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Is This Normal???


sassee
03-12-2005, 01:06 PM
I HAVE DISCONNECTED THE NEGATIVE CABLE FROM MY BATTERY!!! If I place the Negative probe from my digital multimeter to the negative terminal of the battery and then place the POSITIVE probe either to the end of the NEGATIVE cable OR to any ground, I GET BATTERY VOLTAGE (12.8 volts) IS that right??? Doesn't that indicate a short circiut???

1996tealblue
03-12-2005, 03:04 PM
No.Your meter is the new ground.The clock memory circuit is still live along with the hood light and power door locks ect... If you pull accesory fuses only then should go to 0 volts . And will also should reset the computer.Pat

sassee
03-12-2005, 09:23 PM
now you say accessory fuses.....
I assume you mean the fuses inside the car, not the PDC under the hood. Well funny thing, ' pulled every fuse and relay in accesory box.....still have voltage.

1996tealblue
03-13-2005, 04:46 AM
now you say accessory fuses.....
I assume you mean the fuses inside the car, not the PDC under the hood. Well funny thing, ' pulled every fuse and relay in accesory box.....still have voltage.Did you pull the ones on the drivers side of the dash with the door open? Pat

sassee
03-13-2005, 11:42 AM
every one of them PLUS all of the relays

sassee
03-13-2005, 11:44 AM
The panel on the drivers side dash is the only one on the inside that I'm aware of. BTY...it's a 96 Intrepid ES w/3.5

1996tealblue
03-13-2005, 09:36 PM
The 12 volt reading may be nornal on these models .(I'm really not shure) note; I read your on the post on the stalling . My car had a dry rotted cracked fuel regulator and pcv hose causing my car to ruin the left rear o2 (tripped code)(my 3.3 car has 4 o2's !)and used lots of fuel with bad drivability . I also had a corroded speed sensor connector tripping a fault code .

sassee
03-14-2005, 06:35 AM
Thanks for the info. I checked the fuel regulator and it was within specs, although just barely! I may go back and recheck. I'm probably going to start over and recheck everything just to make sure I didn't miss something the first time.

1thunder
03-16-2005, 08:51 PM
you must check your amp draw should not exceed
.0035 milliamps or 35 thousands of an amp everything off all doors closed key off for at least 20 minutes to leave all controllers go to sleep that is how to check your draw

sassee
03-19-2005, 08:20 PM
Well whats up Thunder? Any other thoughts on the "no-go" Intrepid? Since you're convinced it's tranny, what specifically tells you that? I don't mind replacing it, I just don't want to replace it and still have a problem. I thought the things I checked on tranny before ruled it out. Did I misunderstand something?

1thunder
03-20-2005, 03:25 PM
Hey there sasse did you not raise vehicle wheels off the ground and spin the wheels and it did not quit but had alot of noise try it again or raise vehicle then shift into reverse jump starter relay do wheels turn when cranking for a bit

sassee
03-20-2005, 07:40 PM
Yes, I had front-end off ground and put in gear. It spun without dying but it had lots of noise. (did die when i applied brakes) Also, the spinning was kinda jerky. Your thoughts were it was going into 2 gears at once, we had to determine whether electrical or mechanical. I disconnected electrical connector and jumped relay to start, still died. I can push car in gear forward and backward but you felt that wasn't definitive due to no pressures. This is where we left off, I'm looking for something tangible to lead me in next course of action, even if it's a tranny! I just want to be reasonably certain since, afterall, I've already spent ton of money on sensors, relays, and shift control solenoid.

Although I worked as a mechanic at Chevy dealership when I was in college, that was a long time ago. Cars have changed dramatically. Tell me what you see in these checks, I don't understand.

Now, I'm confused about what your last post intended. Are you wanting me to attempt to start car in reverse? If so, what do I need to do to start it? What jumpers.? Same as time before...30 & 87? If wheels do turn a bit, does what does this indicate? Like I said, I know a lot about older cars but new ones can kick my butt! You gotta draw it for me in crayon so I understand.

Again, Thank you for your help in the past. I hope you can continue to help until I get this thing back on the road. I may sell it or keep and use as a commuter. I gave my daughter my Toyota 4x4 ( I think that is what she wanted anyway) I could commute in this car since it is a really good runner (when it runs!!!)

