic pick up...less than half way there the car stalled, and it took a while to get it going again, when it did I only got across the 8 lane street, pulled into a gas station the whole front end was smoking...white not gray... from under the hood. After calling to have someone come get us (I Had my 2 yearold with me) we then limped it home, the engine cut off at least 2 more times. This was all within a three mile radius of our home and the closest shop was another 10 minutes away, and they said to either call a tow to get it there or home. Would an unplugged camshaft sensor cause the car to over heat? Is ther something else now that is causing a problem. We were so happy at the idea of having the car up an running soon.

Did you ever get your car fixed? what was the problem if you remember?

Trouble codes for all Intrepids 1993-2004
GA_googleFillSlot("Forums_ROS_300x250_noad"); Hello everyone,

I've created this thread to help out those who have a Dodge Intrepid or any Daimler-Chrysler vehicle that was built from 1996-present. If you have a check engine light and need to know what the code is, visit this website to give you the answer(s) to your code issues. The website is:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm (http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm).

If you have a 1993-1995 Intrepid and you have a check engine light, you can find out what the codes are by following this process:
1. Turn the ignition key on/off 3xs ending in the ON position
2. Watch the "CHECK ENGINE" light and see if it flashes.
3. If it flashes twice then pauses and flashes again another 4xs, that's a code 24, for example. You have put the computer in diagnostic mode and it will now display any codes that have been stored in memory. Here is a list of all codes that can be displayed and what they mean:

12- Problem with stand-by memory circuit. Direct battery input to controller disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-ons.
13- Indicates a problem with the MAP sensor pneumatic system.
14- MAP sensor voltage too low or too high.
15- A problem with the vehicle speed sensor signal. No speed sensor signal detected during driving conditions.
16- Loss of battery voltage
17- Engine coolant temperature indicating engine temperature cold too long.
21- Oxygen sensor voltage not fluctuating.
22- Coolant sensor voltage too high or too low.
23- Throttle body temp sensor below acceptable parameters.
24- Throttle position sensor voltage too high or too low.
25- Automatic Idle Speed motor detects a shorted condition in one or more circuits
26- Peak Injector current has not been reached.
27- One of the injector control circuit output drivers does not respond properly to the control signal.
31- Problem with the canister purge solenoid circuit
32- An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR transducer circuit.
33- Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted.
34- Open or shorted condition found in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuit.
35- Radiator fan relay circuit open or shorted.
36- Problem with the air switching solenoid circuit.
37- Open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter unlock solenoid circuit.
41- Problem with charging system. Voltage below 11.75.
42- ASD (Automatic ShutDown) relay control open or shorted.
43- Engine misfire in one or more cylinders.
44- Ambient/Battery Temperature too high or too low.
45- Transmission temp sensor not indicating warm condition.
46- Charging system voltage too high.
47- Charging system voltage too low.
51- Oxygen sensor signal indicates a lean condition.
52- Oxygen sensor signal indicates a rich condition.
53- Internal PCM failure.
54- No cam signal to PCM.
55- End of code message.
62- Unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage in the controller EEPROM.
63- PCM failure. EEPROM write denied.

These are all the codes for most 1993-1995 and a few 96 and 97 Intrepids. If you need any others if I missed them, please let me know.

have you checked for spark? does it want to start? let me no and i can prob help