S10 Blazer 96 Transmission?

Before I replace the transmission I was wondering if someone can confirm this.

S10 BLAZER 96 automatic transmission, drives and shifts well 1 and 2nd.
When it shifts to 3rd it slips and the engine over revs over 3,000 rpm and pretty much loses it. I have to slow down or pull over to have it engage again from 1st. It appears the high gears are not engaging.

The fluid was low, but I filled it and it is still doing this. I don't smell burnt oil.

Is the transmission trashed?

thanks,

Before I replace the transmission I was wondering if someone can confirm this.

S10 BLAZER 96 automatic transmission, drives and shifts well 1 and 2nd.
When it shifts to 3rd it slips and the engine over revs over 3,000 rpm and pretty much loses it. I have to slow down or pull over to have it engage again from 1st. It appears the high gears are not engaging.

The fluid was low, but I filled it and it is still doing this. I don't smell burnt oil.

Is the transmission trashed?

thanks,

Before you spend the bucks to replace it, have the tranny flushed and the fluid and filter changed. It might correct the problem w/out spending a fortune for a new or rebuilt tranny. :2cents:

Before I replace the transmission I was wondering if someone can confirm this.

S10 BLAZER 96 automatic transmission, drives and shifts well 1 and 2nd.
When it shifts to 3rd it slips and the engine over revs over 3,000 rpm and pretty much loses it. I have to slow down or pull over to have it engage again from 1st. It appears the high gears are not engaging.

The fluid was low, but I filled it and it is still doing this. I don't smell burnt oil.

Is the transmission trashed?

thanks,

do search to look at others transmission problems. You might just have a solenoid sticking.

I am not familiar with the solenoid. I assume this is inside the transmission?

yes, do a search bro.

There are several threads on transmission problems.

Well the valve body's for those years (95-97) are prone to failure and yours has the symptoms... For giggles I would grab a later year (98+) valve body from a garage and try throwing it in... At worst it doesn't work but you still have the newer valve body for the rebuild. At best it works..:) You shouldn't pay more than 50 bux for it at most junk yards. Just remember before putting it in, spray liberally with brake klean (good solvent and doesn't leave a film)..

I had a similar problem on a '96 Blazer. After 70K miles 2nd going into 3rd gear on the automatic transmission was slipping. Check GM Bulletin Number 66-71-03A. The cause may be "poor internal ground between the two circuit baords of the VCM can cause the VCM to command erratic line pressure at the pressure control solenoid."

Basically, the control solenoid wasn't working correctly due to grounding issues and it caused the bands to slip, thus trashing my transmission.

If I were you, whether this is the cause of your problem or not, install the "Harness jumper wire and instruction kit P/N 12167310". It's a little jumper wire installed on the computer right under the hood. When you re-build your transmission you will want this fix or it may happen again. The kit costs about $10. If the jumper is already installed you should see a tag around the VCM wiring harness. I only wish my dealership at the time told me this. It would have been a small price to pay if I only would have known at the time.

If memory serves me correctly, I believe the manufacturer corrected this problem at the assembly line in March or April of 1996. I believe this problem existed since the transmission was put into production in 1995.

I had a similar problem on a '96 Blazer. After 70K miles 2nd going into 3rd gear on the automatic transmission was slipping. Check GM Bulletin Number 66-71-03A. The cause may be "poor internal ground between the two circuit baords of the VCM can cause the VCM to command erratic line pressure at the pressure control solenoid."

Basically, the control solenoid wasn't working correctly due to grounding issues and it caused the bands to slip, thus trashing my transmission.

If I were you, whether this is the cause of your problem or not, install the "Harness jumper wire and instruction kit P/N 12167310". It's a little jumper wire installed on the computer right under the hood. When you re-build your transmission you will want this fix or it may happen again. The kit costs about $10. If the jumper is already installed you should see a tag around the VCM wiring harness. I only wish my dealership at the time told me this. It would have been a small price to pay if I only would have known at the time.

If memory serves me correctly, I believe the manufacturer corrected this problem at the assembly line in March or April of 1996. I believe this problem existed since the transmission was put into production in 1995.


Is this something someone should do for preventatve maintenance?

No, it just happenes to some transmissions. For prevntative maintenace, simple fluid and filter changes to your transmissions will be fine.

The bulletin applies for models 1996 Chevrolet and GMC c/k, s/t, m/l, G1, G2, P3 models, 1996 oldsmobile bravada with VCM and 4L60-E (M30)or 4L80-E (MT1) automatic transmissions.

If this sounds like you above, then it would be preventitive maintenance. If the transmission is already slipping, the damage probably has already started. But at least the solenoid will have a better chance operating correctly.

So should I do it?

I've cracked the ecu open before (I love how it's mounted on the coolant reservoir) do I just add a harness in there or something?

So should I do it?

I've cracked the ecu open before (I love how it's mounted on the coolant reservoir) do I just add a harness in there or something?

What...the...hell......

You on crack or something?

What...the...hell......

You on crack or something?


What do you mean? I just took it out when I did the wiring for my overhead console. I carefully cleaned it because there was coolant on it.

What do you mean? I just took it out when I did the wiring for my overhead console. I carefully cleaned it because there was coolant on it.

I thought you meant you cracked open the actual computer.

What do you mean? I just took it out when I did the wiring for my overhead console. I carefully cleaned it because there was coolant on it.


When I clean mine I usually just spray it down with purple power, scrub it with a toothbrush in the grooves, hose it lightly down with the garden hose sprayer, let it dry while I'm working on other stuff, then throw it back in (just make sure the connectors are dry, you won't get anything inside of it, they're sealed like hell. Took me forever to get those things open. (yes, I actually opened some to check the chips)

When I clean mine I usually just spray it down with purple power, scrub it with a toothbrush in the grooves, hose it lightly down with the garden hose sprayer, let it dry while I'm working on other stuff, then throw it back in (just make sure the connectors are dry, you won't get anything inside of it, they're sealed like hell. Took me forever to get those things open. (yes, I actually opened some to check the chips)

water + electronics + assumption that everything is perfectly sealed + nOOb = disaster

not hardly.. those things are pretty well sealed, if they weren't the least little bit of condensation would kill them.

not hardly.. those things are pretty well sealed, if they weren't the least little bit of condensation would kill them.

lol, I just can see someone reading it and pressure washing it. :lol:

Hi

I just wanted to see if you found the fix for this problem? I posted the exact same problem in another thread yesterday.

Ryan

Another thing and it is in one drum,5 black springs.Throw them away and most aftermarket companies say this.They restrict the clutches from floating,burns up one clutch and will burn up the rest.I see them and throw them away which the clutches work a lot better.

Hi

I just wanted to see if you found the fix for this problem? I posted the exact same problem in another thread yesterday.

Ryan
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