I searched and read some great stuff, but I need some further explaination.

A couple of quick questions...

I am going to flush my radiator tomorrow and I was wondering how everyone does it. Do you drain the engine block or just the radiator. My Haynes manual says to pull both plugs on the engine block as well. I was not going to do this, but I want to do a complete job. When I asked my mechanic how he would do it, he said they just do the radiator.


Also, He said not to worry about distilled water. Would it be a problem to use regular water. I am under the impression that mechanics use tap water now. He also said getting a 50/50 mix is not real important. He said for his vehicle he puts in 75/25 coolant/water. I am going to do the recommended 50/50, but am not real worried about the exactness of it.

When the coolant is all removed and I fill it up with water to flush the system I re-install the drain plugs and let it circulate, correct? For how long? Then drain the water, Repeat untill clean?


When I fill it back up after flushing how do I ensure I get all the air out. Do I leave the cap off for a bit to get the air out of the system? How long about?


Tranfer Case Question...

I am doing the transfer case as well. It says to use plain motor oil. Is this as simple as it sounds. I just buy regular old 5W 30 motor oil, same that goes in the crank case. I bought Mobil 5W 30 drive clean 5000. Is this correct?


Diff front/rear questions...

I know how to do this, but I haven't looked at them so I am assuming there is a drain plug on each diff. From the looks of my Haynes manual there does not seem to be drain plugs. Please tell me there is, because I am not sure I want to pull the covers off. I will if I have to though, because I am not a fan of the suction pump through the check/fill plug as a way to remove the fluid.

Thank you for all the help,
Marc

Flushing:

I drain from the rad, then pour in a bottle of rad flush, fill with water (hose, I know, yikes!), I let it run for 15-20 minutes. I think the back of the bottle states 10 minutes at operating temp. Drain, refill with water, run 10 mins. Drain refill with water, run 10 mins. Drain and then add coolant (I use the Pre-mixed Prestone; from walmart; I also put in a couple of cups of straight 100 coolant too). I also, pull the coolant tank and clean it out too (soap and water, and rinse it out like 6 times).

After I have it filled up, I fill the tank to the HOT mark and drive it a couple of days. THen I check the tank and rad (when cold, duh!) and add if neccesarry. After a week, I warm it up for about 5 mins and then pull the cap and use my tester to see if the mix is good.


rear questions

There was a recent post here that there was a drain plug. I went out with my trusty flash light after I read that post and looked for a drain plug. Nope, nada, zippo. If you check the FAQ's that is a write up on how to do this. It is an easy 1 hour job as long as you use a Fel-Pro paper gasket.

Good info Ryan, thanks


For the diffs, can I get the gaskets at a parts store or is it a dealer only thing? Do I use RTV on it? Both sides or just the cover? Are there torque specs for putting the covers back on, or, is it just to tighten them up?

I am I correct about the tranfer case oil?


The radiator flush, are you saying not to bother pulling the plugs for the engine block? I would think this would ensure a true flush, and allow all the fluid to be removed.


Marc

marcre, you might like to look at the way I did it. I followed a lot of Ryan's advice, about the only difference is I don't use a hose.

It's written up in length in this thread, look at about post 10:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=317539

I heard the block plug was a PITA, and not necessary. The way I did it was very clean. I researched the subject a lot as well here and elsewhere. Used distilled water, I had to as the water is very hard here, another reason I didn't use the hose.

Clean and easy for me on the 98+ gen, not sure which you have, forgot to look before clicking "reply".

HTH

SOLTER

Solster,

I read your write-up and it is solid, I will do it the same way as well. I guess I will skip the block plugs if they give me trouble.

Good info...

Thanks,
Marc

Solster,

I read your write-up and it is solid, I will do it the same way as well. I guess I will skip the block plugs if they give me trouble.

Good info...

Thanks,
Marc

Glad I can hep here and there, still trying to figure out how to check tire pressure if you know what I mean.... ;-)

SOLSTER

marcre, about your question with the Diffy's Mine had drain plugs. I was able to drain and fill no problem, just make sure it is good and warm(it will flow better). No Gaskets no pumps, nothing(well you will need a pump to get the new lube in the front diffy, but the back I just cut the top off the bottle and squeezed it right in. It took longer for the old stuff to drain then it did to do th whole job, because it is thick stuff.

