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1994 Pontiac Transport *( ABS/ TCS lights are ON )*


Pontiac Transport
03-17-2005, 09:06 AM
Hello.

I just purchased my van, and the ABS/TCS lights came on the first week I had it. I have a switch inside the van for the traction control. I noticed if you try to turn it on, the light on the switch doesn't light up. It's almost like it's not working. The TCS light means the traction control is off. Well if I used the switch to turn it on, shouldn't the TCS light go out? I checked to see if it had a fuse, but I had no luck finding it. Any information on these two lights would be awesome. Everything else is running fine in the van.

Autozone will NOT test/pull these codes. Only 1996 and up they test.


Kevin

LMP
03-17-2005, 03:38 PM
OK '94 is OBD1 and normally if plug is similar to this one www.avigex.ca/xport/plug you can pull the engine codes yourself by using a paperclip to jump contacts A and B.
www.avigex.ca/xport/readingdiagnostics.jpg

You have most probably a sensor problem - probably bearing/hub assembly up front - . THis is an easily replaceable item by the do it yourself. Need some tricks, just ask. However, if you have no whining from one front wheel, most evident when turning in one direction (increases on one side, decreases to nil on the other side) then the wear might not be enough to need replacment, but the sensor is awry.
THis condition prohibits traction control, since it needs to use sensors to do its job, hence the TCS panic light says on: in that condition, this is normal. THis explains also why the ABS light stays on.
ALl of this is no real big problem...and you can live with it for a long time until the front bearing exacerbates itself and requires to be replaced.
If you want all to be perfect, then you will have to find which bearing is damaged. FOr reasons not clear to me, the left bearing seems to be more sensitive to wear than the right one...but it can prove me wrong.
On the other hand, the GM dealer scanner (GM scan tool) normally reveals which wheel sensor is awry. THis code is not available from the paperclip trick.


WHeel sensor error codes (DTC)
A021: left front speed =0
A022: r front speed =0
A023: left rear speed =0
A024: r r speed =0
A025: left front excessive speed variation
A026: r front excessive speed variation
A027: left rear excessive speed variation
A028: r r excessive speed variation
A032: left front sensor shorted
A033: r front sensor shorted
A034: left rear sensor shorted
A035: r r sensor shorted

WIth ANY of these codes ABS and TCS are DISABLED

richtazz
03-19-2005, 01:54 PM
I agree with LMP, you have a hub bearing going bad, a common problem on these vans.

Pontiac Transport
03-22-2005, 09:27 AM
Ok thanks everyone :) Easy job to do yourself? price range of this job if I do it?

LMP
03-22-2005, 03:31 PM
Hub assembly (including sensor) runs at 149 - 169 C$ (aftermarket). YOu need a #55 Torx for the hub bolts, large size allen wrench (not sure what size) and a 1 5/16" socket for the shaft nut. Of course, you need to remove caliper (allen wrench) and disk first but that 's all. Then use some convincing manners to dislodge the shaft from the hub..this might be the most difficult, but start pushing the shaft towards the transmission with hub still in place. Unbolt the nut flush with the shaft end then use a blunt HEAVY hammer WITH SOME CUSHION between hammer and shaft end (1/4 plywood, fiber or the like) so you do not distort the threads. IN fact, once it starts its way in, I use the 1 5/16" socket on the nut to keep pushing on it. Of course a shaft extractor is the best but it will go anyway. Once it is dislodged from original position and in like an inch, then you will have to remove the hub to get it out from the shaft completely. Take care not to extend the shaft to prevent any problem with the CV joints and bellows.

WHILE YOU ARE THERE, take a close look at the ball joints: if you have the original with the rivets, I would not bet a lot on life that is left on them and while the hub is out, it is an ideal way to change them (they can be changed with the hub in place butmuch easier if not).
But...you will have to identify the faulty bearing first..after all, and although it is MOST PROBABLY a front bearing, a rear sensor could be the improbable cause of your problem....although I have not experienced that .

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