1thunder
03-20-2005, 09:05 PM
yes jump 30 & 87 with wheels off the ground and crank for about 10-15 seconds and see if wheels turn or attempt to i was trying to determine if this was electrical or mechanical but seems mechanical to me after disconnecting electrical connectors and no difference the noise you hear when the wheels are off the ground and spinning is no doubt your traction control seeing a wheel spin because your back wheels are not turning and remember if the vehicle does not stall when turning or spinning wheels off the ground and quits when trying to stop
them with the brakes indicates trans or torque problems all you are doing is trying to make your torque slip or stall when doing this if the torque stall speed is faulty then your vehicle will quit every time you engage the trans check out the above diagnistics again to reconfirm this now there may be some pressure tests with trans oil pressure
tester you can perform to help but i'm not sure exacly what pressures and ports to check and what values should be now at least raise vehicle and jump starter relay in reverse and crank for about 10-15 seconds see if wheels turn

1thunder
03-21-2005, 06:24 AM
Oh and by the way ask freaky what bulletin# to perform on your pcm or tcm i cannot find anything on my chrysler database with this problem i have access to all bulletins at work or at home and i have searched everywhere

theFREAKnasty82
03-21-2005, 10:46 AM
If I put the wrong TSB #, I apologize, I AM human, here's where you can look that up: http://www.alldata.com/TSB/16/95162140.html

sassee
03-21-2005, 11:09 AM
Look guys, Save the personal jabs! I AM THE ONE WITH THE PIECE OF CRAP INTREPID! I'll work thru BOTH schools of thought until this matter is resolved! The whole idea of using different threads was so I could keep both of you seperate!!! REMEMBER, I AM THE ONE THAT ASKED FOR HELP!!! If I need to communicate with the two of you by PM or email, that's fine. Stop pissing each other off! I AM THE ONE WITH CAR PROBLEMS. I am the one that looses out when both of you start the quiet treatment!!! Thunder, I truly respect your 30 years of experience......that is the reason why I asked you again. But, my car IS STILL IN THE DRIVEWAY! I'll try your last suggestion tonight when I get home!

sassee
03-21-2005, 05:36 PM
OK.........Jacked-up front end. STARTER RELAY PULLED, KEY ON, IN REVERSE. Jumped terminals 30 & 87. Old car runs so darn good, it fired up on first revolution and , naturally, tires spun then. I disconnected cam sensor just so I could get some starter action with-out engine starting. Wheels WERE SPINNING with engine cranking over. Put trans in drive and same thing. (And by the way, when it cranked the first time, wheels were turning but that same weird noise, similar to a pager Vibrating on the dresser! It died when i hit the brake...imagine that!)

With the wheels turning with starter turning engine, is this definitive that torque convertor bad? Some thing else in tranny bad? Car's possessed by the devil? What?

1thunder
03-21-2005, 06:25 PM
sasse i'm 98% sure you have trans issue i went over everything again then discussed it with our trans expert with 32 years experience and both agree trans is problem now attempting to turn engine over thinking it would be jamed up as though
it was a manual trans withbad slave cylinder is not valid test we went through all books on trans and this could not happen without pressure to clutches now unless i have the vehicle and i'm reading the scan tool this is the best i can do but i'm still 95% sure trans is problem and i't mechanical oh and i was thinking of a Chrysler bulletin # not All data freaky you don't have access to Chrysler bulletins and you work at the dealer????

sassee
03-21-2005, 06:56 PM
Well....I'm getting warmer! Is it TRANNY or TORQUE CONVERTOR! Like I said before, tranny shifted and ran fine right up until it started this crap. No chunkage in tranny pan, no burnt fluid. Is it just bad convertor???

1thunder
03-21-2005, 08:21 PM
like i said before if you go through the trouble of removing trans you may as well rebuild it seals inside will have some wear and must check annulus gear assy for wear in pins and so on valves in valve body must be checked for wear and those little balls in valve body do deterorate how many miles on unit?? if it was my car it would be a rebuild

sassee
03-22-2005, 08:52 AM
This one has 150K on it. I'm currently looking at a used one from a tranny shop with low miles and a torque convertor with it. If it's cheap enough to buy and ship, I'll may proceed with that. The used tranny does have some warranty on it. If that truly is the problem, I'll see how used tranny functions. If I keep car, I may have original unit rebuilt and put it back in.

BUT MOST OF ALL............YOU'RE RELATIVELY CERTAIN THIS IS THE PROBLEM? I realize you can't be 100% without checking car yourself but you followed everything I checked out so far! I've always said I have no problem R & R tranny, I just want some kind of assurance that was problem and not just throwing more $$$$ at it.

Ernie

sassee
03-22-2005, 02:41 PM
Anything tricky about removal of tranny???

1thunder
03-22-2005, 06:35 PM
well if you don't have a hoist you may find it a little difficult you have to remove axles and if they don't want to come out of your spindles or axle splines just mark you bolt position at struts and remove both bolts going through struts and the lower balljoint pinch bolt then pry axle out af trans and remove complete axle & knuckle assy together then remove exhaust hangers and complete exhaust all in one piece then start removing cross member and starter then torque bolts and trans bolts this is the way we do it here seems to be easiest way and fastest way my brother in law owns a trans shop and they also remove the same way

sassee
03-22-2005, 09:23 PM
Oh Great!!! Wouldn't lifting the body off be easier??? Man what happened to the good ole days of wasted space in a chassis? now it's "let's cram more stuff in a smaller space" I only THOUGHT this car was pissing me off before!

1thunder
03-23-2005, 05:32 PM
Well you asked for tips so here they are { if it was easy anybody can do it } wouldn't need techs to do these dirty jobs

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