Also with the transfer case, you are correct it is just straigt 5W-30 motor oil. I would recommend using high quality stuff, since this seems to get neglected the most of all, and you need much so price isn't really a factor.

Hope this helps. Look closely for that drain plug though I am pretty sure they are there, mine were.

iskiuskiweski, Thanks for the reply, Good info. Thank you to Ryan and Solster as well. I am armed with what I need to know. I am going to give it a shot. Doesn't seem too hard.

Marc

Let us know how it goes!

SOLSTER

Let us know how it goes!

SOLSTER

It is going well. I started today after work. It took a while to get the skid plate of. Lots of penetrating oil on the rusty bolts. For the last bolt I had both of my legs on the cross member and was pulling with all my strength. Finally got it off.

I drained the radiator and stuck the hose in the radiator top and let it run clean. I then used a bottle of distilled water, but I did not buy nearly enough distilled water, so I will get more tomorrow after work. I was about to just fill it back up, but decided against it. I am going to get many gallons of distilled water and run it through there several times to make sure I get a thorough flush through the whole system, not just the radiator. I never did locate the engine block plugs, but I didn't look too hard.

It started to get real cold as the sun went down so I stopped and will hopefully finish tomorrow. It was not nearly as much fun as I had hoped. I probably should have waited for warmer weather.


The radiator fluid did look clean and new, unfortunately being the second owner I am not sure when it was done(if ever). I am thinking it was done at 60k though(@73k now bought @63ish). Better to be safe than sorry.

I also got around to changing my PCV valve. Easiest thing I ever did, should have done it sooner, hopefully I did it correctly though. The PCV looked fair, dirty, but still had a slight rattle. I figured it is so cheap, I might as well change it. I looked at the front diff and did not see a drain plug, so I will have to decide how I want to attack that. I did not look at the rear, as only my front end was in the air. I still hold out hope there is a drain plug there.

On the week-end I will hopefully at least do the transfer case. That looks easy enough(knock-on-wood). I think I may need a pump to put that in though. If the diffs do not have drain plugs I will wait untill it is warmer out.

I never have done any of this before by myself, but I want to do it to at least say I can. It is kind of fun to crawl under the car and see what is there. So many things that I have no clue as to what they do. I may take pictures and ask what these pieces are.


Marc

marcre, I like you am a newbie to much of this. When you do the transfer case and differential, maybe you could do a write-up and pics for the other mechanically challenged individuas here, maybe like I did th eradiator one. I've never done differential and transfer case work, so you are giving me the confidence I coud do it (that is unless you come here sobbing after your effort, har har).

Lots of luck, and keep this thread going with updates, there are many like us in the same boat (machanically speaking).

P.S. the Rodeo comes out of storage early, need to move soon, and doing the old storage thing. It'll be nice to bounce over speed bumps instead of stopping to roooooooolll over them in the MSM ;-)

SOLSTER

I just got done with flush number 2 and it is coming out light lime green. I will do another at least. I asume there will be a lot of distilled water in the block, so I am going to just add straight anti-freeze to the radiator. I will test it in a couple of days and if the mix is unacceptable I will adjust to meet the correct specs.

Unfortunately, I am unable to remove my resevoir tank. It has two bolts holding it on and I do not have a tool to reach the one bolt. The other is inaccesable it seems, unless I remove the battery. I can not for the life of me get the negative battery cable to come off. The bolts are all corroded on. In the nicer weather months I will replace the battery and I may for the fun of it do it then. I am not sure if I will be able to loosen the battery though.

This being the first time doing this, I get nervous with things. I do not like my truck running with mostly water in the cooling system. So I only let it run for about 14 minutes on the first flush and the others I let it run for less than ten. However the engine is already some what warm to begin with.


It is no fun being a newbie. Funny thing is, no matter how many great write-ups I read, or all the excellent advice I get, I am still worried about mistakes. If something goes wrong, I am with out a car, as my wallet is very light. So I am going to keep an eye on the temp gauge.

That leads me to a question: My temp guage always gets to the halfway mark. Is it safe to assume that if I do not have a correct mix or I have air trapped inside somewhere that my temp gauge will warn me. IE.. if it is higher up than normal I need to do something.

Can't answer what the temp guage would do if you had large air pockets, sorry.

But, if you run the truck for 10+ minutes, the thermostat should be open (assuming it's working), and fluid will circulate. When the fluid circulates, the air pockets will escape in the form of bubbles. When I did mine, I checked it once a day for a week to allow air to escape by warming it for ten minutes or so with the rad cap off, and topping of the fluid. I've had no problem with the radiator since.

When you believe the whole system is almost 100% Dist Water, fill radiator with 100% Rad Fluid, it will balance out to 50-50 mix, it did for me! I tested it of course.

Don't be to worried about running on water only (with the warning of your local weather might be extreme). Rad Fluid is mostly to keep corrosion down, keep from freezing over under freezing conditions, and boiling over in extreme heat (Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong). many people run things like 70-30 mix for different temp conditions. If the weather is not extreme, 100% water is fine for running the truck for a length of time (say hours), but don't leave it permanatly that way.

As for the Resevoir, if you can't get it off to clean, see if you can drain it and fill with fresh 50-50 mix, if not, that small amount will have a minimal impact on the 2 gallons of 50-50 mix in the radiator system.

As for the battery, if you have that much corrosion, I'd be very worried about the contacts being reliable, it may be time to service the battery. I had a bad negative cable, wouldn't tighten, had Sears replace the cable end, $10 (part and labor) for piece of mind. The battery is crucial to getting home at the end of the day, so I'd suggest getting to that quick.

Let's see if anyone answers the "air pocket - temp guage question"

SOLSTER

I finished up on Friday and it was actually an easy DIY job. I will go get a test kit after work tomorrow to check my mix, but from a visual point it looks good. I just hope it is mixing up in there.

I let it run for a few minutes each day withg the cap off, but it starts to come out. Hopefully there is no air trapped and preventing it from flowing. That is my big fear.

Looking back, I think I should have changed out the hoses. They look to be in good shape, but they are 6 years old.

We had some warmer weather here in Buffalo NY so I washed and detailed my car inside and out, even cleaned up the engine bay. That was filthy. I need to do some more. I am tempted to spray it down, but that is probobly a bad idea. When I had my IMG replaced they left grease all over the covers.


PCV Question:
I replaced this valve. Is that all there is to it. Should I run some cleaner through the hose it attaches to, or is this not an area to do that?

Thanks,
Marc

marcre, I was hoping someone would answer your pvc question, but not yet! let's see if anyone answers.

I simply replaced mine. I kinda remember from my maitenance thread someone said be sure the line from the pvc to the intake was in good shape as well as the grommet, then to be sure there was pressure on the line with the engine running. I don't remember spraying cleaner in the line, but recall some do it, but probably OK not to as long as there is pressure in the line.

Can anyone elaborate on the issue?

thanks

SOLSTER

Solster is correct, make sure the line is clear, and the grommet is in good shape. If you want to you can run some cleaner though it but make sure it is safe for your sensors.

I also read some where on here that someone used this vacuum line to run sea foam into the intake. Just stuck the pvc end of the tube down in the bottle. Run up the idle and let'er suck.

Solster is correct, make sure the line is clear, and the grommet is in good shape. If you want to you can run some cleaner though it but make sure it is safe for your sensors.

I also read some where on here that someone used this vacuum line to run sea foam into the intake. Just stuck the pvc end of the tube down in the bottle. Run up the idle and let'er suck.

I read the same thing abou seafoam through that line, I never did it though. Some o2 sensor carb cleaner will likely do.

anyone else want to comment, I'd like to know for next time.

SOLSTER

Let me make sure I have this correct> All I do is take the PCV out and then disconnect it from the hose, then, with the engine running I spray cleaner into the PCV connection hose? How much cleaner would do the job?

Also, a Seafoam query.

I know it has been talked about millions of times, and I have searched here and on the Wire and have read many comments about it. I know how to use it in the crankcase and all, but with 73,000 miles on my truck, I get the feeling maybe I should not use it. However, I do burn some oil and I want to see if it works. It may loosen some things up and expose a leek, but if I am correct in my thought process, this would be a problem anyway down the road.

So worst case senerio is I need to take the rodeo into the shop for some new gaskets. Best case, I burn less oil. Is this a fair assumption, meaning is this all I need to worry about.

I mean if a gasket is weak and is failing, and the only thing keeping it in working order is sludge, then I think I would be happier with a clean, oil-burning free engine, than the alternative.

(I burn 1-1.5qt/3000)

Should I seafoam my engine?

Thanks,
Marc